Time to replace transmission... Stumpy R380 ooo la la

[nas90tdi]

If it can't be put in the chassis from above, just remove all the floors,tunnel and cross member. It's not that bad. No need to remove the seatbox. I agree it is nicer to build it on a rolling chassis however.

 

[globallandrovers]

I am not not trying to do anything on the cheap. Trying to do it smart.

There is a fine line between doing it right/smart, doing it cheap/stupid, and wasting money for no good reason.

My deliberation on clutch has nothing to do with cost and more to do with using a shotgun when the job calls for a scalpel. Back when I dealt with high performance cars a lot of people wanted legit racing clutches in cars that only see street use. The result was a clutch that made excessive noise, drove harshly, and failed early. I am trying to avoid that by choosing the right tool for the job. I have no experiences with Defender clutches so I am shooting in the dark.

It all depends on your application for your truck. Is it a mall cruiser, a work truck that will tow often, or an off-roader/expedition truck?

I tend to always fit Genuine HD clutches and the re-enforced clutch forks each time I do a swap. This is mainly because I use all my vehicles for towing, even the ones we sell on to the USA.

 

[AdamSanta85]

I tend to always fit Genuine HD clutches

My truck is a mall/beach cruiser. It will make a couple trips to off road park but few and far between. No towing.

What part number? DA5551G (130) or LR009366 (Regular, I don't see an HD version of this)? Who manufactures the genuine kits, AP Driveline, Borg and Beck, or Valeo?

 

[chris snell]

Go with the 130 clutch. It's such a pain in the ass to do. I would rather spent the extra money and gain months or years in durability.

 

[AdamSanta85]

Go with the 130 clutch. It's such a pain in the ass to do. I would rather spent the extra money and gain months or years in durability.

Yea that is what I am learning towards. It is only a $20 difference between a "high end" standard (AP Driveline) and the 130 Valeo. I am just concerned about extra chatter/shudder when trying to slip the clutch gently in traffic. These things make enough of a racket as is.

 

[chris snell]

I've never noticed any noise. I run a 130 clutch.

 

[AdamSanta85]

I've never noticed any noise. I run a 130 clutch.

Good to hear from a primary source. What put me onto that was Ashcroft's site

"please note that the purpose of the springs in the friction plate are to absorb some of the punch of the diesel engine to reduce the 'gearbox chatter' common on the LT77 and R 380, the 130 centre has stronger springs which will increase the gearbox chatter"

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/miscellaneous/clutches/130-tdi-clutch-kit.html

We used to install these Exedy brand "Stage 2" clutches in WRX's that groaned and shuddered when trying to slip them gently. However that was going from an organic full face sprung disc, to a cerametallic 3 puck sprung disc. Then you had your twin/triple disc clutches which were another story.... Anyway different strokes.


Stage 1

Stage 2

 

[DefendersNW]

I've never noticed any noise. I run a 130 clutch.

HD or 130 clutch works on a 110 driveline (esp with Salisbury rear end) - however it can be more "chattery" when used on a 90 (think Desmo dry clutch but subdued/covered)

I'd run a standard clutch on the 90 or a 110 that was driven unloaded as a car mostly - on a 130 or built up 110 that is driven loaded down all the time the HD clutch is a little insurance against burning it up getting a heavy load moving on a steep hill.

 

[AdamSanta85]

HD or 130 clutch works on a 110 driveline (esp with Salisbury rear end) - however it can be more "chattery" when used on a 90 (think Desmo dry clutch but subdued/covered)

I'd run a standard clutch on the 90 or a 110 that was driven unloaded as a car mostly - on a 130 or built up 110 that is driven loaded down all the time the HD clutch is a little insurance against burning it up getting a heavy load moving on a steep hill.

Yep, just a unloaded D90 with some basic bolt on gear (step bumper, rock guards, tip up jump seats). I throw my surfboards on the roof, maybe one day will do some roof camping in the north east. Most of the time I just use it around town as a play car.

What brand (standard clutch) do you prefer?

AP Driveline, or Borg and Beck?

Random update. I assumed AP Driveline was an OE division of AP racing. Both are UK companies, essentially same name. Now digging for info, AP Driveline seems to be a separate company under the brand Raicam. Looks like Raicam does a lot of OE stuff for JLR though which is good. Looks like the clutches are made in either UK, Italy, India or Brazil.

http://www.raicam.com/

Here is the link to the Borg & Beck stuff. Their cast iron slave cylinder looks pretty nice too.

http://webcat.borgandbeck.com/AppSearch/borgbeck/19466/Clutch Kits

 

[4wdtravel]

I think AP used to be partnered with Lockheed, another OEM supplier for LR brakes in the 80s/90s.

 

[AdamSanta85]

Small update. I have been going back and forth with what to do about the transfer case. All I know about my current is that it leaks oil and the input gear is very worn. I was originally going to attempt to refresh mine once I got it all down but after reading about the specialty tools needed to get it proper or what it would cost me to pay someone to get it proper, I decided to just go for the Ashcroft case as well. So I just ordered a 1.4 sleeved Ashcroft T-case with upgraded cross pin. My wallet hates me and my fiance would kill me if she found out with our wedding on the horizon but at least the truck should shift good and maybe not leak oil for a few miles...

Still deciding on clutch. It is between the Borg & Beck standard duty or the Valeo 130.

 

[nas90tdi]

I have had good luck with the Borg&Beck clutches. Just put one in my 110 actually. I like the heavy duty clutches, but they can be a bitch if you get caught in traffic and your knees are shot.

 

[AdamSanta85]

Anyone know the reverse sensor part number to use with the R380 stumpy? AMR3918?

 

[AdamSanta85]

Update. Parts left Ashcroft today via TNT. Should be seeing them this week. Held off on ordering the other items until the this stuff arrives as I can then look everything over and audit anything else I might need so I can save myself multiple shipping expenses. Hoping to get this installed sometime this month as my LT77 output shaft is crying to help after yesterdays beach trip.

I have decided to go with the Valeo 130 clutch.

 

[DefendersNW]

I have decided to go with the Valeo 130 clutch.

Would not run suggest the HD clutch on a 90 - you will have chatter...

 

[AdamSanta85]

Would not run suggest the HD clutch on a 90 - you will have chatter...

You're killing me.

My current setup, whatever it is, already makes rattling with the pedal in or idling in neutral.

By chatter you mean when trying to slip the clutch gently in traffic? Chatter as in shuddering of the truck/driveline or just noise?

You suggest the AP or B&B?

I will cry (bitch on here) if I bust a spring out of the clutch disc. I prefer 4 spring clutch discs for that reason, which none of these are.

 

[DefendersNW]

You're killing me.

My current setup, whatever it is, already makes rattling with the pedal in or idling in neutral.

By chatter you mean when trying to slip the clutch gently in traffic? Chatter as in shuddering of the truck/driveline or just noise?

You suggest the AP or B&B?

I will cry (bitch on here) if I bust a spring out of the clutch disc. I prefer 4 spring clutch discs for that reason, which none of these are.

When you release the HD clutch in neutral there is usually audible chatter - think Ducati dry clutch type though much more subdued since it is enclosed. The longer driveline and slop in the salisbury rear end on the 130 negates this effect.

Valeo standard clutch setup is just fine on an average build 110 and all but the heaviest 90.

Drivability is close enough that most can't tell the difference unless heavily laden (think loaded camel trophy recce 90) like a 130 or 110 3-door can be.

 

[steinhnj]

Adam, not to add more work to this job, but when I did my 200Tdi swap, I replaced the clutch pedal from the single spring design to the double spring design. This is one of my favorite upgrades for under $200. Much easier on the knee and my wife doesn't complain when she drives it...at least about the clutch. There's always the smell, the draft, the noise, no radio, the leaks and so on that she can complain about.

Part number was SKB500280.

 

[AdamSanta85]

Adam, not to add more work to this job, but when I did my 200Tdi swap, I replaced the clutch pedal from the single spring design to the double spring design. This is one of my favorite upgrades for under $200. Much easier on the knee and my wife doesn't complain when she drives it...at least about the clutch. There's always the smell, the draft, the noise, no radio, the leaks and so on that she can complain about.

Part number was SKB500280.

Thank you but dang, I didn't know about this. More stuff to buy. $125 for LRDirect. Not terrible... Might as well...

I actually wanted to seal that better anyway. I had a small water leak from that clutch pedal that I fixed with strip caulk. Ill be able to do a better job when i replace the pedal.

Anything else that should go with it? I see this image

thanks!

 

[AdamSanta85]

Transmission and transfer case just got delivered. Looks very very nice. Also came with a little kit. Some of the clutch parts I needed like the HD fork, a shift knob, some decals, winter hat, and a tea (coffee for me) mug. Nice bunch of people.

I just ordered the rest of the parts. Debated to the end on the clutch, ended up going for the Valeo 130. Hopefully I made the right call. No doubt it will sound like a Ducati in neutral.