Tub re-assembly

WK2Burner

Well-known member
Since we are on the topic of holes in the rear tub. Are there plastic well nuts that go on either side of the new style capping light holes? They are square, and I have not seen a single parts diagram that shows anything that goes in there. The ones I bought for the front end and other floor pans are way too big.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
yes, plastic nutserts, forget the number, buy them in bulk packs of 10, but in the parts books.

I went with NAS cappings and lights on the 90 we built for trails and my own 110 back burner project, just prefer the look.
This gets rid of the light in the radius of the body work and allows placement down low.

Built this truck from parts. Tub was from a 1988 UK spec truck
 

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WK2Burner

Well-known member
yes, plastic nutserts, forget the number, buy them in bulk packs of 10, but in the parts books.

I went with NAS cappings and lights on the 90 we built for trails and my own 110 back burner project, just prefer the look.
This gets rid of the light in the radius of the body work and allows placement down low.

Built this truck from parts. Tub was from a 1988 UK spec truck
I can only hope that my daily D90 is as close to clean and complete as your "scabbed together trails parts truck". Nice work. I'll keep looking but wont be upset if someone has that pn number handy for them. Thanks for confirming.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
ehhh, that thing is still a work in progress, passenger door alignment sucked in that picture. That was taken 5 mins after we fired it up for the first time. Backed it out of the shop, pulled it up on the trailer and hauled ass to the MAR event 2 hrs away. There was litterally a tub of parts not yet installed in the back of the truck and the rear wiper,defrost, and brake light wiring just dangling inside the door but we did the event and had a blast.


Part number is RTC3745
I get the 10 or 30pk https://www.lrdirect.com/RTC3745-Nut-Lockut/
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
cross member coming along. layout was a mix between aftermarket and factory bent up original, hopefully it all fits. sleeving taking the longest, but only doing what I thought might be used structurally.



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WK2Burner

Well-known member
tacked up the cross member and got the tub back on for test fit. came out pretty close but have some work to do on the tub mount bar and still need to get some good measurements on where the cross member sits in relation to the rest of the chassis.



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WK2Burner

Well-known member
I pray for the guy who rear ends you
that's what started this whole mess. The PO did pretty well in pics covering up some rear end damage. Once I got a replacement, it was equally as disappointing in that it was paper thin. 6 x 3 tube seemed a better answer, and others had good luck elsewhere.

something sexy about bare metal panels held together with cleco's
yeah, going to use a thin film of panel bond on the panels, just hard to commit as I know it's over after that as far as movement. I think we are going to put the roof back on and try to tweak the crossmember first before we bond anything. Hard to figure out what is square but from the looks of it LR didnt really care either. Just want the xmember to be as close to stock position, and have all the door shut, etc.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
The tub can move around. If you havent moved the bulkhead best advise is to position the tub using door gaps as your guide and then final weld the crossmember.
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
The tub can move around. If you haven't moved the bulkhead best advise is to position the tub using door gaps as your guide and then final weld the crossmember.
Ill see where things line up. The bulkhead and seatbox have not moved. I bolted the 2 outer seatbox bolts but nothing else so we could move the tub a bit if needed. Angus stopped by yesterday with his sweet 94 ST and I looked to see where the face of the rear xmember lined up with the tub metal. Seems like it's about flush with the rear panels, and the corner cappings stick out past their own thickness or so, so I'll likely try to get close to that. I'm not looking to build this to perfection (if that even exists), just dont have any good reference points from my old setup.

I appreciate your input.
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
can anyone validate that I need 34 3/4" at the door gaps?

start around 5:30 for that info)
https://youtu.be/UwHOYGmtGN4

also, can anyone with a puma rear door give me an idea of the striker plate holes? the new panels have zero holes in them.

thanks



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WK2Burner

Well-known member
thanks Jim, at least I'll be in the ballpark then. I'll shoot for the 8mm gaps all around that I read somewhere.

just need to sure up what panel the rear xmember is flush with. hard to tell if it's the capping, rear panel, or the middle flat area.

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JimC

Well-known member
just need to sure up what panel the rear xmember is flush with. hard to tell if it's the capping, rear panel, or the middle flat area.
I measured my 90 and it has 88.1mm door openings as well.

I?m not tracking what you?re saying here in quotes. If you?re trying to figure out which surfaces should be parallel, the I think the answer is none. You just want the bulkhead perpendicular to the chassis rails and the door gaps correct by adding or subtracting washers from the bulkhead.

Are you doing the string thing?
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
sorry for the confusion. since the xmember was off, if I look at it from the side, what rear tub surface is the face flush with? the cappings stick out the furthest since they go over top of panels, the panels go over the center horizontal support, and the support has the holes for the cross member bolts. not sure hope far out or in from those surfaces should I put the xmember.



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