No gears, rolls in park!

jmkinggg

Member
I have a 93 Range Rover Classic 4.2. Last night I was driving and went from a red light to green light accelerated and then all of the sudden no gears at all and it has the semi loud spinning noise as if something isn't connected. It rolls in park. Shifting the transfer case did nothing either. Everything I've read has said either the transfer case or the rear diff could be to blame. Is there any information you can offer on this? Suggestions? Is it a good thing that no gears work? I've never had a tranny just go out completely without having reverse or another gear for a little longer. Thanks so much! Any information would be greatly appreciated.

93 range rover 4.2 approx 82k miles (probably rolled over)
 

Viton

Well-known member
Thinking out loud here ....
The park pawl is at the back (rear output)of the Zf4HP22 next to the shift valve control body, but if it's not locking in P, the problem has to be upstream of the final output of the transmission, which would mean it's internal in the trany, which is highly unlikely. Being that this transmission is HIGHLY reliable, the problem is probably in the transfer case.

Looking for the simplest cause 1st, I'd make sure the shift cable is fully intact (could be stuck in N) and the cable is broken. Then the high/low range shift mechanism is fully functional, this is probably the cause. There is a link/bar connector external off of the shift body that is really weak, I found mine to be almost broken one day, and welded it back together just before it was on the verge of breaking.
 

Red90

Well-known member
Have someone look at the driveshafts as you try and move and see if one of them is spinning. That will point to the broken axle. Not likely the transfer case unless you popped it into neutral....
 

jmkinggg

Member
Thanks for the quick reply guys. I'm going to take a video of the noise its making to see if that can help with narrowing down the issue further. The noise is a semi loud spinning noise not like grinding. Need to get the truck back on the road asap!
 

Red90

Well-known member
Don't waste your time with noises and videos. They never help.

Look underneath for spinning driveshafts.
 

jmkinggg

Member
Ok guys. I've determined the spinning whine is coming from the transfer case. There is no spinning of the driveshafts when the truck is in drive, reverse etc. Drained tcase fluid and it was brown milkyish, it now has fresh fluid. Thoughts? Thanks!
 

jmkinggg

Member
I've moved the shifter in the cab for the tcase from H to N to L several times and it seems I can feel something barely grabbing and making noise when going back into H but I'm not sure if anything else is happening. I've checked under the truck at the linkage and all seems to still be attached.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
Are you moving the lever to the left (Diff Lock)? If not you need to and try to drive forward and back.
 

Viton

Well-known member
I've moved the shifter in the cab for the tcase from H to N to L several times and it seems I can feel something barely grabbing and making noise when going back into H but I'm not sure if anything else is happening. I've checked under the truck at the linkage and all seems to still be attached.
The linkage strap, it's about 2" long and 1/2" wide and bent on the ends to almost a 180 degree, wrap back onto itself, is really weak. I just happened to have my console off & noticed it had a serious crack in it that I was able to repair with my welder. You may have to remove the console to get a straight on look at what's going on as you move the H-N-L & Lock cycle to solve the problem.

You mention the oil looked like chocolate milk, that is caused from water getting in & mixing with the TC oil, so you have a place (or places) where the oil is getting in the TC also.
 

O2batsea

Well-known member
First off, the ODO has to pass a million miles to "roll over" so you probably have only the 82K on it.
Second, The transfer case is probably the original Borg Warner so there's no diff lock.
I have had this happen in one of my previous RRC loobs. On Christmas Day pulling out of the Chinese restaurant (it was packed with people by the way!). It was accompanied by a pretty good bang. I never actually diagnosed the problem but I'm pretty sure I broke the drive chain in the transfer case. That truck went straight off to be parted out by my buddy Rob.
So I would plan to get the transfer case out of there. This is an excellent opportunity to switch to an LT230. You will need the shifter off a D1. If you can find a transfer case locally then this shouldn't cost you anything more than a few hundy and some elbow grease. Repairing the Borg Warner will be, to say the least, expensive. Possibly even impossible as the parts are really difficult to come by. The viscous coupling I mean. There's no point in rebuilding without putting in a new VC and they just aren't out there.
So, happy wrenching!
 

jmkinggg

Member
Yes, I am attempting too but it doesnt seem to be going to far left or right. Hard to tell if anything is actually happening. Thoughts?
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
It won't move left or right, should only move forward and back.

In a very real way, you literally could be in neutral on the transfer case. Sometimes the handle will feel like it is pushed all the way one way or another, but won't really be in full position. Then it will pop out to neutral, and you're just spinning the engine. But this usually only happens when you've been going back and forth, and don't get it into position. If it happened randomly, you may have some kind of broken part of the linkage keeping the lever in position.

Maybe I'm pointing you in the wrong direction, though, others here know lots more about this than I do.
 

Viton

Well-known member
So I would plan to get the transfer case out of there. This is an excellent opportunity to switch to an LT230. You will need the shifter off a D1. If you can find a transfer case locally then this shouldn't cost you anything more than a few hundy and some elbow grease.
I have concerns about the (1) final output shaft of the existing Zf4HP22, (2) the rear housing bolt on portion of the trany, and (3) the shift control valve in that rear housing. These components may be different than those that mate up with Borg TC, VS a LT230. Then positionally the length may require different length drive shafts. Probably the best situation would be to get a transmission & transfer case from specifically a 1997 D1 that is being sold as a single unit. It should have all the necessary parts provided it's still a complete unit. These are commonly available. The '97 trany will be the LT230Q unit with improved quiet gearing, a ratio of 1.2 and the cross drilled output shaft. Then only drive shaft lengths and TC to frame support would have to be dealt with.
 

Kevin88RRC

Well-known member
It won't move left or right, should only move forward and back.

In a very real way, you literally could be in neutral on the transfer case. Sometimes the handle will feel like it is pushed all the way one way or another, but won't really be in full position. Then it will pop out to neutral, and you're just spinning the engine. But this usually only happens when you've been going back and forth, and don't get it into position. If it happened randomly, you may have some kind of broken part of the linkage keeping the lever in position.

Maybe I'm pointing you in the wrong direction, though, others here know lots more about this than I do.
Also while attempting to check transfer case, trans needs to be in neutral. There should be warning chime when the t-case is in neutral but they do not always work so do not rely on it.
 

O2batsea

Well-known member
I have concerns about the (1) final output shaft of the existing Zf4HP22, (2) the rear housing bolt on portion of the trany, and (3) the shift control valve in that rear housing. These components may be different than those that mate up with Borg TC, VS a LT230. Then positionally the length may require different length drive shafts. Probably the best situation would be to get a transmission & transfer case from specifically a 1997 D1 that is being sold as a single unit. It should have all the necessary parts provided it's still a complete unit. These are commonly available. The '97 trany will be the LT230Q unit with improved quiet gearing, a ratio of 1.2 and the cross drilled output shaft. Then only drive shaft lengths and TC to frame support would have to be dealt with.
No issues. It bolts right up to the zf and there are no other changes. same drive shafts etc. I know cz I did it. Only thing is the transfer case shifter from the RRC doesn't have to diff lock selection so you need a D1 transfer case shifter.
 
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