Trim Retainers

Z.G

Z.G

Well-known member
Hey all,

In the midst of being far too busy, I'm happy to bring another product to market(needed them for my truck and 1 side was obsolete).

BTR8697 & BTR8696

We are having these made by one of my favorite vendors in the US, the same one making our floors, skid plates, and a few other things.

These are laser cut .050 5052 aluminum, finished in black powdercoat. They do incorporate the slight bend that tapers around the edge, they are not flat.

They retail for $19.50 each, and we're currently looking for stainless screws to match the original for better corrosion resistance.
IMG_9908-2.jpg
 
erover82

erover82

Well-known member
It gives me a sense of optimism when NLA parts are made available off the shelf again.

Those appear to be NAS part numbers, but all the ROW parts appear to be NLA as well. I wonder what the difference was.
 
Z.G

Z.G

Well-known member
erover82 said:
It gives me a sense of optimism when NLA parts are made available off the shelf again.

Those appear to be NAS part numbers, but all the ROW parts appear to be NLA as well. I wonder what the difference was.
Click to expand...

My guess would be either the courtesy light switch or speaker harness grommet location. The fitment itself should work the same for retaining the trim, as well as finishing off an area that gets a lot of traffic
 
Z.G

Z.G

Well-known member
evilfij said:
McMaster has black stainless screws (not sure if PZ or PH but I have to guess you could find PZ if you wanted them).
Click to expand...

We only started looking into hardware today, it's hard to say what would be best. I think black looks better, but the genuine screws are silver. May just leave it up for people to decide
 
WreckITFrank

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
evilfij said:
McMaster has black stainless screws (not sure if PZ or PH but I have to guess you could find PZ if you wanted them).
Click to expand...
They are PH. I have quite a few sizes all in 5/8 length. I use them or basically everything at this point. I posted them up in thread discussing such things but can just get the numbers again if anyone needs.
 
MountainD

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I’d rather have cadmium or black oxide coating on steel rather than stainless steel. Even for small screws. It has to do with separation on galvanic stability, in an area that gets exasperated with a lot of water. Stainless is pretty far even from typical steel. This forces corrosion to the bulkhead being the anode and I’d even prefer to have a screw rust than my bulkhead. Food for thought.
1628171666654.jpeg
 
S

Shortpour

New member
Z.G said:
Hey all,

In the midst of being far too busy, I'm happy to bring another product to market(needed them for my truck and 1 side was obsolete).

BTR8697 & BTR8696

We are having these made by one of my favorite vendors in the US, the same one making our floors, skid plates, and a few other things.

These are laser cut .050 5052 aluminum, finished in black powdercoat. They do incorporate the slight bend that tapers around the edge, they are not flat.

They retail for $19.50 each, and we're currently looking for stainless screws to match the original for better corrosion resistance.
View attachment 20503
Click to expand...
I need a set of those. Anything similar for 2nd row doors on a 110. I've got wright offroad mat in the front w/ kick panels but it looks like that shouldn't make a difference on the front doors? Message me re: payment and shipping when you get a chance. THANKS
 
erover82

erover82

Well-known member
Stainless fasteners are used too often on these trucks. People simply believe stainless = no corrosion, while being unaware it will exacerbate it in many cases, in addition to being prone to galling.

To get nice looking black hardware, buy regular zinc plated hardware, give it a quick dip in blueing solution (Walmart carries it), then rinse with water. It's a caustic chemical so be careful. This process will result in a nice true black finish that looks factory.
 
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