This Noise

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK, I managed to test #1 and it stopped and held at 400 psi.

Yes, it just took me 45 minutes to get the four glow plugs out. This is what I'm up against.

I might get a chance to do the others later.

#2 glow plug looked exactly like #1.
#3 and #4 were the same, but had more oil on them.
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Compression
1 = 400
2 = 360
3 = 400
4 = ? Unable to attach the compression fitting due to clearance....

So... that pretty much solved not much. I kind of want the last two years of free time back from this thing.
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
What should be my next step?

I feel that I need to pull the front cover to check that the cam isn't a tooth off, or pull the pan to see if there isn't a loose/bad bearing....?

Is there anything I can learn from the glow plugs and the three compression values?
 

donb

Well-known member
What should be my next step?

I feel that I need to pull the front cover to check that the cam isn't a tooth off, or pull the pan to see if there isn't a loose/bad bearing....?

Is there anything I can learn from the glow plugs and the three compression values?

Why can't you get the 4th compression reading? Can you thread in the piece that goes into the glowplug threads?
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
The click-on compression fitting that goes to the gauge is just slightly too big to fit in the space. That is to say, the bracket that holds the air filter is fixed to the side of the engine with two of the head bolts. That bracket sticks out just about 1mm too far for me to get the fitting snapped onto the threaded glow plug insert. I tried backing it out far enough for clearance, but then it runs into the air filter bracket (the unmovable part) or it is too loose to hold pressure and the reading would be totally inaccurate anyway. If I had an extension, maybe.
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
What should be my next step?

I feel that I need to pull the front cover to check that the cam isn't a tooth off, or pull the pan to see if there isn't a loose/bad bearing....?

Is there anything I can learn from the glow plugs and the three compression values?
Bump.

Does a standard NAPA type puller work OK for the main pulley?

....don’t have any mechanic I can take it to, so you all are stuck with my newb questions.
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Thanks. I’ll guve it a try since I don’t feel like pulling the pan. Praying there’s something odd and obvious behind the cover to fix to solve this problem.
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Just to be sure... I'm NOT going to need a new gasket or seal(s) here? They are 7500 miles old. I can get new ones, but it will take me a few days, and I need to know if I have a few days or if I can pull this to inspect, then put it back on.


EDIT.... Never mind.... silly me, I don't even have any way of holding the crankshaft still while undoing the bolt. Abort.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Simply put a breaker bar on the nut that will reach the frame. Turn the engine so the bar is as close to the frame as possible and then bump your starter. Breaks em loose every time.
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Yeah, I finally figured that one out. Of course for some reason the starter stuck, and even when I pulled the key out, it kept cranking the truck. Got away with it with no damage this time, but I have never had anything like that happen before. ...Yet another thing to have to fix... (Ignition, starter, and wiring are all new.)

I have just confirmed that the timing is correct. The belt is nice and tight, no frays, no damage, nothing looks out of ordinary in there. So I'm no closer to getting this solved. I'll try to get around to pulling the pan tomorrow, unless anyone has any better ideas.
 

abraded

Member
You may be all set for buttoning the timing cover back up, but I've got the tool to hold the crank while torquing that damper bolt (I'm in Sellwood and your welcome to borrow it). Also have a compression tester with adapter--if different than yours might allow you to check that last cylinder. PM me if you want to borrow tools.
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I hate to think what it would be like to drive from Boring to Sellwood with all the road closures and 90 degree heat in a Series! I rode in a Series on the Dunes in Dubai at 112 degrees last week, and I really think the trans-Portland trip would be worse. But thank you for the offer! I might take you up on the extension for my compression tester, but it can wait. I'm buttoning up the cover this morning, and I think I'll be able to get the main bolt tight enough.

Unsure if I'll have the time to pull the pan today, but I'm going to go ahead and get the oil and be ready to do so.
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK, I'm done chasing this demon for now. I'm going to have to wait till something breaks to figure out what is breaking.

But after all the opening and shutting and analysis and listening and all that, I think I may go back to my initial thoughts on this issue from over a year ago, when I was first driving the truck daily.

On any given day it would run rough and loud, but it was inconsistent. In my pea-brain, I figured this must have something to do with fueling. So I experimented with different fuels and additives, and it seemed to respond a bit. Then I swapped injectors, and that really seemed to smooth it out. I even retarded the timing on the IP to get rid of the white smoke that was plaguing my neighbors. But this knock/ring noise persisted. At first, I think it was also inconsistent. But in reality, I've sort of lost track of one thing leading to the other.

All of this to say that I'm coming back to the thought that this might be some kind of pre-ignition, latent, retarded, advanced knock that is being caused by an IP pump. A few people mentioned something along these lines, so I held onto the thought, and am now coming full circle.

I reset my IP timing, and although the knock is still there, I find myself driving, stopping, driving, and later realizing that I wasn't bothered by the sound while sitting at a light! This really is new, and it tells me something about how much it has diminished.

So I think I will run it as is for a bit, monitor the knock, then see about getting the IP serviced. If that doesn't fix it, I know for sure I'm in for some kind of break down the road. But.... whatever.
 
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