Newbie Grease Question

[Eugene.in.ut]

I was looking at the install for a boost pin and noticed that the guy that installed used grease on the pin during install.

I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on the grease, or if any multi-use grease would work for this application.

Along with that, as I'm getting into the engine and greasing things up, are there any places I should be greasing up both engine and anywhere else?

Apologies if this is a ridiculously easy question to answer, but the further into wrenching I get the less I seem to know.

 

[Napalm00]

Any grease really, needs a very minor amount.

I actually just use the grease to tell if the actuator is riding all the way up the pin. It leaves a track I pull the boost pin back out and make sure it's going all the way up.

 

[Eugene.in.ut]

Awesome, thank you! And now onto another question regarding boost pin. I got into the boost pin and I can’t seem to get it out. I’m concerned it’s a seized governor, but I’m reading that a 200TDI’s boost pin might require you to push down and jimmy it around a little to get it to release. Any thoughts?

 

[Napalm00]

Are you saying that you can't remove the stock pin and diaphragm?

If so rotate and yank hard, there's a lip at the bottom of the stock pin.

 

[Eugene.in.ut]

Will yank away today and see what happens! Is there a specific spot to yank from?

 

[Napalm00]

Under the diagram metal plate

 

[Eugene.in.ut]

Attempted yanking and boost pin is really stuck in there.

It goes up and down but can’t seem to get it to wiggle out.

Will attempt to remove the rubber diaphragm and ply it out?

 

[Napalm00]

Attempted yanking and boost pin is really stuck in there.

It goes up and down but can’t seem to get it to wiggle out.

Will attempt to remove the rubber diaphragm and ply it

Prying on it is just going to bend the actuator cam . The actuator cam has a pin that rides on the boost pin. That is what is catching on the lip.

You can disassemble the front of the pump or try and slide a small screwdriver with the diaphragm removed to push the actuator back. I'm not sure if you can see it with the diaphragm removed and the pin pulled up.

If you look at an exploded view of the injection pump you'll be able to see the pin that I'm talking about that rides on the boost pin. It comes in perpendicular.


If the pump is that hard to wrangle it probably is in need of a rebuild anyway.

 

[Eugene.in.ut]

To be frank, I think I'm the issue for the actuator cam being the way it is now. I was trying to yank the pinout and felt something give in almost a clicking manner.

I am going to give the small screwdriver a try to see if I can't get the actuator to go back down and see if I can remove it.

Otherwise, I think I might have created a much larger project than removing the boost pin...

Thanks as always for the insights!

 

[Eugene.in.ut]

So, popped off the rubber diaphragm and can’t seem to get anything in there. Noticed a brass looking piece I haven’t seen in any videos.
It looks like it has threading, could this be unscrewed to allow a tiny screw driver in?

 

[Napalm00]

At 15:01 you will see the actuator pin that it's hung up on and the lip on the stock boost pin


When the throttle arm is pulled the actuator pin will move towards the boost pin. The boost pin limits the amount of fuel depending on how high or low the pin is riding in it's shaft relative to the boost that is pushing on the diaphragm from above.

 

[Napalm00]

I think the armature is also accessible from the front of the pump but it would require you to mark the throttle actuator arm and remove it and then remove the plug to get access to the back of the actuator arm. I have a spare pump and if you can't get it figured out I'll try this myself and let you know

Putting the throttle actuator arm on and off the pump is a huge pain in the ass because it's spring loaded

 

[Napalm00]

So I went ahead and checked it anyway and I was right.

If you remove this plug you can see the back the arm, hook a pick on it and pull it back then the boost pin should be free.

Be extremely careful to mark the position of the center post for the actuator arm relative to its place when the actuator arm is touching the idle screw.

I already removed the actuator arm for these photos so you can see but it is spring-loaded so once you remove it make sure that you don't touch the shaft or you're going to have to send your pump out for recalibration.

 

[Eugene.in.ut]

This is insanely helpful. Thanks for the link, photos, and for pulling the FIP apart!

Spent the better part of the last 5 hours getting the injection pump out. It’s free mostly in good shape, but it is caked in dirt and gunk.

The fuel nozzle connected to cylinder three is completely gunked up with crud. I’m assuming the fuel lines will need to be cleaned, and I think you’re right that the FIP will probably need a rebuild.

Also noticed rusty looking liquid in the governor housing after trying to snag the actuator.

Taking it to some injection specialists recommended by GBR to see if I can’t get the FIP serviced since I don’t think I will have the free time to rebuild it in the next month or two.

 

[Napalm00]

Rebuilding one of these you really can't even do at home. It needs highly specialized metering equipment after it's reassembled.

If you strike out with locals I know a few places that can get the job done going to be around 600 for rebuild. Anit cheap but it's literally a once in a lifetime thing with one of these pumps

 

[Eugene.in.ut]

Will let you know how it goes with the locals!