Grover
Well-known member
Ok, so my truck died at a stoplight. I rolled to a stop (engine running) then when I can to a complete stop, the engine shut off. It did not sputter like it was starving for fuel, it just shut off.
I had it towed home, then started to diagnose.
No codes per Rover Gauge.
When the ignition key is on, I can hear the fuel pump prime, try to start, nothing.
I checked for spark using a timing light.
I connected both the (+) and (-) leads of the timing light and the pickup lead to the #1 plug, cranked it over and no light (this timing lights works as I just used it a week ago)
I then connected the timing light pickup to the lead coming from coil to the distributor, cranked it over and again, no light.
I’m leaning towards a spark problem.
I’ve tested the voltages per the workshop manual.
I have 12.43V on the (+) and (–) polls on the battery.
With the ignition ON:
(+) side on coil to ground on block, I get 12.3V
(-) side on coil to ground on block, I get 12.3V
From the Ignition Module fastening bolts to ground, 0V
With the Ignition OFF:
(-) side on the coil to (+) battery, I get 12.43V
With the Ignition ON:
(-) side on the coil to (+) battery, I get .4V
When I attempt to start:
(-) side on the coil to (+) battery, I get .03V
Disconnect the pickup leads to the distributor to check resistance I get 3.34K ohms
I plan on checking continuity in the leads from the distributor to the ignition module.
Lastly, I installed the following 1,000 miles ago:
New plugs
New leads
New cap
New rotor
Anybody have advice?
Cheers…
I had it towed home, then started to diagnose.
No codes per Rover Gauge.
When the ignition key is on, I can hear the fuel pump prime, try to start, nothing.
I checked for spark using a timing light.
I connected both the (+) and (-) leads of the timing light and the pickup lead to the #1 plug, cranked it over and no light (this timing lights works as I just used it a week ago)
I then connected the timing light pickup to the lead coming from coil to the distributor, cranked it over and again, no light.
I’m leaning towards a spark problem.
I’ve tested the voltages per the workshop manual.
I have 12.43V on the (+) and (–) polls on the battery.
With the ignition ON:
(+) side on coil to ground on block, I get 12.3V
(-) side on coil to ground on block, I get 12.3V
From the Ignition Module fastening bolts to ground, 0V
With the Ignition OFF:
(-) side on the coil to (+) battery, I get 12.43V
With the Ignition ON:
(-) side on the coil to (+) battery, I get .4V
When I attempt to start:
(-) side on the coil to (+) battery, I get .03V
Disconnect the pickup leads to the distributor to check resistance I get 3.34K ohms
I plan on checking continuity in the leads from the distributor to the ignition module.
Lastly, I installed the following 1,000 miles ago:
New plugs
New leads
New cap
New rotor
Anybody have advice?
Cheers…