Are they worth to cost and effort of just under the truck bling? I feel like I should have more braking power with discs at all 4 corners than I have now. New master, new pads, new fluid and freshly turned rotors.
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Stainless Steel Flex Brake Lines
- Thread starter javelinadave
- Start date
Brake hoses are a maintenance item, so if they are original, I would replace them. The nicest ones I have seen are the ones from Expedition Exchange.
DefendersNW
Well-known member
Did you rebuild the calipers? (rebuild kit & hone the cylinder if needed)
Discs don't give much more power, but do give longer lasting and more consistent braking.
And the less the flex-line flexes the more pressure is applied to the pistons.
I put a set of the Goodridge plus two ones on most everything we build, not expensive and far better quality than oe.
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Guess I'll swap them in and rebuild the calipers if needed. Rovers Norths Black Friday sale made them a bargain at $89.20 shipped.
Thanks all!
Thanks all!
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Ray_G
Well-known member
I changed mine out to SS when lifting the truck(s), found it a good time to update what was at least a decade old brake lines + then kept the lines as part of the spares bin. (Lesson learned there, having ripped a front brake line out building trails for MAR '09 with Chuck and my truck started going backwards with no pedal response...)
AdamSanta85
Well-known member
They should make the pedal a bit more firm. Try to get coated stainless lines (clear plastic covering over line). They tend to hold up a bit better then non coated. I THINK all the Goodridge kits are coated. Some manufacturers have it as an option.
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Ben Little put a new proportioning valve on his ex-MOD 110 and it's improved his braking. Maybe he'll chime in.
RiftRover
Well-known member
The factory setup has some sort of proportioning, but the valve in my RRC looks like an aftermarket adjustable type that allows the brakes to be biased more to the front. I think that is what makes the difference, but I could be wrong. When you convert the rear from drums to discs, technically you should also change the bias but the factory setup doesn't allow you to do that.
My 110 has the proportioning (G) valve and I believe most others may as well. I replaced the original with a Wilwood valve and my brakes are the shit.
I'm also running new 90 calipers, slotted drilled rotors and rebuilt drums. 100% new lines throughout too..
Here's the valve..
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627/overview/
I'm also running new 90 calipers, slotted drilled rotors and rebuilt drums. 100% new lines throughout too..
Here's the valve..
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627/overview/
Attachments
I think you're correct.
Nice work Ben! It looks like that g valve can be adjusted ? To change bias
The valve on the rear line on the right frame rail is only on the military 110s.
Did you not run your new lines through clips on the frame rail ?
Thanks, Dan. Yes, that is correct.
That's good to know about the mil trucks.
I did - I ended up bending a new bottom line which uses the standard clips.
Can you give me a quick run-down of the procedure? How did you know when you had it set correctly?