Switching an LR3 to coils; my experience

Ray_G

Well-known member
Figured I'd add a little to the DiscoTech portion and address something a lot of owners may look at, dwell on, and then digest the internet's vast amount of...opinion...on the matter. In this case, I'll share my actual experience for those wanting that level of granularity. First off, gratuitous shot of my baby (the younger of my two Rover mistresses):


Since many LR3s are now over 10yrs old, some owner's are buying them at great initial price points but with the necessary maintenance that follows as we've been discussing, some may logically look at the EAS coil conversion kits that entities like AB offer. ( http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/L319SRK-OME)

This contemplation often happens when the truck keeps dropping to the bump stops because of suspension failures that can be a product of the compressor going, or an EAS block leaking, or a strut failing, or a brake switch going bad, or a brake light going out, or the wiring harness in the passenger side canal, I mean channel, having been immersed in water at some point corroding. The point with that is that while most of the reasons why the EAS can fail are well know, the diagnosis can be frustrating, time-consuming and/or expensive. For me I decided that I was removing the variable when the truck decided to drop to her bump stops...on the edge of the Empty Quarter on the UAE/KSA/Oman border...and it was 120 deg so we pogo sticked back to the Oasis we were staying like the world's heaviest conestoga wagon. It was hot, there was a LOT of sand:



So should the average LR3 owner consider the coils?

Probably not, admittedly the EAS is a robust system that isn't too expensive maintain.

Well, maybe not.
Definitely not if you tow.
Likely not if you have kids, elderly, are shorter than even I am, or have midgets (i.e. you use the access mode, a lot).

Other reasons you will hear:
-It will ruin the ride. No, in fact, it does not.
-You will destroy its amazing off-road capability. That is relative, you will lose some rear droop, the degree to which that will stop your 5k+ lb vehicle's offroad prowess depends on a lot of things.

Here's a write up from my LR3 build thread over on ExpO: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/143540-NAS-LR3-build-with-an-overseas-twist/page36

What I have found is that the install was easy, in my case I paid my Emirati (read: Lebanese) to have his shop (Phillipinos) do it-but they said it wasn't hard and from what I've read it is rather straight forward unbolting of EAS struts and then backfilling with the coil overs. The flash module sold with the kit works well. I will note that I've never been able to get the hardwire option of it to work-thus I have a constant red suspension warning light on in the lower left corner of the instrument cluster. I can accept that since it retains terrain response and all the other programs, all of which function well.

The ride is actually quite nice now that the truck has settled in on her springs. To the point where my buddy John who owns Twin Mountain Offroad, and more specifically an owner of a still EAS LR3 actually is adamant that my ride is better than his. I think much of that ties to the need to replace his air struts since the truck is at ~150k but the point is that the quality of ride is not truly negatively affected till you start talking about towing and such, which is a legit concern for many.

To take it a step further, as the link above shows, we did a head to head with his LR3 and mine to examine the commentary I'd been getting about how I'd have 'literally zero' travel (not my words, foolishness on the book of Faces).

So we took both to his offroad park (Eldest daughter in a pink bunny suit is a long story).


Where we put both through their paces on his obstacle course with the specific intent of measuring suspension flex.


Specific measurements found that the front was nearly identical EAS to coil.

Rear on the other hand was a significant delta, 2.5"


What we found, given that both trucks were running the same tires (Terra Grapplers) was the major difference in capability tied more to the fact that his is an HSE with the HD package and thus his locker was the difference in certain sections (mind you we were deliberately pushing the trucks, not picking lines).

If someone is going to wheel one of these as a primary offroader I'd suggest becoming very familiar with trail repairs of the EAS; likely retaining it mind you since it does add some good suspension travel and the cross-linking features.

In my mind I wanted something where I could reduce variables and retain the positive attributes I liked about the vehicle. At the time the cost to upgrade to an AMK, based off parts cost/availability in the UAE, was nearly equal to the conversion kit; and in the back of my mind I knew the nickel and diming of a 100k truck was going to hit again with strut replacement, or EAS block failure, etc. So in my context-for my application-it made sense and I have no regrets. Hopefully this helps others a little if they are thinking about pros/cons and want to get more than just platitudes, I'd stress that my logic isn't universal-it made sense in context, and it may well for others.
r-
Ray
 

Al Blue4.6l

Well-known member
Thanks Ray, good info and reinforces my decision to keep mine on air unless something goes terribly wrong.
 

Ray_G

Well-known member
Thanks Ray, good info and reinforces my decision to keep mine on air unless something goes terribly wrong.

I think if I could have rebuilt or done the compressor swap myself, i.e. if it were now, I don't know that I'd have been as quick to pull the trigger.

Mind you I have no significant regrets-but will miss the towing capability.
All told I'm actually very impressed with the AB/OME +2 kit.
r-
Ray
 

Jburt

Well-known member
So, given the options available now, would you go with a +2 kit instead? I'm likely going to inherit my wife's DD LR3 when she's done with it, and I've told myself I'm going to keep it forever. I always thought I'd coil swap it with the +2. I don't want to spend money again and again on the EAS as we get it past 200K. What would you recommend knowing what you know?
Thanks in advance.
 
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Ray_G

Well-known member
So, given the options available now, would you go with a +2 kit instead? I'm likely going to inherit my wife's DD LR3 when she's done with it, and I've told myself I'm going to keep it forever. I always thought I'd coil swap it with the +2. I don't want to spend money again and again on the EAS as we get it past 200K. What would you recommend knowing what you know?
Thanks in advance.

I did go with the +2; and yes-that is what I'd recommend for almost anyone who does the swap. I can't see too much reason to keep it at stock ride height unless someone is truly just DD'ing it and doesn't want to change tire sizes.

I think you are hitting on an important milestone; as the truck hits its 2nd potential EAS refresh (~200k) is it then worth it?

Probably.

The best thing about it is removing a variable from the reliability equation; you retain the great drivetrain and engine but without having to deal with all the potential issues of the EAS. Not a panacea, but for many it will make sense in their context.
r-
Ray
 

Ren Ching

Active member
Pretty easy to make the "troubles"of the EAS system pretty much non-issues, at least in terms of getting home in the event of a failure. Haven't heard much of valve blocks needing replaced, just the early style compressor and the occasional strut change.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Pretty easy to make the "troubles"of the EAS system pretty much non-issues, at least in terms of getting home in the event of a failure. Haven't heard much of valve blocks needing replaced, just the early style compressor and the occasional strut change.

Valve block failures are way more common than strut failures. I don't think I've ever replaced a front strut on a LR3.
 

Ray_G

Well-known member
Pretty easy to make the "troubles"of the EAS system pretty much non-issues, at least in terms of getting home in the event of a failure. Haven't heard much of valve blocks needing replaced, just the early style compressor and the occasional strut change.

I would parse this a few ways; can you trick the truck by pulling the appropriate fuses after getting her back up inflated, of course (among other techniques to sidestep the EAS). Does that make it a non-issue? I think that depends on perspective, clearly it's an issue or you wouldn't find yourself needing that knowledge as a matter of routine...but of course these are Rovers.

I would point out it is a non-issue for me too, without just limping home to then sort out something.

Another way of looking at the replacement (or rebuild) of the early style compressor and the occasional strut change is when you start looking at the cost of those parts-not to mention labor (if you aren't doing it yourself)-the rationalization for coils becomes clearer, esp given that even after the AMK and new struts that mitigate the aging EAS ride harshness you still have to be prepared to pull fuses F3E, F26E, F35...

Ultimately I don't think there is a clear answer one way or the other, I think it has to be analyzed in context. The reason I posted this is because a lot of folks provide opinion on the conversion, I wanted to relate experience.
r-
Ray
 

Jrose609

Well-known member
Great write-up, Ray.

I'm still waiting for the prices of the LR3 to come down a bit only because I want one and not because I need one.
 

Ray_G

Well-known member
For the sake of updating this to add some more info I'll submit this:
Sag.jpeg

This is the sag that my truck has when the loaded-in this case it has a full set of wheels/tires in the cargo area and some RRC bits (along with the normal fridge, tools, recovery gear). Minor, in my opinion, but I took a pic to illustrate it for those that are considering the swap at some point.

Also worth adding into this update is that Atlantic British has not just the kit that I used, the 'premium kit', which provides ~2" of lift, but also a new 'Heavy Load' kit which also provides the same ~2" of lift but is, as the name indicates, designed for those with more weight on the truck or perhaps for towing. (They also have a standard height kit, but I have no knowledge about it).

Since I'm pretty happy with the front end of my truck despite having a winch bumper, dual battery, OBA and a NOCO battery charger up there I don't think I'll be swapping to the heavy load anytime soon-but I do have a Frontrunner aux fuel tank sitting in my garage that I brought back from Abu Dhabi that sits in the space the spare would normally occupy. I've been reluctant to add that on as I didn't want to put a spacer into the back or what have you-so I started digging on the differences between the 'premium' and the 'heavy load' and for those of us used to OME springs it basically is the MD vs HD:

It would seem AB's premium +2 coil conversion uses the MD springs (OME 2744 (F) & OME 2746 (R)), whereas the heavy load kit has the HD coils (OME 2745 (F) and OME 2746 (R)). The substantive difference being spring rates, with the HD fronts being '+100kg' and the rear being '+constant 200kg.'

The springs are avail for order independently, but Eric noted that would require a call to AB. (If you look around online and use the OME p/n you could always order them separate too-the value of AB is the black box and such, which is not to be understated).

My supposition is the rear springs are linear vice progressive given the 'constant' annotation in the increased spring rate....

So in my case, esp given the price point for the HD rear springs, if/when I decided to add the aux fuel tank on I'll prob just get those springs & change my MD's out for HD.
r-
Ray
 

Ash

Active member
Has anyone put any effort into fitting something like a Fox coilover onto an LR3? I can't imagine it'd be too much of an undertaking, probably just a custom upper mount to go to a more universal pattern.

That'd open the door to much higher quality springs in a variety of rates, plus the ability to dial in preload and some real valving options.

-Ash
 

Ray_G

Well-known member
Has anyone put any effort into fitting something like a Fox coilover onto an LR3? I can't imagine it'd be too much of an undertaking, probably just a custom upper mount to go to a more universal pattern.

That'd open the door to much higher quality springs in a variety of rates, plus the ability to dial in preload and some real valving options.

-Ash

A few folks have discussed it but it hasn't gone anywhere. Given the realities of the weight of the truck I think most find the OME offerings to be more than adequate given the price point. I know for me I'm perfectly happy with it give its usage, I'll keep the Fox's on my D1!
r-
Ray
 

Ash

Active member
A few folks have discussed it but it hasn't gone anywhere. Given the realities of the weight of the truck I think most find the OME offerings to be more than adequate given the price point. I know for me I'm perfectly happy with it give its usage, I'll keep the Fox's on my D1!
r-
Ray

Interesting. I'm actually headed to look at an LR3 this weekend to purchase. If I'm feeling crazy I might take the lead on developing the parts to fit them.

-Ash
 
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