Truck Shut Down at Traffic Light :(

Grover

Well-known member
Ok, so my truck died at a stoplight. I rolled to a stop (engine running) then when I can to a complete stop, the engine shut off. It did not sputter like it was starving for fuel, it just shut off.

I had it towed home, then started to diagnose.

No codes per Rover Gauge.

When the ignition key is on, I can hear the fuel pump prime, try to start, nothing.



I checked for spark using a timing light.



I connected both the (+) and (-) leads of the timing light and the pickup lead to the #1 plug, cranked it over and no light (this timing lights works as I just used it a week ago)

I then connected the timing light pickup to the lead coming from coil to the distributor, cranked it over and again, no light.



I’m leaning towards a spark problem.



I’ve tested the voltages per the workshop manual.



I have 12.43V on the (+) and (–) polls on the battery.



With the ignition ON:

(+) side on coil to ground on block, I get 12.3V

(-) side on coil to ground on block, I get 12.3V

From the Ignition Module fastening bolts to ground, 0V



With the Ignition OFF:

(-) side on the coil to (+) battery, I get 12.43V



With the Ignition ON:

(-) side on the coil to (+) battery, I get .4V



When I attempt to start:

(-) side on the coil to (+) battery, I get .03V



Disconnect the pickup leads to the distributor to check resistance I get 3.34K ohms



I plan on checking continuity in the leads from the distributor to the ignition module.

Lastly, I installed the following 1,000 miles ago:
New plugs
New leads
New cap
New rotor



Anybody have advice?



Cheers…
 

Grover

Well-known member
Sorry, that would help...
NAS Defender 90 with the stock 3.9L V8 and the 14CUX, R380 trans.
100K miles on the clock
 

Robert

Well-known member
Could be a junk rotor

Check for spark between the coil and distributor. If theres none its likely the ICM. Supply voltage looks normal
 

Grover

Well-known member
Thanks, I connected the timing light pickup to the lead coming from coil to the distributor, cranked it over, no light.
How can I test the ICM?
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
As Robert suggests, the rotor.
In addition, the most common ignition issue with a Rover V8 is the cap and rotor.
Replace those and you have a high probability of being running again.
 

Grover

Well-known member
Ok, I'll try a working spare rotor, but why would I not get power out of the lead coming from the coil to the distributor?
 

Grover

Well-known member
Yup...it was either the rotor and/or the cap (which is Lucas and had only 500 miles on them)
I replaced with working spares and she fired up!

What I don’t understand is why I didn’t get juice out of the lead going from the coil to the distributor.

Also, how can such a simple part like the cap and rotor be so damn unreliable?
 

Robert

Well-known member
Also, how can such a simple part like the cap and rotor be so damn unreliable?

Changes in material and manufacturing environment. Remelt plastic in an un airconditioned high humidity dirty shop full of contamination is unlikely to meet the insulation requirements.

Some even add a rivet where there shouldnt be which makes the likelihood of failure much greater
 

Grover

Well-known member
Again, thanks for the tip. Are the Genuine LR caps the way to go?

I might make a flowerpot out of the Lucas cap...
 

Z.G

Well-known member
There's only 1 rotor to get, and it's the red one. We haven't seen many issues with either brands of caps
 

Z.G

Well-known member
Depends on where you're shopping, ours is PLI002R but others would likely use the original part number
 
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