broncoduecer
Technical Excellence Contributor
It’s been quite the process but I managed to convert my Ashcroft center console to be a latching console. It isn't the prettiest install in the world, I've done better jobs. My trim plate should help you make a cleaner install now that I was the guinea pig. But I wanted people to know that it is possible to get a more factory look with the reproduction consoles that are out there. I was able to find some of the original parts a number of years ago, which like most NAS parts now are harder to get, but I think there are some MG parts that should work for others to try.
Most people converting to auto are using reproduction consoles with a lid like this:
The lid is simply a handle and doesn't secure. One thing that bugged me, was that even if you remove the handle and install a latch, you're still left with the screw holes for the handle that are visible. I used one of our mine design software packages to design this and 3D print it. It's a face plate that has two m4 female thread cylinders on it to fasten the trim plate to the cover through the handle screw holes:
So I hope that this template will make your hole cutting cleaner than mine. The old adage of measure twice cut once definitely applies and I am guilty of just getting in there and I ended up with a plethora of useless holes. So I really wanted to cover the mess at least from the top and here is how it went. This is how my console looked from the top view:
I have a random hole in the top left, ignore that one, don't worry about that little guy...
You will see the box I cut out for the latch assembly to pass through. As I mentioned above, this all worked before I made the trim plate. It just always bothered me to see the screw holes.
To install the trim plate, I drilled out the handle screw holes to a 9/32" hole for the m4 cylinders. If your lid is uncut, you SHOULD be able to use this trim plate as the guide to cutting the lid top. This worked for me, so it should work for you unless something is different in our lids. What you'll be doing here is essentially working top down. Trim plate installed and then mark the lid and cut through:
Next you'll need to start drilling/cutting some holes through the bottom of the lid. This will need to be in steps as there are 4 things to drill through the console lid:
So you need to start with the console latch hole. It's a pretty long hole that needs a long throw back towards the passenger side. The template should give you a good reference when looking top down, because with the latch in you hand you can see and measure how far the lever is from the sides. After you get the latch hole you'll be able to put some paint or anti-seize on the latch areas and see where they land on the bottom lid to know here to drill. In this pic I had just marked the key relief hole with anti-seize. Here are some pics of the holes you need:
Here is an unedited version of the top view, you don't need these ones haha:
View from the bottom:
Then it should like pretty decent when all the holes are drilled and the latch will fully sit down:
Ok but now you're saying this is great but you can't find these parts anymore. So I think these MG/Rover parts will get the job done. The latch is the same P/N, the lock is different from the NAS 90, but this part is supposed to fit with the MG/Rover latch, and it visually appears to be similar and both in stock at rimmerbros:
Also pictured above you need to fashion a striker plate for the latch to grab to. To install this you'll need to drill out the console cubby to accommodate the latch. I was able to close the latch with my striker plate fastened to the cubby bottom before I added the trim plate. Bust since adding the trim plate I ended up adding some washers under the striker plate to get it to latch and all is well.
So it's possible to get your reproduction console lid to latch shut with some patience and lots of back and forth trimming/filing a bit to get it all to fit just right.
Good luck! Happy to answer questions if I can help.
I will also follow up with the stl file for the 3d printer.
Most people converting to auto are using reproduction consoles with a lid like this:
The lid is simply a handle and doesn't secure. One thing that bugged me, was that even if you remove the handle and install a latch, you're still left with the screw holes for the handle that are visible. I used one of our mine design software packages to design this and 3D print it. It's a face plate that has two m4 female thread cylinders on it to fasten the trim plate to the cover through the handle screw holes:
So I hope that this template will make your hole cutting cleaner than mine. The old adage of measure twice cut once definitely applies and I am guilty of just getting in there and I ended up with a plethora of useless holes. So I really wanted to cover the mess at least from the top and here is how it went. This is how my console looked from the top view:
I have a random hole in the top left, ignore that one, don't worry about that little guy...
You will see the box I cut out for the latch assembly to pass through. As I mentioned above, this all worked before I made the trim plate. It just always bothered me to see the screw holes.
To install the trim plate, I drilled out the handle screw holes to a 9/32" hole for the m4 cylinders. If your lid is uncut, you SHOULD be able to use this trim plate as the guide to cutting the lid top. This worked for me, so it should work for you unless something is different in our lids. What you'll be doing here is essentially working top down. Trim plate installed and then mark the lid and cut through:
Next you'll need to start drilling/cutting some holes through the bottom of the lid. This will need to be in steps as there are 4 things to drill through the console lid:
- Console latch hole
- Set screw - fastens the latch mechanism to the console lid
- Alignment pin - keeps it from rotating
- Relief for key nose - basically the key will protrude past the plastic when fully inserted so it needs a relief hole
So you need to start with the console latch hole. It's a pretty long hole that needs a long throw back towards the passenger side. The template should give you a good reference when looking top down, because with the latch in you hand you can see and measure how far the lever is from the sides. After you get the latch hole you'll be able to put some paint or anti-seize on the latch areas and see where they land on the bottom lid to know here to drill. In this pic I had just marked the key relief hole with anti-seize. Here are some pics of the holes you need:
Here is an unedited version of the top view, you don't need these ones haha:
View from the bottom:
Then it should like pretty decent when all the holes are drilled and the latch will fully sit down:
Ok but now you're saying this is great but you can't find these parts anymore. So I think these MG/Rover parts will get the job done. The latch is the same P/N, the lock is different from the NAS 90, but this part is supposed to fit with the MG/Rover latch, and it visually appears to be similar and both in stock at rimmerbros:
Also pictured above you need to fashion a striker plate for the latch to grab to. To install this you'll need to drill out the console cubby to accommodate the latch. I was able to close the latch with my striker plate fastened to the cubby bottom before I added the trim plate. Bust since adding the trim plate I ended up adding some washers under the striker plate to get it to latch and all is well.
So it's possible to get your reproduction console lid to latch shut with some patience and lots of back and forth trimming/filing a bit to get it all to fit just right.
Good luck! Happy to answer questions if I can help.
I will also follow up with the stl file for the 3d printer.
