Rear Brake Upgrade

[RBBailey]

The expensive way without spacers as ordered from LRDirect. But you'd have to add the seals and bearings and little bits for a total of about $1000 without shipping. Or the Lucky8 way, which seems a good deal, but I'd like to see a parts list of what is in the kit: https://www.lucky8llc.com/products/land-rover-defender-rear-drum-brake-to-disc-brake-conversion-kit

PRODUCT DETAILS	PRICE	TOTAL
RUB500240 HUB Remove Item	$205.81	$411.62
FTC1725 SHAFT AXLE Remove Item	$113.41	$113.41
FTC1740 Stub Axle Rear Remove Item	$75.85	$151.70
STC1268 Brake Caliper RH Remove Item	$44.93	$44.93
STC1269 Brake Caliper LH Remove Item	$44.93	$44.93
FTC3846 BRAKE DISC - REAR Remove Item	$30.66	$61.32
SFP000280 BRAKE PAD SET REAR Remove Item	$29.84	$89.52

Subtotal:

$917.43

 

[LiquidMoose]

Holy crap, the price of those hubs is crazy!
You can do better here...https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/assembly-ftc942-rub101740-rub500240-ftc860-ftc0942-p-330.html
With shipping I doubt you'll be more than half the price you list. Same goes for the stub axle. Why pay more!?

 

[javelinadave]

There is a lot to be said about one stop shopping. #lucky8

 

[RBBailey]

Yeah. I’m waiting to hear back from Lucky8 to see if it would be the kit I want. Other option is to get used hubs at least, new other bits.

 

[jackstraw]

Weighing the options. Even if what I’ve got going on is relatively simple, should I take this as an opportunity to upgrade to disc brakes in the rear?

I know a few people who have done it without swapping axles, by just using the hub from a Disco or something.

But I’ve also heard people discussing putting Disco axles in. So.... what is the advantage to swapping to a Disco rear axle? What needs to be done to the Defender to get this done? And what type of cost am I looking at if I could get the axle for free and it has no problems — hypothetically.

I have a disc set up on my one ten, Parts are now easy to get now locally. They perform better than my old drum set, I imagine cause the old set up was in need of replacement on all levels.

 

[Napalm00]

Check the other site for Info on that "kit" from lucky 8 . It's far from complete

 

[RBBailey]

That’s why I was waiting to hear from him. I asked for a parts list. They are out off roaring for the weekend though. Either way, I am going to start getting parts this week.

 

[RBBailey]

This project is really not very hard. But what I'm having issue with is getting the parts all figured out. I've never been very good at figuring out part numbers and such, and when I look up a part, and there are four versions of it, with no description, just numbers, and just generic images, I get totally lost. So, I think this is the list for how to do it using a 7mm spacer between the axle and the caliper bracket, but the more I look at it, the more potential I see for getting a pile of parts, none of which actually work together.

Here's what I've got so far if I want to do the job on a budget by using a spacer and reusing the stubs and the shafts that are currently on the Salisbury axle:

• 7mm spacer between caliper mount and axle housing. (Will have to make one)
• Front hubs from a 90/110, I think: FRC6139 (...right? I'd like to get these used, but I'm not sure if these are the same as Disco/RRC hubs? Front? Rear? Either?)
• Caliper mount: FTC3306
• Calipers for rear of Defender 110: STC1268
• Discs and Pads to match the Calipers: LR017953
• New brake lines of some kind. I assume they would be NRC7905 for one side, but may have to make my own for the other side.
• New set of bearings and seals and washers, but I don't know which since I don't know what hub I am trying to match.
• Various bolts and nuts.

 

[RBBailey]

Ryan let me crawl under his truck today! So I think my list is correct. It always helps my brain to see it in person instead of trying to put it together with part numbers that might be superceeded or one of two options, etc...

 

[Napalm00]

You need both left and right calipers. Two different pns

Hub seal from earlier in the thread, like stated above it's the same fitment all hubs

Set37 bearings x 4

Custom brake lines are easier

Your gonna need the caliper to bracket bolts they are special x4

 

[RBBailey]

Yeah, I just posted the one number for the one side.

Yes on the bolts. I believe there is a place in town that has grade 10 bolts that I can select from to make sure I have the right length. I'm going to buy the original caliper to bracket bolts.

I'm looking forward to doing this. Seeing it on a 1984 Defender this evening just looked so good. It's the right thing to do. I'll actually make purchases tomorrow.

 

[Napalm00]

Great looking good then. There are two different style of caliper to bracket bolt with two different threads I'm not sure which one this takes, just as an assumption probably the earlier one

 

[Napalm00]

I just saw your other post on the other site about your stub axle. If you are keeping the same drum length axle shafts then you need to keep drum length hubs and drum length stub axles like previously stated.

So if your stub axle is fucked up replace it with the same exact stub axle because it's the one that you will be using when you convert.

Remember you neither need to keep all of the factory wide space components that are from your early truck, everything OR convert everything to narrow spacing which would include the hubs the stub shafts and the axle shafts

 

[RBBailey]

So if your stub axle is fucked up replace it with the same exact stub axle because it's the one that you will be using when you convert.

Remember you neither need to keep all of the factory wide space components that are from your early truck, everything OR convert everything to narrow spacing which would include the hubs the stub shafts and the axle shafts

Right, I actually answered my own question by looking at some of the photos people posted on the conversion. One of them has the same stub axles I have, so I figured the length was acceptable.

I'm going to get new seals, but I think my bearings are still good. I'll know for sure once I pull it all apart. But I can get bearings locally anyway.

 

[Napalm00]

You will probably want buy new bearings because you'll be putting the races into the new hubs. The bearings are really inexpensive there's no point in reusing them really because you'll probably end up damaging them trying to remove them replace the races

It will also save a ton of dirty work , but that's up to you

 

[RBBailey]

OK, so I ordered the parts for this project except for the new brake lines that I'll need to make, a few of the bolts that will need to be sourced locally once I get the exact measurements, and the pads and rotors. For some reason, I had a memory block on which pads and rotors I was supposed to order, so I just left them out of this shipment figuring they would be something that I could pick up pretty easily later. I picked up two of the stub axles of the type that are currently on my vehicle because I know that one of them is pitted and needs replacing, and for $22 more I'm betting that the other side could be replaced as well.

FRC8540
Land Rover Stub Axle
2
$ 44.52

STC1268R
Land Rover Calumper Rear 110 Rh Def
1
$ 45.27

STC1269R
Land Rover Calumper Rear 110 Lh Def
1
$ 45.27

SYP500090
Land Rover Rear Calumper Bolt Def 1987 Onwards
5
$ 2.90

UYG500030
Land Rover Bolt M10 Rear Disc Shield Def
10
$ 5.30

FTC3306
Land Rover Calumper Mount Bracket Def 110
2
$ 105.78

I expect the total cost to add up to about $500. Considering that as it is, I really should replace the shoes and drums anyway, and probably both stub axles, not a bad deal.

 

[RBBailey]

Other than a few fixings, the bearings, seals, and the brake lines, the only thing I have left to buy are the pads, rotors, and the hubs.

So before ordering my last bits, I just want to make sure:

• I'm now needing Defender rear brake pads and rotors, like: FTC3846 for the rotor? and SFP000280 for the pads?
• I need a set of hubs from the front of a Defender--but for one reason or another, I'm unclear if the RRC and Disco hubs also work? So... FRC6139 or RUB500240?

P.S. This demonstrates why I can't figure out the parts with just numbers. The brake pads SFP000280 vs. SFP000250.... In a situation like that, how can I make sure I'm getting the right part?

 

[Red90]

FRC6139 is wide.
RUB500240 is narrow. Disco hubs are narrow.

SFP000280 is pre-TD5 facelift. SFP000250 is post-TD5 facelift. Rear 110 brakes changed at that time.

 

[RBBailey]

FRC6139 is wide.
RUB500240 is narrow. Disco hubs are narrow.

SFP000280 is pre-TD5 facelift. SFP000250 is post-TD5 facelift. Rear 110 brakes changed at that time.

So, FRC6139 for the hubs.
And SFP000280 pads with FTC3846 discs. ...Right?

 

[Airbalancer]

If you have the Defender parts catalog it lists all the parts you need for a stock bolt on option. A bit more money but no guesswork involved.

I