Tub re-assembly

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Should be just shy of an interference fit. We some times have to bend the tabs out slightly (whack with a plastic non marr hammer), position the tub and then another whack, to avoid scratching new paint. I use a thin nylon washer between the steel frame tab and the aluminum body work in an attempt to prevent the galvanic corrosion that eats the tubs behind those tabs.

BTW I have two pair of galvanized bumoerettes like those pictured if anyone is looking.
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
thanks, I'm going to flush it up with the horizontal tub brace. that way, the panels and capping will stick out past the xmember only their own thickness. just trying to get it as close to factory position before the final weld up. I have a puma style tab mount bar that I'll be welding to the top xmember, so I can't use that as a guide.

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WK2Burner

Well-known member
final fitment of the cross member this morning and all holes punched in tub. spent a few hours sanding out a horrible Bondo job only to find it not really that bad underneath. still needs a skim coat, but the 1/2"-5/8" of putty they had was easily corrected by a body hammer and piece of tube. so much damn dust.





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I have a question. On post 26 are those rivets that you use never seen those before, do the end up being round? How do those work.. Thanks in advance.
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
those are cleco's, or temp rivets. I bought them from Amazon after my painter buddy told me they are must with bodywork, especially these rovers.

I got them from Amazon here. $35

I could have used more 3/16 than it came with, so will probably get another dozen or so. Usually wont need that many at once though so depends on what you are doing. These things are gold.
 
I have a question. On post 26 are those rivets that you use never seen those before, do the end up being round? How do those work.. Thanks in advance.
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
finally some decent weather to paint today. frame/crossmember is done and at least got some primer and paint on it until I decide to ever fully strip the it completely. it came out well and is pretty beefy compared to the original which was pretty bent up. it's nice to be able to drill and tap the actual crossmember for mud flaps and the tub mount bar.

next weekend I'll mock the tub up and pull the trigger on panel bonding the panels on. needed temps above 60 to even consider it and finally got there.

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WK2Burner

Well-known member
first side is finally bonded up. took forever to get the rest of the frame prepped, and bolt everything back together getting things where I think they should be. my painter buddy came over and told me my panel prep was garbage, so hit every suface again with the fiber wheel. A couple rivets, 3m panel bond, and a boatload of clamps should be enough for solihull work. Definitely went a bit overboard but we are both pretty maticulous. next weekend I'll finish the other side. then the rest is just putting things back together so I can drive the damn thing

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Angus

Member
Looking good! Now hurry up and finish so we can go get it dirty. Let me know if you need another pair of hands, I'm in town this week.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Welding is quick. That's why they use it on the line. If it were me, I'd use panel bond. You get adhesion over the entire surface area of the overlap, whereas weld is, well, spotty.
exactly- spot welder and follow up with seam sealer was cheaper and faster than panel bond and wait for product to setup.
It's not hard to find ways to improve on how Land Rover did things.
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
other side done. finally. single 20oz tube of 3m seam sealer did both sides, down to the drop. both tub and panels painted with thin layer was all it took. came out pretty well I think, so assembly will continue. I was worried about new crossmember lining up, but with hybrid style tub mount, it made it easier to fit.

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