Value of D1 vs just axles for D90 swap

[WreckITFrank]

Found a 1998 D1 for sale in town, at a decent price. No specific info yet, but I'll look at it when available. Generally, is there value in the whole thing if I'm only after the axles? Anything else of value in regard to a defender? Thanks.

 

[donb]

Besides the axles
- wheels
- steering box and steering components for LHD conversions (I like the Disco ball joint vs the Defender drop arm set up)
- suspension components (refinish and swap with your components)
- LT230 - if you need a 1.2 gear ratio
- engine and transmission and components could be sold on if they are decent
- some of the wiring and wiring connectors could probably be used


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[rocky]

Don’t forget to keep the ecu/wiring as well as headers Inc oxygen sensors, expansion tank, fan shroud, pas reservoir etc

 

[WreckITFrank]

Thanks, that makes the decision easier if it works out. Just have to find the space to store it and break it down.

 

[AdamSanta85]

When I did this with a D1 for axles I was able to get $300 for the catalytic converters at the junk yard. If you can get the truck for $1k or less you can most likely get all your money back if you are willing to hustle.

 

[1of40]

Keep us posted if you go down this route and have time to part and sell parts. I have two kids driving D1’s and know there are parts they’ve been thinking of looking for or buying as tbd spares for safe keeping.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I would highly recommend you drive it around for a little bit to test everything. At a minimum let it idle for an hour to see if it overheats. The block is probably worth $500 if it is good.

 

[RBBailey]

I bought this for $2000.

Runs smoother and quieter, and is cleaner than any of the 10 Rovers I've owned. It's a time warp to the 1990s.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bhcmbailey/albums/72157665294215798

Just make sure you're not pulling something apart that is still good!

 

[WreckITFrank]

It's cheap, under $1000 and does run but needs some work. He has a few discos but I think got hosed from the PO for title on this one. I'm only after the swappable stuff and if I can get a spot in my buddy's barn, I'll be happy to part it out. Appreciate all the info. I'll let you know how the visit goes.

 

[Red90]

What are you hoping to "gain" from changing to Disco axles?

 

[WreckITFrank]

Mainly for disc brake conversion, and vented up front. Wasn't the highest priority but this is literally a few blocks away.

What are you hoping to "gain" from changing to Disco axles?

 

[Red90]

Okay. As long as you understand they are weaker. It might matter if you off road it.

Also the Disco uses smaller pistons on the front brakes, so braking will be worse.

 

[WreckITFrank]

Okay. As long as you understand they are weaker. It might matter if you off road it.

Also the Disco uses smaller pistons on the front brakes, so braking will be worse.

Yes Sir, I appreciate the heads up. I was running through the threads trying to figure out the best way to get discs, and most come back to just an axle swap. I'll check it out regardless, but something to think about. Not going to be thrashing off road, but not into downgrades either.

 

[Red90]

What makes you want discs? The drums have more braking ability. I can't see any reason for vented rotors on a 90.

I'm not sure what year is the 90, but make sure it has the larger piston calipers. Some early ones did not.

 

[WreckITFrank]

What makes you want discs? The drums have more braking ability. I can't see any reason for vented rotors on a 90.

I'm not sure what year is the 90, but make sure it has the larger piston calipers. Some early ones did not.

drums and seals need attention, not terribly expensive but figured it worth an upgrade if going through the work.

 

[Jeff B]

What makes you want discs? The drums have more braking ability. I can't see any reason for vented rotors on a 90.

true.


In fact, as I understand it, most auto manufacturers will be returning to drums...






.

 

[Red90]

I'm comparing the drum size used on the 90 versus the discs. The drums brake harder. This is why they use a bias valve with the drums, but not the discs. The only real advantage is they work a little better wet. It is really a change for change sake.

Cars changed to discs as they offer better heat dissipation, not better braking. This is not a concern on a rear axle.

If you have an old 90 and want better braking, make sure you have the larger front piston calipers and change to the larger, later style booster.

The Disco axles have some important downgrades. The hub bearings are closer together and this seems to cause real issues with them staying adjusted. The front halfshafts and this CVs are much smaller than 10 spline, so it gives you a weaker front axle. The wider radius arms have less articulation. Make sure that you at least change out the triple shell bushings for two shell ones.

On the plus side, parts are bit easier to source.

 

[WreckITFrank]

Appreciate all the responses, as I have learned quite a bit in the past few days regarding D1's, and Defender 90 axles.

For understanding sake, I have a few more questions. Red answered most and gave me some understanding on strength and tradeoffs, but it seems like 24 is the way to go if you plan on doing upgrades later? (which I am not really interested in as of now) This is not really brake related, but more questions regarding future proofing.

1. Are folks enticed to go with 24 spline because they are newer, and more upgrades are available? Lockers, Aftermarket Axles, parts availability?

2. Are there some 24 spline axles that are indeed stronger than the 10 spline from factory?

3. Is it simply opinion of different shops/forums on one over another regarding an upgrade?

Google allowed me to become more confused,seems like every forum covers this question one way or another...here are two articles elsewhere not forum based.

ECR 24 spline upgrade article

Ashcroft test

 

[AdamSanta85]

I am happy with my Disco axle swap. I gained rear disc brakes, vented bigger piston front brakes (my donor truck had the better caliper setup on it already), sway bars, the ability to run whatever wheel I want with center caps, the longer wheel studs, and the ease of getting parts locally if need be (junkyard axles), ease of getting spare parts in future (they used 24 spline till 2015 no?) and never having to work on drum brakes again.

That being said, my truck isn't a wheeling rig

 

[Red90]

1. Are folks enticed to go with 24 spline because they are newer, and more upgrades are available? Lockers, Aftermarket Axles, parts availability?

2. Are there some 24 spline axles that are indeed stronger than the 10 spline from factory?

In the late model Rover axles, the 24 spline shafts are waisted to the same size as the 10 spline shafts, so they are the same strength. Early model 24 spline and Salisbury 24 spline are not waisted and are stronger.

When building up, none of it matters, because the diff and the halfshafts need to be changed. The one benefit of the early axles, is that you can keep the stock CVs as they are fairly decent. The late model CVs must be changed.

10 spline half shaft

Disco 24 spline halfshaft