Rusty nuts?

hillstrubl

hillstrubl

Founding Member
This is weird... 6 months old or so, both of my front wheels look like this.

What's weirder is the rears seem fine. I'm likely going to order the galvy ones from series-defender.com (thanks for the recco @jymmiejamz ) but I wanted to get the community's take on what's the cause of this?

Yes, they salt the roads by my house, but why only the fronts?

1612408792128.png
 
JimC

JimC

Super Moderator
Staff member
Are those genuine? They look like you put them on totally dry. I tried different approaches one winter with WD40, Ballistol, used oil, fresh oil, and some cold bluing agent i had. The bluing was the worst. The others pretty much washed off. I seemed to favor just reapplying Ballistol
 
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
They are just extremely low quality black oxide. I don't even think the galvanized ones will make this any better. The galve will break and knock off the first time you impact these on and off.

Someone for a little while was making yellow cad plated ones which is extremely strong much better than galv. my brand new wheel nuts that I got from bearmach a year ago here in California look about the same. We've only had about 10 days of rain total since I put them on.
 
hillstrubl

hillstrubl

Founding Member
JimC said:
Are those genuine? They look like you put them on totally dry. I tried different approaches one winter with WD40, Ballistol, used oil, fresh oil, and some cold bluing agent i had. The bluing was the worst. The others pretty much washed off. I seemed to favor just reapplying Ballistol
Click to expand...
Honestly don't remember where I got these from. Half of my query is why are only the fronts looking like this?
 
C

Caligula

Well-known member
driving habits, breaking to stop versus slowing down to a stop. because front rotors do the heaviest duty when breaking, the rotors will heat and heat will transfer, your lugs nuts not being treated will be the weakest link to follow the rust belt created by heat on rotors and hubs.
keep your rear drums well adjusted, make sure your front calipers are not binding, slow down to a stop, avoid riding brakes.
 
erover82

erover82

Well-known member
JimC said:
Are those genuine? They look like you put them on totally dry. I tried different approaches one winter with WD40, Ballistol, used oil, fresh oil, and some cold bluing agent i had. The bluing was the worst. The others pretty much washed off. I seemed to favor just reapplying Ballistol
Click to expand...

I wonder how Loctite 8023 or CorrosionX XD would perform in this application. Both are extremely effective even in marine environments.
 
Angus

Angus

Well-known member
Probably galvanic. There is something in the front brakes/suspension that is using the lug nuts to stop rusting that is not in the rear.
 
1of40

1of40

Well-known member
Caligula said:
driving habits, breaking to stop versus slowing down to a stop. because front rotors do the heaviest duty when breaking, the rotors will heat and heat will transfer, your lugs nuts not being treated will be the weakest link to follow the rust belt created by heat on rotors and hubs.
keep your rear drums well adjusted, make sure your front calipers are not binding, slow down to a stop, avoid riding brakes.
Click to expand...
So, so true. I’m amazed at how some people drive. I have friends that drive so poorly it’s annoying to be in the same car. When I was learning to drive I was told to pump and give the rotors some time to cool. My wife grew up in CO and had to drive this way coming down mountain passes. As a result, we seem to get pretty good life out of our pads and rotors. My wife is prob over 45k on a set of front pads and rotors and 75K on the rears of her LR4. I can’t remember when I changed my pads due to wear on my 90, it’s been many years.
 
The Dro

The Dro

Illustrious
These trucks are rust magnets...

I bought a new set too and they rusted very quickly as well.

The old ones look better now. 🤷‍♂️
 
hillstrubl

hillstrubl

Founding Member
1of40 said:
So, so true. I’m amazed at how some people drive. I have friends that drive so poorly it’s annoying to be in the same car. When I was learning to drive I was told to pump and give the rotors some time to cool. My wife grew up in CO and had to drive this way coming down mountain passes. As a result, we seem to get pretty good life out of our pads and rotors. My wife is prob over 45k on a set of front pads and rotors and 75K on the rears of her LR4. I can’t remember when I changed my pads due to wear on my 90, it’s been many years.
Click to expand...
Growing up one of my friend's moms used the brake pedal digitally. It would loosen fillings.
 
C

Caligula

Well-known member
it took me a while to learn and change habits, in my 20's and 30's I drove European sports cars, took factory driving courses and learned to explore the limits of those vehicles.
at the same time, I learned how to drive big rigs and unfortunately the hard way on how not to drive when loaded. forward to my current age (50's) and now, I train new CDL (truck drivers) on proper techniques of commercial vehicle operation. part of my responsibilities include investigation of incidents and accidents as well as review and remedial training of bad driving habits, not just suggestions.

there are some un-excusable incidents and accidents where my employer will recommend immediate action and correction up to and include immediate termination of an asset, one of those incidents is improper breaking.
the employer will rather settle with an asset (employee) whom has not adhered to rules and regulations, than litigate in court with families of a victim, whose loss or pain has been caused by one of our driver's.
not suggesting I know what to do, rather suggesting I learned the hard way how to do it on a correct manner. how to execute it's up to me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top