Need More Heat

[SMac]

I've lived in fairly temperate climates since I've had the Defender so this is a new issue for me. With temps in the 20s (or lower with wind chill), the ole 90 could not supply enough heat to defrost the windows or myself at speeds over 35. And I've never noticed it before, but I get cold air on defrost.

Trying to figure out what I can do, from invasive to quick fixes, to get heat at speed. Any suggestions? Is there an issue with the 90? Coolant level is fine and no perceived overheating issues with the lump.

I was thinking of the following: 1. Thermostat swap. 2. Radiator blanket. 3. Port match core through bulkhead. 4. Insulating (Have the molded matting for front and rear, not installed). 5. Run stand alone power to blower. 6. Heated windshield. 7. MudUK defrost thingamabob 8. Pellet stove in load space....

Also, these Trucklite LEDs of the non-heated type are indeed worthless in snow/ice conditions.

 

[chris snell]

Your heat exchanger is probably full of mud. It's a total pain-in-the-ass job but you probably need to open up the heater box (rivets) and replace the exchanger. They get a lot of dirt on them because there's no filter between them and the vertically-facing wing intake. Dirt + moisture = mud and poor heat conduction.

 

[CaptMilks]

What engine are you running? The Tdi's do not like to warm up. A radiator muff does wonders. Also a block heater makes the starting easier and gets you the heat faster. If you have a lot of mileage on the heating system a good check of the system components might help. Heater core replacement, as mentioned above, may also help. How is the blower motor working?

 

[jymmiejamz]

I would focus on sealing up the cabin unless you have an actual problem with the heating system.

 

[RDavisinVA]

We are working on a center console that will house an auxiliary heater/AC unit that will blow heat and AC into the rear of the vehicle.

You didn't mention what engine you have.
You can install a diesel heater that will cook your interior with a lot of heat.
I think there are also models that run off petrol.
Webasto & Eberspacher are the main manufacturers, but there are also some Russian and Chinese copies available.

 

[rocky]

I would focus on sealing up the cabin unless you have an actual problem with the heating system.

Thats #1 on the list. Now you don't say if yours is a HT or ST but if you can put up some kind of drop curtain behind the front seats to reduce the volume of air needing heat.

Looking at your picture, a heated windshield would be an investment worth considering.

 

[Jrose609]

I've lived in fairly temperate climates since I've had the Defender so this is a new issue for me. With temps in the 20s (or lower with wind chill), the ole 90 could not supply enough heat to defrost the windows or myself at speeds over 35. And I've never noticed it before, but I get cold air on defrost.

Trying to figure out what I can do, from invasive to quick fixes, to get heat at speed. Any suggestions? Is there an issue with the 90? Coolant level is fine and no perceived overheating issues with the lump.

I was thinking of the following: 1. Thermostat swap. 2. Radiator blanket. 3. Port match core through bulkhead. 4. Insulating (Have the molded matting for front and rear, not installed). 5. Run stand alone power to blower. 6. Heated windshield. 7. MudUK defrost thingamabob 8. Pellet stove in load space....

Also, these Trucklite LEDs of the non-heated type are indeed worthless in snow/ice conditions.

Welcome to Idaho weather!

Pretty sure you still have the stock V8. I would check your thermostat first. It's an easy job.

Like Chris said, your heat exchanger is probably full of 20 years with of "yuck."

I would install one of the molded floor/tunnel insulation kits. Works well in the summer and winter. Also seal up any air leaks. It's amazing how much difference a sealed cab will make.

I bought an Espar heater to install. My 110 with 200tdi doesn't heat the cab area at all. Was hoping to install this summer, but it didn't happen.

 

[rovercolorado]

What engine are you running? The Tdi's do not like to warm up. A radiator muff does wonders. Also a block heater makes the starting easier and gets you the heat faster. If you have a lot of mileage on the heating system a good check of the system components might help. Heater core replacement, as mentioned above, may also help. How is the blower motor working?

I'm with everyone so far. I live in Colorado and lived in central Washington state for a couple of years and a marginal working heating system really sucks.
I just installed a heating pad on the oil pan and it helped a lot. Next up will be a block heater. After that will be a heated windscreen.
Next year before the snow falls again I'll be rebuilding the whole heating system with upgraded fan, core and maybe a larger hole for more air volume.
Insulate inside and cover up and preheat everything else.

 

[SMac]

Thanks for the suggestions, all. It's the 97 NAS SW that's keeping me frosty!

I replaced the core with a genuine unit in 2013 I want to say, and it's been parked in garages or the desert since then, so no real leaves to speak of.

I would love to put a heated windshield in but I've gotten 3 chips in this windshield in 3 months. The factory heated windshields in late model Rovers seem fairly robust though, maybe it's also the rake of the windshield that helps them.

Blower seems to do its job well on defrost, though the air is cold. On heat, there is much less volume and tepid heat.

I will focus on insulating the cabin but need to figure out why Im getting cold air on defrost and low air volume/temp on heat. Ill check out the air intake for the heater core, change out thermostat and flush the Coolant. Perhaps an auxiliary heater is in my future.

 

[RDavisinVA]

You need to see if bleeding the air out of the heater core will help if there is any trapped.
Also make sure the control cable is moving the lever to let the warm air in.

 

[JohnsD90]

Also make sure the control cable is moving the lever to let the warm air in.

This, check this before spending any money.

 

[jymmiejamz]

It definitely sounds like you have an actual problem, and not a design flaw. The only time I feel the heat in my truck is inadequate is when we drive to Winter Romp and get to main at 1am when the temps are ~-10F and while doing 70-80 on the highway. While doing trails at those temps we never have the heat on high. A V8 should produce more than enough heat.

 

[SMac]

You need to see if bleeding the air out of the heater core will help if there is any trapped.
Also make sure the control cable is moving the lever to let the warm air in.

Ok, good to know. Thanks.

 

[Roverlab]

Where is the needle of the temp gauge indicating after an adequate drive?

 

[rocky]

It definitely sounds like you have an actual problem, and not a design flaw. The only time I feel the heat in my truck is inadequate is when we drive to Winter Romp and get to main at 1am when the temps are ~-10F and while doing 70-80 on the highway. While doing trails at those temps we never have the heat on high. A V8 should produce more than enough heat.

Ain't that the truth. WR in 2015 was the only time it was truly hard to stay warm on the interstate.

 

[SMac]

Where is the needle of the temp gauge indicating after an adequate drive?

1/8" left of center.

 

[rovercolorado]

You need to see if bleeding the air out of the heater core will help if there is any trapped.
Also make sure the control cable is moving the lever to let the warm air in.

I second the trapped air. A V8 should make plenty of heat and the gauge seems a little low. I remember halfway mark being a better location but without a "real" gauge maybe take a reading of the temp when warm to get a real number.
See if you can get a IR gun and take the temp at multiple parts of the cooling system.
Here is one that is not a bad price http://www.thermoworks.com/IR-Gun

 

[SMac]

Going to fit a genuine 190 degree thermostat, and flush/burp the system and report back. Thanks guys.

 

[SMac]

Welcome to Idaho weather!

Pretty sure you still have the stock V8. I would check your thermostat first. It's an easy job.

Like Chris said, your heat exchanger is probably full of 20 years with of "yuck."

I would install one of the molded floor/tunnel insulation kits. Works well in the summer and winter. Also seal up any air leaks. It's amazing how much difference a sealed cab will make.

I bought an Espar heater to install. My 110 with 200tdi doesn't heat the cab area at all. Was hoping to install this summer, but it didn't happen.

I don't remember this much snow since 1992-1993 I think? Ha! Spent too much time in deserts or southeast these last 13 years and I'm freezing my tail off!

 

[Jrose609]

I don't remember this much snow since 1992-1993 I think? Ha! Spent too much time in deserts or southeast these last 13 years and I'm freezing my tail off!

We've had snow, but not like this. It usually melts pretty quickly.
If the snow stays down this week, it will be down for a while. We are due for an arctic express. Temps should down below 0F this weekend .