Rebuilding LT77 trans vs. Replacing with Stumpy R380 HD for 19J

[mitherial]

The LT77 transmission (SN: 54A018xxxE ? E-suffix) on my 1989 Ninety Diesel Turbo 19J has become extremely difficult to shift into first and second gears, causing me to stall-out at stoplights etc.

To change gears, the shifter has to be rocked from side-to-side even when the truck is stationary or off. The reverse-gate and gears 3-5 work fine and the clutch was replaced less than 500 miles ago.

Before I send the truck off to be worked on (single-car garage and full-time job means no transmission work), can anyone help me estimate the relative costs/benefits of rebuilding the LT77 versus taking the opportunity to swap in one of Ashcrofts short-bellhousing stumpy R380s with the HD bearing (which gives me more flexibility for engine options if the current 19J engine bites the dust).

Ashcrofts LT77 rebuild kit is not too bad ($180) but that will be dwarfed by the labor costs, and I am getting tired of putting money into this-old and-busted transmission. How much does it cost to ship an R380 across the pond, or are there quality rebuilt sources stateside?

 

[Red90]

You probably just need to adjust the shifter.

When they fail it is the bearings and is a whole other kettle of fish.

 

[mitherial]

I have messed with the shifter a good bit recently as the set-screw linkage (#18 in the attached picture) kept coming loose due to the force required to shift.

The tower (#1) looks fine, and I have replaced the bushing (#16). Can the settings on the reverse plunger (#14) or 5th gear stop screw (#13) affect shifting into 1st or 2nd? The reverse plunger is functional and it is easy to select reverse. The return to center spring seems fine and lines up with gears 3-4 pretty nicely. The gear lever (#7) visually looks fine.

Am I missing something?

 

[Red90]

Have you read the workshop manual? The reverse plunger must be set correctly as that sets the 1/2 position. You can also have something loose in the selector housing.

 

[mitherial]

Hmm, interesting ? I did read the workshop manual on the reverse-plunger settings, but did not think it would directly impact the 1/2 alignment based on the spacing. I will try adjusting it.

I think everything is tightened (and I replaced all of the internal gaskets for whatever that iss worth), but that?s certainly worth rechecking too.


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[RDavisinVA]

Check the clutch master and slave cylinder to be sure your perceived shifting issue is not a clutch release issue due to failing hydraulics.
This is very very very common and should be verified before making a gearbox change.
If the gearbox has failed for the love of God, replace the transmission and that 19J engine which is the most unreliable engine Land Rover manufactured and should be avoided at every opportunity.

 

[rocky]

Where in the movement of the clutch pedal is it releasing/engaging?

RDavis really likes people to drive to his shop from Greenville SC. There is a thread to prove it. He'll be happy to sell your 19j to the local mafia for a "boat anchor" and install something else.

 

[mitherial]

I haven?t done the workshop manual?s precise calibration measurements yet, but the clutch catches at roughly midway through the pedal?s travel, which I would assume is about normal. Don?t really know enough about the clutch master/slave cylinders to be able to evaluate their condition.

The return spring on the clutch pedal is something fierce compared to other manual vehicles I have driven.



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[RDavisinVA]

So you are not sure where you are and really can't accept any sound advice...

 

[mitherial]

After taking the truck out for a test drive on watching how I operated the clutch, it appears I was incorrect -- the clutch is catching very near the full-release (i.e. minimal foot pressure) on the clutch pedal. The catch feels fine (no grinding), but I will take apart the assembly and adjust as soon as time permits.

Thanks to everyone for their input -- I would be completely lost at sea with Land Rover ownership without forums like this one. Meanwhile my truck slowly approaches drivability...

 

[Uncle Douglas]

Your statement that you know little about your clutch master or slave or their condition is where the train jumps the tracks here.

Your clutch system is hydraulic.

Where the clutch catches relative to pedal position has everything to do with these two components and the condition of the fluid in them.

The advice others have given you above was based on their assumption you have a properly bled system with no air , or leaks. You should adjust nothing until you have someone who does know something about how these work and how to bleed them has checked them out. It's dirt simple but again adjust nothing if your system is not full of clear fresh fluid and you are certain there are no leaks or air in the system.

Another possibility is if you have just had work done is that the wrong throw out bearing was used, have seen this before and clutches typically last 1000-1500 miles before needing replacement if properly matched components aren't used.