Rear upper control arm replacement

phunter

Well-known member
Anyone willing to school me on how this is done. Things to watch out for. I’m a rookie mechanic but willing to try. Unless someone says this is not for the novice .
 

expanse

Well-known member
uppers are not hard at all. a rookie can do these in their sleep. the hardest part; the bolts that seize and need to be cut out via sawzall and hate. get a few expensive blades with low tooth count. cost somewhere near $15-20 but work well. fine tooth blades and you'll be there till christmas. remove level rod, hard brake line, soft brake hose clip, impact bolt @ top of knuckle or cut, cut 2bolts @ frame. watch out for the silly thin wires floating around near frame rail. easy to lick'em with a hot saw blade. if needed cut the old arms off to get a better angle for the saw. fit new stuff, bleed brakes, alignment. beer.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
My experience has been that the uppers only fail in areas with a lot of rust. I’ve never replaced a set that didn’t have to be cut out.
 

phunter

Well-known member
Thanks for the replies. I hope the play in this arm is responsible for the dsc kicking in around turns as per my other post regarding dsc system. The upper bushings do have play leading to wheel play
Gonna go get those pricy blades
 

broncoduecer

Technical Excellence Contributor
How did it go overall? Were both bushings shot? What were your symptoms?
Did you buy a kit or get the parts separately?
 

phunter

Well-known member
so much play in wheel that dcis would kick in going around turns. the job was not difficult once get right blade. lennox brand carbide tipped or Milwaukee brand was not very good. a trip grainger led to diablo demon blade which made it much easier. I wouldn't waste time trying to get bolts out if corroded. even if get nut off could not get bolt out.
 
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