V8 Manual - clutch problem, gears wont engage with engine running

[rocky]

They don't cure themselves. At worst you'll jump in to use it and the pedal is on the floor with the UPS guy knocking at your door with the parts you need to fix it.

 

[rlynch356]

the Normal masters (proline/genuine etc) are Aluminum on Aluminum design. which is why they wear out so fast and leak. you might get lucky or repeat my experience with doing it a couple of time (really not bad after the first time I promise)


for future reference here is the Dorman conversion https://www.seriesdefender.com/mechanical/clutch-master-cylinder.html

 

[abruzzano]

Update 2,

after sitting in the driveway yesterday, had to pump the clutch again to build up pressure and get her moved again. Glad the parts are on order. If anyone has any good links for tips on changing a LHD master/slave I'll be happy to take those. Thanks!

 

[Napalm00]

1. Prepare to be frustrated.
2. Buy booze
3. Follow repair manual
4. Drink 3-5 hours later

 

[abruzzano]

So I thought I'd add some pictures for the next guy that goes down this journey.

Beyond the master and slave cylinders, I'd recommend you order:
Reference parts
Gasket
Two bolts
Two washers
Two nuts
for the slave
Gasket

For about $10 you'll have some key components.

Now, for where I'm stuck and need help. Below are the pictures showing my progress, but I can't get the clutch/pedal assembly out because the brake servo assembly is in the way. I have unbolted the servo from the support mount, as well as removed the two springs that attach it to the pedal, but I just can't create enough room to get the clutch pedal and master rotated and out. Picture 9 is where I stopped for today - hoping to get some guidance from you all.

Thanks!

 

[JimC]

This was me last time I did it. Just pull the fender skin and make life easier for yourself. Yes, you have to take out all those plastic rivets for the fender flare and fiddle with all the bolts attaching the skin, but I think this is far superior to the alternative which is unbolting the brake tower and kind of just pushing it around to get clearance. Not only does that bother me for being imprecise and unscientific, I don’t relish the idea of breaking a brake line and dead lining the truck for another reason.

 

[Napalm00]

you know its a shit job if you can bring up a pic of last time YOU did it

 

[abruzzano]

Day 3, the journey continues... disconnected brake pedal form brake servo... getting closer and closer to a more permanent paper weight if I'm not careful.

How do I clean all the gunk (some type of sealant?) off of the pedal? Do people take the pedal box to get sand blasted?

I'm wearing flip flops while I do this. Any recommendations on proper foot attire during vehicle maintenance?

 

[erover82]

Day 3, the journey continues... disconnected brake pedal form brake servo... getting closer and closer to a more permanent paper weight if I'm not careful.

How do I clean all the gunk (some type of sealant?) off of the pedal? Do people take the pedal box to get sand blasted?

I'm wearing flip flops while I do this. Any recommendations on proper foot attire during vehicle maintenance?

Oven cleaner, and not the tree hugger eco-friendly kind.

 

[erover82]

This was me last time I did it. Just pull the fender skin and make life easier for yourself. Yes, you have to take out all those plastic rivets for the fender flare and fiddle with all the bolts attaching the skin, but I think this is far superior to the alternative which is unbolting the brake tower and kind of just pushing it around to get clearance. Not only does that bother me for being imprecise and unscientific, I don’t relish the idea of breaking a brake line and dead lining the truck for another reason.

View attachment 14460

Never knew I needed a mechanic's umbrella in my toolbox until today.

 

[JimC]

Never knew I needed a mechanic's umbrella in my toolbox until today.

Did the job in like 100 degree heat, my buddy felt sorry for me...

 

[JimC]

Oven cleaner, and not the tree hugger eco-friendly kind.

just get a 6-pack of spray carb cleaner down at the auto parts store.

 

[abruzzano]

Update. Received the bell housing gasket so time to replace the slave while waiting for the pedal box to be sand blasted.

I found it surprising that the slave itself has no threads in it.

definitely recommend removing theClutch pipe flex with an 11mm socket. Here is what I used.

one end of the pipe assembly is oxidized. Any recommendations on how to clean it? Will steel wool ruin the threads?

Thanks!

 

[lcdck]

Flare nut wrenches should be used on the pipe line. Looks a little rounded off in the picture. Hit it with a wire brush, by hand, and it will clean up okay. Be very careful not to cross thread it going back in. It happens pretty easily. Same for the two bolts holding the slave to bell housing.

 

[abruzzano]

Could use some suggestions on how to line up this metal line with the slave cylinder.

 

[lcdck]

I have connected the line close to snug while the slave cylinder is off, then installed slave cylinder to bell housing and snugged up the line. Make sure the rod seats correctly in the slave cylinder. Last time I did it this I found I had very good access from above and spent less time on the ground on my back but I have long arms.

 

[abruzzano]

@lcdck

I have connected the line close to snug while the slave cylinder is off

That's brilliant. I just ordered a new line - hoping to prevent a future leak. Examining the threads closely there were some weird "cuts extending across the threads. Appreciate the recommendation.

I saw flare nut wrenches today, but not sure what they are for... they just seemed like open wrenches to me, but I know I'm missing something.

Thank you.

 

[lcdck]

They are more closed than open end wrenches and touch the nut on all but 1 corner. They’re specifically designed for this kind of thing.

 

[abruzzano]

Hey guys - I can’t seem to get this fitting undone ... its the clutch line from slave to master. The Dorman clutch comes with a new line I want to use.

besides cutting the line and putting a socket onto it, any idea? Honestly I can’t even get a 14mm flare nut wrench, and the 15mm is a little loose. The bracket is too flexible and moves when I try and twist anything. Oh, the threaded washer under the fitting is loosened, but I can’t get the underside of it undone.

thanks.

“Desperate in Omaha”

 

[Roverman2010]

Do you really need that if you have the flex hose?