Tool Deals Thread

[evilfij]

As long as I’ve been turning wrenches, I think the only time I use normal length 1/2” drive ratchet is drain plugs. Everything else gets the impact or 24” Snap On flex head ratchet. I do have standard 1/2” Bahco and Craftsman ratchets. I prefer the Craftsman, but only because it doesn’t have one of those shitty soft grip handles that fall apart with any regular use. Both are junk.

Fascinating. It’s probably my third most used tool (behind the hammer, battery impact, maybe tied with locking pliers), but I use 1/2 for everything down to 10mm where I can. Although until very recently, I did not have a flex head ratchet (and I have only tried the 3/8 not the giant Gedore 1/2in one I got for $100 and the Stahlwille 1/2in is still two weeks out from Misterworker). The German brands sell replacement handles (pretty sure all of them do) if I ever wear one out (not being a pro and being careful to clean them after, I should be ok).

 

[Angus]

Both are junk.

Thems' fightin words here...

 

[acheck]

I use 1/2 for everything down to 10mm where I can

Now this, is truly fascinating. The first thing I learned when wrenching professionally was to use 1/4" for everything up to 14mm and then 3/8 for the rest above that. I never even bought a 1/2" drive set, just piecemeal sockets when needed for the 36" Snap On breaker bar and impact.

 

[evilfij]

Now this, is truly fascinating. The first thing I learned when wrenching professionally was to use 1/4" for everything up to 14mm and then 3/8 for the rest above that. I never even bought a 1/2" drive set, just piecemeal sockets when needed for the 36" Snap On breaker bar and impact.

No doubt that is what you are supposed to do, but I started out doing series rovers out of rust belt Canada which probably explains 90% of it. I need the leverage to break the fasteners free or break them off.

 

[erover82]

Using conservatively sized tools makes sense when tightening fasteners by hand without a torque wrench. However, when loosening fasteners, why would it matter? I either want it to come loose or break (so I can replace it) with the least amount of time and effort.

 

[evilfij]

Oh no.

oh no

oh no, no, no, no, no, no ....

Oh yes!

 

[Angus]

Very nice Ron. I like how they mark the front so you know which way to mount it. Those germans are so helpful!

 

[erover82]

Oh no.
View attachment 18638

oh no

View attachment 18639
oh no, no, no, no, no, no ....
View attachment 18640
Oh yes!

View attachment 18641

Whatever it banged into over its journey most certainly took a bruising. Deserves something quite stout to mount it to.

 

[erover82]

Makita tools probably belong in the "Best" thread. Same price as tool-only, but with 5.0AH battery. This is their newer model with more torque in a compact package.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TNTFHVW

 

[Angus]

The first problem with tools is they obey the ideal gas law - they quickly expand to fill the available volume (or budget). So no matter how big the box, within a few years, you will need bigger one. I am here, and looking for more.

So you need to have good organization to be able to find anything in the ever increasingly giant tool warehouse...

almost tipped my toolbox over opening those two drawers at the same time...

 

[acheck]

Using conservatively sized tools makes sense when tightening fasteners by hand without a torque wrench. However, when loosening fasteners, why would it matter? I either want it to come loose or break (so I can replace it) with the least amount of time and effort.

When breaking fasteners costs money (in the exponential form, time), it matters. Also, the Snap on 1/4" drive ratchets I have will break even new 1/4-20 bolts no problem if you try. Most importantly though, they fit everywhere in the engine bay. I could not imagine trying to do service work on an engine with 1/2" drive tools. Neanderthal style.

 

[acheck]

This would change your mind. Trust me.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com

 

[jymmiejamz]

Using conservatively sized tools makes sense when tightening fasteners by hand without a torque wrench. However, when loosening fasteners, why would it matter? I either want it to come loose or break (so I can replace it) with the least amount of time and effort.

Do you not use the same tools for assembly as you used for disassembly?

The other obvious reason is the likelihood of damaging surrounding components with an unnecessarily large tool is far greater than with the appropriately sized tool.

 

[Angus]

Do you not use the same tools for assembly as you used for disassembly?

On engines or delicate work, I do not. I will use an impact to disassemble, but always use had tools to reassemble. Also, usually gravitate towards 6 point on rusty or tight bolts to remove.

 

[chris snell]

Who makes the best caliper? I have a crappy Kobalt model that eats batteries and I would like to replace it with something better.

 

[erover82]

Who makes the best caliper? I have a crappy Kobalt model that eats batteries and I would like to replace it with something better.

Mitutoyo

 

[jymmiejamz]

With the tools that I keep in my Defender I have done diffs, engines, head gaskets, brake jobs, and even a transmission. I think the only 1/2” sockets I have are 24mm and 27mm. I have a full set of shallow 3/8” sockets on a rail, a select few deep ones and 12pt, and a bunch of 1/4” stuff shoved into a beat up Illy tin. All of this fits in 3 small tool rolls. I can’t imagine having to carry around separate set of 1/2” tools on top of all that

 

[erover82]

I'm sure you pros are correct, but allow me to present this PROTO 3/4 drive, 9/16 socket.

 

[evilfij]

Not starrett?

I have the chinese Stahlwille coming.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I'm sure you pros are correct, but allow me to present this PROTO 3/4 drive, 9/16 socket.

View attachment 18650

I know I have 1/2” drive 10mm SK deep sockets as well as swivel. I can’t remember for sure, but I may even have 8mm.