Time to replace transmission... Stumpy R380 ooo la la

[AdamSanta85]

Well the time has come to finally resolve the banging in my driveline that occurs every time I let off the clutch fast. When I first got my truck I had remained optimistic that changing my suspension bushings would fix it. While they helped, banging was still there. Then I was optimistic replacing the A arm ball joint would fix it. While better still, banging remains. Then my transmission and engine mounts. Improvements again, but still banging.Eventually (Monday) I found the courage to pop off the PTO cover to face my enemy. LT77 output shaft is hammered. Much sadness was had, and now I am ready to make things right, better then it ever was.

Truck is a Defender 200TDI w/ LT77H and a D suffix LT230 T-Case

I will be updating this thread as my progress with this goes on. I was planning on ordering the stuff from Ashcroft in about 10 days (aka pay day)

My plan is as follows

1. Ashcroft R380 Stumpy
2. Refresh T-case myself with drilled input gear, new drive flanges, new seals where I can get at them, proper linkage for this setup
3. Clutch kit, resurface flywheel, slave cylinder, stainless line, and maybe new master, clutch fork
4. Replace rear main seal (mine has a slight leak)

I have some questions for the guys of you out there that have been through this

• Standard clutch or 130 clutch? AP Driveline brand? Truck doesn't really get abused, I just want it to be reliable and hold the power. Don't want any springs popping out of the clutch disc.
  
• Refinishing the flywheel is usually OK? Don't replace it (unless it is blue as the sky)?
  
• Any other gaskets and seals I should buy? ( I am also getting new slave cylinder, clutch line, and maybe clutch master, and rear main seal for engine)
  
• Should I buy the LT230 full rebuild kit instead of just the gasket kit?
  
• Is the HD R380 support bearing worth upgrading for a regular truck? I think it is around a $200 upgrade.
  
• Is the upgraded cross pin in T-Case difficult to install for a backyard mechanic? Do I need this?
  
• Any tests I can run on my transfer case to tell if the center diff is in working order etc? The only thing I know currently is it leaks oil, and my input gear needs to be replaced. It is currently in the truck. Don't really want to pull it until I have the new parts as I like having the ability to pull my truck in and out of garage.
  
• What brand rear main seal should I use? I heard people Loctite this in to prevent further leakage?
  
• Any other suggestions or comments?

 

[AdamSanta85]

This is what I was thinking. Clutch fork isn't on there, I think it is included with the transmission. Slave cylinder, master cylinder, clutch line, and rear main I was going to get from LR Direct most likely.

 

[javelinadave]

I have not done this but your list looks complete. Post BrExit that is a bargain. A year ago you would be in for $3k with shipping.

 

[AdamSanta85]

A year ago you would be in for $3k with shipping.

Oh wow. As of right now I am at $1790 shipped using Transferwise, $35 less then yesterday IIRC. Not counting the LR Direct parts which will be another $150 give or take. Let's hope nothing changes in the next 10 days. Ill make sure to get my order in before the 20th.

 

[RDavisinVA]

Stumpy uses a different release beating as the one found in the TDI clutch kit.

 

[AdamSanta85]

Stumpy uses a different release beating as the one found in the TDI clutch kit.

I THINK these items are included with the transmission, but I emailed Ashcroft for clarification.

Clutch fork pivot(FTC4173&FTC4174) inc screws £ 14
Clutch fork (FTC2957HD) £ 10
Clutch fork thrust pads, pair (FRC5255) £ 4
Clutch release bearing (UTJ100210) £ 24
Clutch release bearing clip (FRC3416) £ 1.20

Robert, any thoughts on 130 vs standard clutch, what brands to use for slave and master cylinder (assume no Britpart, no Lucas), or 200TDI rear main?

EDIT - Looks like it is included

"Please note that you will require the above clutch release bearing to fit the short bellhousing R380 (supplied free of charge when purchasing a reconditioned unit) and you can not fit the short bellhousing R380 with a standard tdi clutch release bearing."

 

[RDavisinVA]

I think the last clutch we fitted was a Bearmach HD for a 130.

 

[AdamSanta85]

So I just ordered the R380 setup w/ LT230 rebuild parts. I had to delay my order due to the acquisition of a D1, which is now thankfully gone.

Now trying to sort out all the ancillaries I need to order as well.

Any more thoughts on clutch? I am torn between the AP driveline standard kit and the Valeo 130 kit. I don't stress my driveline. Maybe it is best I go with the "weaker" clutch? Same for clutch fork?

What is the story with flywheels. I can get a "OEM" for $180. Is it worth refinishing my existing when I can just R&R it? My past experience is with Japanese car flywheels, in which you basically always R&R it. However I see lots of people saying they just refinish on these. Do they not really get worn/blued?



ERR1208 - Exhaust manifold to engine gasket
ETC5710 - Manifold to turbo gasket
ETC5898 - turbo to DP gasket

ERR2532 - Rear main seal
AMR3918 - R380 Reverse sensor

DA5551G - Valeo D130 HD clutch
FTC2957HD - Clutch fork HD
591231 - Clutch slave Delphi
STC500100 - Clutch master Delphi
RTC4425 Clutch line
ERR1440 - Clutch housing gasket
ERR4574 - Flywheel bolts
SX108201L - Clutch cover bolts
ERR719 - Flywheel
FRC5255 - Slipper Pads
FRC3416 - Release bearing clip

 

[globallandrovers]

The general rule for Defenders is avoid doing it 'on the cheap'. as you will regret it.

 

[AdamSanta85]

The general rule for Defenders is avoid doing it 'on the cheap'. as you will regret it.

I am not not trying to do anything on the cheap. Trying to do it smart.

There is a fine line between doing it right/smart, doing it cheap/stupid, and wasting money for no good reason.

My deliberation on clutch has nothing to do with cost and more to do with using a shotgun when the job calls for a scalpel. Back when I dealt with high performance cars a lot of people wanted legit racing clutches in cars that only see street use. The result was a clutch that made excessive noise, drove harshly, and failed early. I am trying to avoid that by choosing the right tool for the job. I have no experiences with Defender clutches so I am shooting in the dark.

 

[4wdtravel]

The standard 130 clutch is not a racing clutch dude. The springs are just a little stronger.

 

[nas90tdi]

Refinish it. Those are heavy duty flywheels and can take a good bit of abuse before they are done.

The clutch on this one was toast when I got the engine. Flywheel was perfectly fine.

 

[4wdtravel]

I would also refinish the Genuine original flywheel rather than replace it with a $180 piece of aftermarket garbage. You'll need new clutch cover alignment pins.

 

[AdamSanta85]

The standard 130 clutch is not a racing clutch dude. The springs are just a little stronger.

Thanks. I know it isn't a racing clutch but it is designed for a much heavier vehicle. You would do a 130 clutch instead of the standard? Same for the HD clutch fork?

 

[AdamSanta85]

You'll need new clutch cover alignment pins.

Thanks. I didn't foresee that. I will add it to the list and nix the "OEM" flywheel. Do you know how many I need and the part number off hand? I THINK the part number is 502116 and it looks like 3 pieces?

 

[4wdtravel]

I can't remember off the top of my head, but it was cheap.

The 130 clutch isnt necessary by any means but I would consider it the best available part.

Regarding the clutch fork absolutely YES get the HD one. It eliminates the problem where the standard stamped steel fork wears and blows through at the pivot. It has no impact on driving feel, or anything else aside from just eliminating a weak link.

 

[AdamSanta85]

ERR1208 Exhaust manifold to engine gasket
ETC5710 Maniofld to turbo gasket
ETC5898 turbo to DP gasket

ERR2532 Rear main seal
AMR3918 Reverse Sensor

DA5551G Valeo D130 HD clutch
FTC2957HD Clutch fork HD
591231 Clutch slave Delphi
STC500100 Clutch master Delphi
RTC4425 Clutch line

ERR1440 Clutch housing gasket
ERR4574 Flywheel bolts
SX108201L Clutch cover bolts
FRC5255 Slipper Pads
FRC3416 Release bearing clip
502116 Flywheel Dowels

 

[AdamSanta85]

Anyone know which clutch slave to use? LT77 or R380?

 

[chris snell]

Out of curiousity, how are you home garage mechanics pulling the gearbox and t-case on an already built truck? When I put my t-case and gearbox in, it was on a rolling chassis with no body so it was really easy. What's the procedure for a truck with a body? Do you remove floor boards and seatbox?

 

[AdamSanta85]

Out of curiousity, how are you home garage mechanics pulling the gearbox and t-case on an already built truck? When I put my t-case and gearbox in, it was on a rolling chassis with no body so it was really easy. What's the procedure for a truck with a body? Do you remove floor boards and seatbox?

I normally do everything on my truck in my single car garage. This time it is going to a shop, RoverTek. I am trying to be very proactive with all the parts, so that it is in and out and not tied up at someone else's shop waiting on parts from the UK.

I was torn about doing it at home. You can get to a lot of what you need by removing the floor panels and transmission tunnel cover, and seat box if need be...