No more clunking? Anyone tried solid halfshafts?

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I will say with my new ashcroft LT230 with the ATB center there is absolutely zero play in my driveline.

After purchasing it and buying a trans from them I still don't think I would buy either from Ashcroft anymore. Quality control was extremely poor, they both leak, Winchester gears just seems to make a better product now
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I have 2 hand soap dispensers in my garage. One is filled with Goop and the other with Dawn. Dawn dish soap is my favorite hand soap of all time. "Dawn--takes grease out of your way". It is so effective on oil, that they still use it to this day to remove oil from birds that get fouled by oil slicks. Dawn in particular. Just works. The Goop is the for when I need grit.
 

Classic4X4

Well-known member
I get where your heads at— and it’s a tough job removing drive train slack. the Banging is most likely your aframe ball joint, but the slack... unfortunately there is an abysmal amount (relatively) that is in nearly all trans/transfer cases so even with near perfect axles, diffs, flanges, uj’s, you will still get some from there and the natural backlash in the diffs that will be there (intentional—small but there...)☹️. I’m not going to discourage you from doing all those things though! Still great to have your truck so up to snuff, but will say if the parts look good (as the above do), keep them as spares for yourself of others! Im accused by wife of being a pack rat. Every time she sees me put away rusted steel bits she literally goes “Squeak Squeak!”. And yet now that I’m doing another repower, lo and behold I have all 4 of the trans mounts in a box that I need (who knew?)! let us know the outcome! I bet it’ll be loads better, just don’t be too discouraged when you can still rotate your driveshaft a bit when parked.

I'm a bit of a pack rat myself ;) I'm sure there will be a "garage cleanout" thread here at some point.

As long as I can get rid of this clunk I'll be happy!

It doesn't feel like there's too much actual mechanical slack. I know the diffs were pulled and "rebuilt" ~2015.

Growing up, my rowing buddy had a '94 soft top his family bought new, I'd drive it all the time and it definitely had a drivetrain slack if you weren't gentle with the clutch. That truck was pretty new/low miles so I think that was a decent gauge of what's "normal".

I always read about the A frame ball joint and figured mine was fine (wrong) as the PO did polybushes and new suspension. New ball joint coming Monday. I'm going to try to put it in the second it lands!

It's hard for me to gauge the drivetrain feel with the clunk - If it still feels a little sloppy after the ball joint ill go after the input gear and see how it's doing.

I've been able to drive this thing clunk-free by feathering the clutch so I don't think anything's been wearing out due to slack. I know when one set of splines goes in a drivetrain it starts to eat away at everything else.

Cant thank you guys enough for the all the advice!
 

Classic4X4

Well-known member
I'm the same way but I found a trick years ago. Before your hands get dirty, rub a small squirt of equal parts lotion and dish soap into your hands until "dry". Then when you do wash your hands, the grease lifts right off.

Will definitely be trying this. I've also got the big pump bottle of fast-orange next to the garage door - has been a life saver
 

Classic4X4

Well-known member
I will say with my new ashcroft LT230 with the ATB center there is absolutely zero play in my driveline.

After purchasing it and buying a trans from them I still don't think I would buy either from Ashcroft anymore. Quality control was extremely poor, they both leak, Winchester gears just seems to make a better product now
I was looking at the ashcroft T-Cases - nice that you can customize gearing. I thought they don't deliver overseas? I would've sent them my unit so I could keep the numbers.
 

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Ok - greasable A frame ball joint from Gwyn Lewis installed - seems like a really high quality part - the clunk is GONE.

Really incredible considering some local "Defender Specialists" told me I need to rebuild the diff (Which I know was done a few years ago)

Found it hard to believe the castle nut is only tightened until the split pin hole is visible (as per RN's video) - I gave it a couple extra turns before putting the pin in. Just till it felt snug.

Anyway, now that the clunk is gone I'm able to feel how the drivetrain really operates and there's just a hair of slack. Really feels like a new truck.

Still thinking of going through the works to get it as solid as can be.

On another note - the rear OME springs went in. ARB recommended taller front spring on drivers side and taller rear on fuel side. right now its sitting all sorts of f'd up - rear driver's side sitting 1" higher - I have a feeling the front springs are going to level it out, and if not perfect - ARB has sent me some spacers.

If anyone's got a clunk you need to go after the ball joint - 1 hour job for a totally different driving experience.

I ended up having to jack the rear of the diff up a tad to align the two bolts that hold the housing to the A frame.

Cheers!
 
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rover4x4

Well-known member
Years ago I fiddled with "handed" springs from Expedition Exchange, I believe I have the "taller" 764s on the rear of my truck, I am using DII "isolaters" on the rear and rubber shock tower rings up front. My passenger side sat a little higher, but I have not measured in years. I will measure and report back. This thread had me check underneath and I discovered a torn a-frame ball joint, maybe I will fix is this year... What springs are you using?
 
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