What have you done to your DEFENDER today?

IMG_2704.jpeg
 

jymmiejamz

0
Callsign: KN4JHI
I flew to Las Vegas on Wednesday morning and went directly to my storage unit to replace the steering pump in my 110 which had fallen apart on a trip back in May. There were definitely some challenges like getting the shreds of old belt off and also removing the fan with no fan tools and no belt. Once the fan was off, the repair went smoothly. The next morning my wife and son met me and we spent the night on the strip. Everything was great, running at normal temps with the AC on with it being 98F outside.

The next morning we headed to Hurricane, UT to meet some friends for some camping and four wheeling. I noticed my temp moved just barely above the middle at a stoplight, so I knew something was wrong. My fan clutch had failed. Fortunately we had a few hours to kill while waiting for the group to arrive, so I ran to a hardware store and got shop small screws to force the fan clutch to stay locked. Just finished the trip with plenty of off road miles with the AC on, so everything worked out.

I'm definitely going to be having Ron Davis build me a radiator with an electric fan.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Finally got around to sealing the lower tub to side joint with Dum-Dum. I use 3M strip caulk, rubbing alcohol and my finger tips along with painters tape. I first clean the area with weather, then rubbing alcohol, tape the lines with painters tape and then push the caulk in with my finger tips— very hard and as deep as it will go, making the residual on the tape either super thing or barely there. I then peel the tape and clean up with alcohol on a paper towel.
IMG_5714.jpeg

IMG_5715.jpeg

IMG_5713.jpeg

IMG_5716.jpeg

IMG_5712.jpeg

I try and make it as clean and minimally visible as possible. Clean lines. I also put extra in the gap between the seals on the sides at the rear door and cover that with a piece of gorilla tape— which is common practice. Forgot a pic, but that is easy to search for.
 

gerken

Active member
Engine is installed, fired up. I upgraded the injectors to 2.8 spec nozzles and installed a boost pin, both from from Valtech. Billet turbo, rebuilt FIP, Airtec intercooler, Wolf radiator from RN, 2.5" straight exhaust from Demand.

Holy shit it's a completely new vehicle. It feels incredible, and I'm only gingerly driving as I warm it all up.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20241101_181815290.jpg
    PXL_20241101_181815290.jpg
    222 KB · Views: 63
I put it away for the Winter.

And hid the kids Christmas presents under it. I was also able to fit the Bronco soft top under it. Just barely. Thankful that that heavy thing is out of the way.
 
Detailed interior of my truck with my leaf blower. It was a good break from using it as a leaf blower.
Wife just shook her head.
Lol. I started doing this this year as well. Darn Beagle hair gets everywhere. I do not think I will ever desire to have carpet in any of my vehicles again.
 

Priapus

Well-known member
I put it away for the Winter.

And hid the kids Christmas presents under it. I was also able to fit the Bronco soft top under it. Just barely. Thankful that that heavy thing is out of the way.
Hope your kids like presents covered in engine, transmission, transfer case and differential oil!
 
Noticed it had been running rough the last few times. So had a home day to run through the ignition. Plugs good plug wires, well they are 2-3 years old and but still seem good....Plug wires to Dizzy was a problem. Discovered one wire had unplugged itself....So I had a 3.5 liter V7. Starts and runs a bunch more smoothly now. Even in the pouring rain. Yes after months of no rain we have plenty of it for the next few days.
 

Priapus

Well-known member
The engine is still running badly in my 300tdi, and inferring that part of the problem must be bad valve seals and possibly a cracked or warped head or bad head gasket, I spent the last six hours removing what is apparently one of the only parts on this truck that isn’t that bad.

IMG_5519.jpeg


The head gasket seems fine, exhaust manifold gasket seems fine, no cracks in the head that I can tell, and the pistons all look good too. I used a straight edge and the head seems pretty straight.

You can see one coolant passage in the block that is plugged with stop leak, which was very satisfying to remove.

IMG_5520.jpeg


IMG_5526.jpeg


IMG_5525.jpeg


There is some corrosion on it, but I’m not worried as I have a new Turner ported head ready to install tomorrow.

IMG_5506.jpeg


These glow plugs and injectors are brand new with less than 500 miles on them. They’re filthy and covered in oil and soot, so something is obviously wrong.

Is it normal for there to be this much oil on the top of the head?

IMG_5514.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Priapus

Well-known member
I cleaned up the block and to my eye the bores look pretty ratty. I guess this would explain the crankcase pressure, white smoke, fouling of injectors and overall lack of power?

The plan now is to do a low effort rebuild in place: hone, new rings and rod bearings. If it doesn’t do the trick, oh well, I’ll pull the engine for a proper rebuild in the spring if necessary.

IMG_5543.jpeg

IMG_5550.jpeg
 

Priapus

Well-known member
IMG_5576.jpeg
IMG_5578.jpeg


Well I’m reluctantly glad that I took things this far. All the rod bearings are on their last legs with significant copper showing, and two of the pistons have a broken bottom ring.
 

Priapus

Well-known member
How did the valve seals look? Should definitely run better after rectifying the issues you found.
I’m not sure how to tell. Is there an easy way?

There won’t be much progress today, but I got the rings off each piston and cleaned up the lands. One strange thing was the #4 piston, which has “20” written in the con rod and then some sort of scrawl where I would expect to see the number 4. I wonder if this has been worked on before.

IMG_5587.jpeg


IMG_5588.jpeg


Also I seem to have broken the wiring that goes to the coolant temp sensor on the thermostat housing. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement connector? I can’t seem to find this on any parts diagram.

IMG_5585.jpeg
 
I’m not sure how to tell. Is there an easy way?

There won’t be much progress today, but I got the rings off each piston and cleaned up the lands. One strange thing was the #4 piston, which has “20” written in the con rod and then some sort of scrawl where I would expect to see the number 4. I wonder if this has been worked on before.

View attachment 31354

View attachment 31355

Also I seem to have broken the wiring that goes to the coolant temp sensor on the thermostat housing. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement connector? I can’t seem to find this on any parts diagram.

View attachment 31356

Valve seals should be fully seated down, and not hard, cracked or loose in any way. You wouldn't be the first to struggle with them.

My 200Tdi has a spade connector on the temp sensor and harness. Maybe yours is earlier. Is it that sensor-side connector emulating a 4.7mm (diameter) Lucas bullet connector?
 
I’m not sure how to tell. Is there an easy way?

There won’t be much progress today, but I got the rings off each piston and cleaned up the lands. One strange thing was the #4 piston, which has “20” written in the con rod and then some sort of scrawl where I would expect to see the number 4. I wonder if this has been worked on before.

View attachment 31354

View attachment 31355

Also I seem to have broken the wiring that goes to the coolant temp sensor on the thermostat housing. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement connector? I can’t seem to find this on any parts diagram.

View attachment 31356

Temp sensor plug… I believe it is the standard female bullet connector on Series trucks and most anything BL made back in the day.
 
Top