Swivel Ball R&R

[SaintPanzer]

I was hoping the Tech Support guys from my favorite parts supplier would have answered my email by now... but I really want to place an order because I know this probably won't be a "one weekend" project. So:

The time has come to remove and replace my swivel balls. One seal is leaking, so that needs to be replace, and the ball is a bit pitted, so it's probably time. Also, while I'm in there, I will R&R the pads and rotors. I just want to make sure I get everything I need all at once, so I'm not stuck "waiting" with the truck in the air while parts ship.

Does anyone have a complete recommended parts list for the job? I know I want a genuine LR ball... but what else? I'm looking at the parts diagram, and I'm sure I'm going to forget something!

Related: Should I buy extra shims for adjusting the top pin? If so, how many/which ones?

I've checked out a few videos, I have a fish scale, and am expecting a mess. Part of the project will involve pulling the bolt that limits how far the tires turn (the head broke off, bring the heat and some vice grips...) Looking at the below photo, I am thinking 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11 (X2), and 18 (X2). Of course, all that, twice, so I can do both sides.

Any other "before you start" advice? I don't have a garage, so this will be done in the driveway... should be entertaining. I will post photos.

 

[erover82]

Disassembly will be messy. I like to use a big galvanized pan to catch everything. It involves many parts but it's not a difficult job. Mike @ Britrest has a few videos on swivel rebuilds. Clean everything up well and reassemble per the workshop manual's specs. The large hub nut can just be hand tightened though.

 

[supertreeman]

Agree with above. Messy job but not terribly difficult.

I bought a complete kit from Bearmach that included everything; the balls, seals, bearings, shims, and one shot. New balls are teflon coated not chrome (Mine are at least).

Not sure if spending the extra $$ for a genuine LR ball is worth it but I could be wrong. Im sure others will chime in.

Lost of good videos on youtube. Make sure you put the seal holder on the correct orientation before you bolt it all back together.

 

[SaintPanzer]

Thanks all... there's another thread here somewhere that speaks to which parts should be LR, and which are OK for aftermarket. I think the consensus was that swivel balls and door seals were on the "Always LR" list...

 

[expanse]

Most everyone sells a complete kit to service a swivel. Clear and chase all threads, clean everything up. this is a bulk of the work. Axle shafts, cv's, stub axles, brakes, and a few other reused items need to be inspected, all of which could cause a slow turn around.

To me the following list is all cheap money to keep things rolling and everything goes into spare parts box for the truck if not used; a few spare swivel ball to axle bolts, spare swivel to axle gasket, spare stub axle gasket, spare lower swivel pin gasket (#24), A few inner hub seals and a set of wheel bearings. small tub of wheel bearing grease. A set of hub nuts and a few lock washers. high chance someone used a chisel at some point and the nut is mashed. snag a hub nut socket if you've not already. few hub flange gaskets and a set of 5 hub flange bolts. plastic hub caps that go on the flange. spare cv/flange cir-clip. Swivel kits will have a pack of shims.

I have a bench vise stand I made to mount the swivel to so I can set it up in the shop and not be hunched over on a truck. 1/4 plate, with a big hole to fit the swivel into and a few mounting holes. used a gasket to transfer the holes over.

 

[evilfij]

14mm ratcheting wrench, but use a normal wrench to break them loose. My way of doing it is to take off the caliper so I don’t have to mess with brake lines, then take it off at the swivel ball to axle. Then set it up in a hole or two boards so you can work on it in a nice position.

if you use paper gaskets, smear them with something. On the stub axle end I use hylomar, but for the swivel to axle I would probably use formagasket.

 

[erover82]

On the stub axle end I use hylomar, but for the swivel to axle I would probably use formagasket.

Why forgo hylomar and gasket on the swivel to axle? If you're going the sealant route, wouldn't anaerobic be the correct type for mating two machined flange surfaces?

 

[evilfij]

On the axle to swivel would use formagasket on the paper gasket (both sides) but that is just me. I use hylomar on drive flange gaskets (both sides).

 

[jymmiejamz]

It seems to me like most people struggle with installing the seals in the correct orientation

 

[michael67]

A few random thoughts I don't think were covered.
Don't forget the shims and snap rings on the end of the axle, along with something to measure end play (Harbor Freight's "Clamping Dial Indicator" works good). A dead blow hammer is needed if you plan to disassemble the CV joints, simple to do and should do it once anyway, although may not be feasible if you don't have a vice to clamp it in. I used an axle nut socket I had for my old CJ on the Defender axle nut, as I torque mine down then back it off - should be available at most parts stores. I fill my swivel balls with 80w90, not the one-shot, although I do have a couple of those just-in-case.

 

[evilfij]

I finally broke down and got a hub nut socket. Never used one before.