V8 Manual - clutch problem, gears wont engage with engine running

abruzzano

Well-known member
Well, I'm glad I was able to make my 700 mile drive after purchasing, and before this happened.

Hopped in my '89 Defender 110 LHD (do I need to say Defender in this forum?) for a quick ride. She started up with no issue, but when I tried to move the gear selector into reversed it was grinding. I then tried first gear, but it won't go into gear. As a matter of fact it won't go into any gear (1-5), but grinds when trying to go into reverse. It goes into all gears fine with the engine shut off.

I searched several forums and, after trying the easy fix of adding some DOT3 brake fluid in case it was dry, it seems like the general answer is: I need a new clutch. Not bad for my first expense considering I've owned this vehicle for less than two weeks now.

I searched the forum here but did not find any similar issues, so I come to you guys looking for some ideas:

1) Do I need a new clutch or am I missing something simple?
2) Who should I take it to (there is a Land Rover dealership in Omaha)
3) Should I order a new clutch assembly Complete kit from Rovers North?
4) Since this is a huge project, are there other parts that should be replaced at the same time?
5) Any idea on cost? Should I sell one or both kidneys?
6) Anything else?

Thanks all!
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
You probably don't need a clutch you probably need a new slave or master. If it was fine before and now just isn't working .

Check for leaks on the clutch pedal itself underneath the master and underneath the slave for any kind of wetness.

Super common failure.


if you do end up needing a clutch yes you can buy that kit from Rover's North or you can buy it from any other online sales place. Anything aftermarket is all pretty much the same with the exception of Valeo.

It's a two-day job if you've never done it before a four to five-hour job if you're good at it.

if you do end up replacing a clutch you need to machine your flywheel at a machine shop I think anywhere from 80 to $150 worth of labor

Don't take it to a dealer unless you like getting it hard without any lubricant

You certainly don't have to say defender on this forum.
 

lcdck

Well-known member
Agreed. Sounds like a hydraulic problem. Start with Napalm advise. I paid $30 for my flywheel to be resurfaced this summer. Maybe I got a deal.
 

abruzzano

Well-known member
Thanks guys!

Thoughts if I should try that myself? Have 0 experience on auto maintenance, but willing to learn.

Also, genuine or aftermarket off of Rover North?
 

rlynch356

Well-known member
replacing the slave is an easy 30 minute job - with a couple more for bleeding it out. Do you have a copy of RAVE

here is the procedure.
 

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rlynch356

Well-known member
the master is not bad the 2nd time you do it - getting the pedal out takes some time as is a twist and pull jigsaw puzzle the first time. I would highly recommend doing the SDO Norman upgrade on the master cylinder
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Agreed if it comes out to be your master your slave it's 100% worth it to convert it over to the dorman style. if you've never wrenched before be prepared to be fucking frustrated as shit but it's totally doable
 

rlynch356

Well-known member
haha.. and if you use britpart masters you can get really good at it like I did, having to do it a total of 3 times in less than a year :) the last one was the SDO Dorman upgrade. The first 2 new ones lasted 1 week and and 2 months respectively.
 

Z.G

Well-known member
Agreed if it comes out to be your master your slave it's 100% worth it to convert it over to the dorman style. if you've never wrenched before be prepared to be fucking frustrated as shit but it's totally doable

Agreed, if you have a LHD truck, the master stuff is obnoxious. I did the Dorman conversion and it was a total PITA(not that it was worse than a normal clutch master)
 

JimC

Super Moderator
Staff member
Order the rubber hose as well, plus the nut to secure it. May as we’ll order the hard
line too unless you’ve already disassembled it and it came apart without self-destructing. The job is easy but it sucks to add a week once you realize you have to replace all the parts.
 

abruzzano

Well-known member
@JimC , not sure what parts you are referring to? Do they connect the slave to the master?

Agreed I'd rather have 1 extra part and return it that not have everything I need. Thanks!
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
@abruzzano
Rubber Hose NRC2211
Hard Line NRC8329
Lock Nut NT604041L

I can't remember who (might be Safari HP in Orlando) but one of the US vendors makes up stainless steel hard lines. Well worth the cost of that upgrade.

Double check the part numbers before you pull the trigger on them.
 

Z.G

Well-known member
If you order the Dorman from SDO he includes a stainless flex line that goes down to your flex hose based on vehicle specification
 

abruzzano

Well-known member
@Z.G Thank you for that - I had seen that name "Dorman" but wasn't sure where to get it. The ProLine is already on it's way - but I think a "next time" is probably a valid answer :)
 
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Z.G

Well-known member
@Z.G Thank you for that - I had seen that name "Dorman" but wasn't sure where to get it. The ProLine is already on it's way - but I think a "next time" is probably a valid answer :)


No worries! I wont be upset that you bought from the company I work for haha
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Just a note to stick in your back pocket.
The hydraulic fluid takes up the wear on the clutch extremely well. Until the clutch pad material is worn out. At that point the clutch will only engage/disengage at the end of its travel.
 

abruzzano

Well-known member
So quick update,

Pumped the clutch 50 times this morning, and it seems to work fine. I'll still replace the master and salve though? I think?
 
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