Rust stopper

[Tbaumer]

In the process of disassembling my doors and replacing all the seals, rubber, window frame slides, etc.
I would like to stop the progression of multiple areas of rust.
All but a couple spots are pretty minor - see pics.






I'm not planning on a full restore for a few years.
What do you recommend?

This question is not just for my doors, but for rust anywhere.

 

[Dan kemper]

Short of a full restore I would wire wheel the rust spots and encapsulate. Por 15 and similar products work well for this. Any where that is structural cut out and weld in new steel.

 

[Tbaumer]

I was afraid of that - the wire wheel - since much of the rust likes to hide right at the aluminum to steel frame seams.

The accessible rust will be cleared out, but for difficult (or impossible) to reach places, can POR 15 be sprayed on to stop and seal existing rust?

Just Googled it. I can't believe I've never used this stuff!

 

[Dan kemper]

Yes. Stays tacky for a few days and is super hard when dry. Typically brush on

 

[uc4me]

Por15 is great. Another to consider is Fluid Film. http://www.fluid-film.com/ I use and love both.

 

[RBBailey]

If the piece is still strong, but rusted, and can be cleaned, but is still rusty and pitted, the Por15 is what you want. I did a procedure where you can use Por15 and standard UV protective paint over bare metal on a Safari Gard bumper I had a while back. Three years of use and the bumper still looked new. Held up better than powder coating.

If you are looking to keep parts from rusting -- bolts, fittings, behind and inside corners, etc... then you want CorrosionX.

We used to use CorrosionX on the inside of my airplane wings and such. I figure if it is good enough for the airplane, it's probably good enough for the Rover Birmabright. CorrosionX is often part of the kit for both civilian and military aniti-corrosion and anti-rust procedures. I am using it on all the bolts that go through any part of the body panels on the Defender. Captive nuts. Door hinges. Inside the bulkhead. Etc.... Spray it on, the wipe off excess the next day or so, just so it isn't ugly.

 

[CaptMilks]

POR-15 will flow pretty well and get into areas that are hard to get at. Just make sure you follow the instructions and use the prep products prior to the POR-15.

 

[4RF RDS]

Wannakeepit, Formula 3000 is the stuff I use. The Canadian Forces Royal Military College did a scientific study on all commercially available rust protection products and this came out on top. It is not a petrolium based product hence no rubber swelling or degredation to wiring or plastic either.

The Canadian Military uses it on all steel on all vehicles or equipment in water and or salt exposure environments. I have used it to great effect and drive my 110 all year on salt and grit all winter long. I clean and then spray once a year on all of the frame and internals, door panels pulled once every two years. $30 to spray once a year and you can get a kit with the sprayer for $60. Result??? still no rust, anywhere...

https://corrosionfree.com

 

[sandt]

I second Fluid Film. Very popular with state DOTs for plow/salt/sanding trucks.

 

[rover4x4]

Ive always used Ospho and rustoleum, some Wayoyl sparingly.

How would you compare the Fluid Film to Waxoyl?

 

[uc4me]

ACF-50

Has anyone ever used ACF-50 anti-corrosion or know anything about it?

https://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html

 

[Napalm00]

Not knowing anything about it and just by looking at the bottles, it most likely is a more expensive version of ospho or prep and etch with some Associated cleaning agents and paint to go on top.

If you want to save some money. Remove all surface with a wire brush or wire wheel, coat with prep and etch then rinse clean following directions, use self etching primer then topcoat of your choice.

Cheap and works great. All my suspension components were done like this and survived two years daily driving upstate ny before moving to cali. No rust or bubbling and is wear resistant

 

[DefendersNW]

Remove all surface with a wire brush or wire wheel, coat with prep and etch then rinse clean following directions, use self etching primer then topcoat of your choice.

This is the key - time and effort

Either your time and effort, or your cash to buy someone else time and effort to remove the infected metal, repair damage if needed, treat, seal, and protect.

 

[Napalm00]

This is the key - time and effort

Either your time and effort, or your cash to buy someone else time and effort to remove the infected metal, repair damage if needed, treat, seal, and protect.

And with the right tools it's not that much work. I did front radius arms shock mounts axle tubes and rear bars all in a single day with a cordless grinder and a cup wheel.

 

[CDN38]

Has anyone ever used ACF-50 anti-corrosion or know anything about it?

https://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html

ACF 50 is used in the aircraft industry as an anti-corrosion coating on aluminum. needs re-appplying every 3-6 months. They spray interior cavities and exteriors of aircraft with liberal coats of it. (caution on painted surfaces, as it will darken paint) It's non-electro conductive, and all round excellent stuff. I spoke with one of the larger local sea plane operators about it, they swear by it.

Have to figure, aluminum aircraft, running on salt water, very similar to a defender on a salty road.

Using ACF-50 spray underneath all your body capping?s as they are not painted underneath, I have also then sprayed Dinitrol underneath on top of the ACF-50 and will keep spraying at least twice a year just to make sure nothing is corroding.

ACF-50 your bulkhead to bonnet hinges. Brown rust staining from new is present on many Defenders. ACF-50 stops it dead.

Spray also your;
door hinges and fasteners,
bonnet hinges and fasteners,
bulkhead to windscreen hinges,
wiper arms and their bases in particular,
aerial,
screws holding front grill etc,
front lower ali panel,
bumper insides,
body rivets, they can rust in the middle as well as corrode on the outside, most can be treated from inside the vehicle also,
Door seal rivets,
headlight bezels,
radiator brackets and fasteners, fan screws etc etc (alot of this can be sprayed through the grill so you don't need to take it off!),
wing mirror arm fastener cover, just cover it all and wipe off,
exterior part or rear window latch,
inside of towing electrics plug and behind,
rear of lights electrics (mud rots the wires away!)
rear tub door shut metal strip,
rear wheel holder,
engine bulkhead side and all electrics, common rail, brackets, fasteners etc etc being careful not to spray the belt and pulleys,
inner bonnet edges
any nuts and bolt heads, screw etc you can see inside the vehicle. The lower seat belt bracket bolts can rust very quickly for instance,
seat frames brackets are especially worth doing also.

 

[uc4me]

ACF 50 is used in the aircraft industry as an anti-corrosion coating on aluminum...

Good to know. When i saw it was a solution for aluminum, rivets and penetrates oxide deposits (airplanes) i figured it was worth looking into for the Rover. I also like that it's a creeper fluid and safe for electronics. I'm gonna give it a try before I winterize/store my trucks as they live by the ocean and need all the protection they can get.