VDO Gauge Guide

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Is it normal for a VDO light bulbs to burn out after 10k miles?

I am pulling part of my dash part in hopes that it really is only the bulb.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
The bulb didn't look burned out, but I think it must have been the bulb. All others are fine. Luckily, this is the one instrument I can reach by taking off the side vent panel. And luckily I had another bulb that was unused in the warning light for the choke. Gave me a chance to hook up my side vent and rebuild the vent louver as well. I just need two more of those unicorns to have a full set!
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Wanted to update this thread. With the demise of Egauges its a tad more annoying to get VDO units. Jegs and Summit have them but the pricing is high and they add $5-15 for putting items in a box outside of shipping charges.

As Doug said above Lauderdale Speedo is great along with NSI Fleet for options on getting VDO units. They both offer programming the speedo to your mileage . I find working with Lauderdale easier and they tend to have more sensible shipping charges.
 

Rh32

Member
Anyone have any luck with a sender for a VDO temp gauge on a 12L 200 TDI (from a Disco)? Mine gauge registers hotter than infrared readings indicate. Multiple experts suspect it's the sender, and shop of previous owner tried various senders. Just curious if anyone has had any luck with a specific sender on this specific engine. If so I'll just buy it and try it.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
id try running a fresh wire to the gauge direct from the VDO sender? maybe the stock wiring is corroded or has some resistance issues.
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Give the temperature gage its own ground. Separate and distinct from the other instruments, fan control, headlights etc. Took me a while to realize that everytime I put the fan on, it was worth 10plus degrees. Headlights, another ten.....
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor

Great post on setting the tach dip switches.


EDIT: to really dial it in you need a cheap laser reference tachometer about $20 on amzn
 
Last edited:

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
so are these needed or would they already be installed?

I built my own harness from the speed sensor/plug. Works great, and it really must be an easier way than having to deal with the spinning cable. If you don't have the gauge(s) already in hand, and are like me, you will find that once you are actually holding the gauge, looking at the back of it, it will all become clear. It's an easy switch to the electronic speed sensor.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
As noted above I also just snapped off a oil pressure adapter in the housing. I got mine from Matt lewis racing and the quality was pretty poor, the threaded nipple almost seemed like it was made from a cast material. I just received one I ordered via amzn and It looks much better. SS, machined and much much thicker on the neck of the thread that inserts into the housing.


it does however have some machining swarf left over so i twill need to be cleaned out.
 

Mdubs

Well-known member
Ran into a problem with gauge install by Doug. I need the correct sender for a 350-104 Oil Px sender. It’s going into a 3.5 V8. The one that came with the gauge isn’t working. Can anyone help out with the correct part number? Lauderdale Speedo guy seems to think it’s the 360-003. He said it’s not metric, it’s 1/8th NPT.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
I don't have a problem.

 

Mdubs

Well-known member
Just want to clarify:

At no point did I intend to infer that my experience with Doug and this install has been anything but great. Re-reading my post above I can see how it puts Doug in a negative light. This was NOT my intention at all. Doug has been superb with all of the work I’ve asked him to do. He was patient waiting for me to get the money together and stored the engine for free. I honestly could not recommend him more. I knew that I was getting top quality work and he helped me using parts I provided, which I know many shops will not do.

My poorly written post was just trying to get some help with a part number that Doug asked me to order so he could finish my truck. I shouldn’t have mentioned his name in that post at all.

Publicly want to apologize to Doug for any grief that my post has produced. I have nothing but good things to say about my dealings with him so far, both personally and professionally. Again I am sorry.
 

Mdubs

Well-known member
One more point as I think about this. The “problem” I was referring to was MY inability to find the correct part number. I looked though a couple of forums and was unable to figure out the part I needed.

At no point have I had any “problems” with Doug or his work. Quite the opposite.

I feel bad that my post involved Doug and his business. Again I apologize.
 
Last edited:

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
That makes 6/8 wire (signal wire) red on the brake connector. I was mainly confused if the + (POS) was 6/8, or if signal.

black = POS, speedo pin 2
green = ground, and/or speedo pin 3
red = signal, speedo pins 6/8

As you can see, I took my chances with the Amazon version of the sensor.
13fda143b19d1ce82b0bf444928a1636.jpg

I want to confirm this as correct wiring as I finished it tonight:
black = POS, speedo pin 2
green = ground, and/or speedo pin 3
red = signal, speedo pins 6/8

I also want to confirm the suitability of the aftermarket amazon cheap (relatively) $50 Odometer Sensor YBE100530 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3PGXQJ/?coliid=I2FNRL01MMHAPO&colid=3NIOO8TT3SMV2&psc=1
 

MacKai

Member

Attachments

  • 20200122_164708.jpg
    20200122_164708.jpg
    896.4 KB · Views: 297
  • 20200122_164718.jpg
    20200122_164718.jpg
    837.4 KB · Views: 258
  • 20200122_164714.jpg
    20200122_164714.jpg
    805.1 KB · Views: 262
Top