Thunk coming from rear end

[Motorradmark]

LR110, 300 tdi with R380, Salisbury rear end. Running 235/85R16 size tires.
Makes a thunk from rear end when releasing clutch periodically, also when I ease off accelerator pedal and then press down again. I have read the threads on that god awful defender clunk.

Feel a inch or 2 of play in rear driveshaft when turning by hand.

Heard it might be caused by either axle bridge joint at Aframe or rear diff. Can anyone shed some light on what I would be looking for? Has relatively new bushes and u joints “look” ok.

Simple question is how to check the a frame joint and what to look at if it might be beyond normal driveline slop.

I did see Lav has a replacement with bit more articulation and doesn’t require a press, which I don’t have.

Thoughts, advice, jeering welcome.

Thanks

 

[JimC]

The easiest thing to reach under and check is whether or not the rear shock mounts are bolted down tightly to the frame. They clunk like mad if they’re at all loose.

 

[Motorradmark]

Will do. Had to replace my front shock bushings before URE15 this fall. Rear seemed ok then.
Thanks

 

[rocky]

Can you hear/feel the noise coming from any specific area of the truck? The UJs in the driveshaft always like a little extra grease. Other wear areas include the diff itself, a frame joint to the splines on the driveshaft. Just going to take step by step detective work.

 

[Napalm00]

This klunk is usually one of two types. It usually is the A-frame ball joint or your transmission output splines.

You can check the ball joint by inserting a pry bar and seeing if it moves independently of the axle.

You can check the splines removing the PTO cover on the transfer case and rotating the drum brake back and forth. If the input shaft move independently of the input gear you know that's the issue.

 

[RDavisinVA]

This klunk is usually one of two types. It usually is the A-frame ball joint or your transmission output splines.

You can check the ball joint by inserting a pry bar and seeing if it moves independently of the axle.

You can check the splines removing the PTO cover on the transfer case and rotating the drum brake back and forth. If the input shaft move independently of the input gear you know that's the issue.

Yes and to add, a driveshaft can have bad U-joints that can bind and do not make any real noise, up until they unbind and break loose!
Happened to me a few weeks ago.
All I heard was a low volume chirping sound that I thought was the pilot bushing.