Rear end SWAP
- Thread starter Boswalt
- Start date
Staufferdave
Member
Just did a 94 into my 86. Straight swap
You will probably have to slightly rebend the hard lines but that is about it. The connections should be the same and as for a proportioning valve some have installed one and others haven't. Good luck and start spraying penetrating oil on the hardware to be removed if it is rusty. Also a nice write-up with pictures would very much be appreciated by future axle swappers.
It depends on the year I think. Not certain about whether the drum have 3/8-24 line nuts. The disc are metric. The main line going to the three-way union has metric fittings, and I think the three way union is also metric, but it might not be. I'd say that you aught to put new lines on the axle while you're doing the job and use the cupronickel type so that you don't have to worry about it.
Boswalt
Well-known member
My truck is an EXMOD and all the lines are original. I need to redo them all but not sure what that entails.
I think you can buy the cupronickel lines already made to fit. Do a search and you'll probably find someplace that sells them. Otherwise you can get everything you need for the project at fedhillusa.com. You will need to get the 3//16th tubing, and the flare nuts. If you don't have the flaring tool, they will loan you one or you can get one fairly cheap (but fiddly) that will do the trick. You need a tool that can make DIN and bubble type flares in addition to the standard SAE 45 degree double.
The nuts are 10mm X 1, or 3/8" x 24 unf with non-threaded lead (these are listed in the British Girling section). If you order a couple of each then you're golden.
Keep in mind that the bulk line comes rolled. You have to straighten it out. The easy method is to clamp one end in a sturdy vice (or in my case clamp it to the tongue of the wood chipper), and the other end with vice grips. While pulling really hard on the tube, you smack the vice grips with a hammer. This tugs on the tubing and ever so slightly stretches it, pulling it laser straight. Then you cut the smushed ends off and proceed.
Another thing. Once you bend the stuff, that's it. It immediately work hardens in the area of the bend and you cannot ever get it back straight again.
The nuts are 10mm X 1, or 3/8" x 24 unf with non-threaded lead (these are listed in the British Girling section). If you order a couple of each then you're golden.
Keep in mind that the bulk line comes rolled. You have to straighten it out. The easy method is to clamp one end in a sturdy vice (or in my case clamp it to the tongue of the wood chipper), and the other end with vice grips. While pulling really hard on the tube, you smack the vice grips with a hammer. This tugs on the tubing and ever so slightly stretches it, pulling it laser straight. Then you cut the smushed ends off and proceed.
Another thing. Once you bend the stuff, that's it. It immediately work hardens in the area of the bend and you cannot ever get it back straight again.
Noyac40
Well-known member
I have been reading about the Sals disc conversion in various threads and it looks complicated. The straight swap looks like what I want to do as well for my LHD 110. What's the ballpark cost of a disc sals (new lines aside as I need them anyway)? Also assuming that they need to be sourced from 1994 or newer?