Starting Issue Again

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
After getting the hub at least temporarily fixed, I had to cancel yet another outing this weekend when the Defender decided to revisit the starting issue again.

Turn the key and all the right clicks and such are heard, but nothing happens. The starter simply does nothing.

Sometimes I think it helps to bang on it, or to push the vehicle a few feet and bump it in gear, but it is too inconsistent to know for sure. Other times I have to just wait ten minutes or...?

Similar circumstances made me replace the starter about 8k miles ago. When this started happening again, I checked all the wiring. No improvement. Then I pulled the starter and made sure it was at least clean. No improvement.

Why is this happening? Of all the cars I’ve owned, I’ve never had to replace the starter on anything other than a Land Rover. And could this be some other issue? The ignition switch is also only 13k miles old.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
Are you getting 12v to the starter relay? If not it is your ignition switch or the wiring between it.
If you are getting 12v is the relay closing? If not it is your relay.
Is the cable between the battery and the starter sound? The connections on each end?
If all else is good pull the starter and have Auto Zone/NAPA/O'Reilly test it.
If it has morted buy a new 3.1KW starter from Robert Davis.
 

Cronus

Active member
I replaced my ignition switch a few months back and it was fairly easy and not expensive, plus I got a new set of keys lol...now my 110 starts up quickly every time. I was told they crap out every few years, but others may have a different opinion.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK, these both back up my thinking on this, so I'll see about those tests some time this week. This is a RD starter, not the 3.1kw though.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I replaced my ignition switch a few months back and it was fairly easy and not expensive, plus I got a new set of keys lol...now my 110 starts up quickly every time. I was told they crap out every few years, but others may have a different opinion.
They crap out because they separate (the metal housing from the white part). What I do now is drill tiny holes by the metal indents in the side of the housing (three of them) and put eye glass screws (or any tiny screw) into these new holes. It prevents the sides from separating and I have not lost an ignition switch sense. It’s a shame they make these to wear out. I’m sure it is intentional as it happens so often yet the design hasn’t changed. Fawkers.
 
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