Must Know: 300Tdi

[RBBailey]

I'm getting set to get my truck back on the road soon. I'm starting this thread to see what you all can tell me about owning a 300Tdi. When thinking about maintaining a running vehicle, I constantly find myself re-asking all the same old questions. I'm hoping that by having this thread here, I will have a place to jump directly to, in order to find the answers to these basic questions:

1. What type/brand of oil?
2. What type/brand of coolant?
3. What type/brand of oil filter?
4. What type/brand of fuel filter, and what micron size?
5. Where do you buy these things online?
6. What is a normal running oil pressure?
7. What is a normal running EGT?
8. What is a normal running water temp?
9. Do you have any tips, tricks, or alternate parts that you use?
10. What are some warning signs of impending doom?

 

[Overlander]

#1 lot's of guys use Rotella T

#2 green (never mix green and orange. Think Taylor Swift singing "never ever get back together"

for 3 and 4, you can get service packages that include the oil, air and fuel filter all together for not alot of money. getting genuine is not more expensive than aftermarket.

Just don't get Fram. Fram sux.

oil pressure should be around 50-60 psi cold, and mid 20's warm at idle.

EGT for a well tuned engine should be around 700-800F around town and 900's on highway.

water temp should be around 195F after the 190F thermostat opens up on a warm engine.

#9a step1. go to youtube and subscribe to Trailfitter's channel and binge watch every tdi video he has ever made. then come back to this forum and ask questions.

#9b. here's another tip. never, ever let it overheat.

#9c. if you don't have an EGT, get one. I"m assuming you have one though, since you asked about EGT, so this one is for posterity.

#10 is a thread to itself.

 

[Vtrover]

Like Overlander says, overheat is a killer, a coolant hose went on mine and it overheated quickly. The head gasket went soon thereafter, the head can't take it. I'd replace any suspicious looking hoses. Otherwise it's been super reliable.

 

[KGH]

10 What are some warning signs of impending doom?
[/LIST]

Land Rover ownership.

 

[globallandrovers]

Over the years i have run a few 300tdi's, I find it good practice to fit a new radiator when ever I buy a new 300tdi truck, along with the new rad, I also do new hoses, full service and timing belt. Regular service is the key.

As a foot note, I also supply 300tdi take out kit, and 300tdi re-manufactured crate (turn key) engines.

 

[Wilboro]

#1 shell rotella t 15w 40
#2 turbo power universal green (safe for alloy)
#3 was using imported coopers but just got a Mann w930/21 locally today which is oem dimensions

 

[chris snell]

Guys, let's clean this thread up. I believe that Ben posted this thread in the spirit of the type of high-quality, stickied threads that Mark (Overlander) mentioned in the Dsource thread. Let's make this a thread that's worthy of a sticky. I really, really hate forum mods who edit posts so I'm going to ask you to do it yourselves: please remove jokes and advertisements from your posts in this thread. It's fine to post that stuff in any other NAS-ROW thread but I want to keep this one clean. Dsource is filled with threads like this that start promising but go off the rails. Let's not be like them.

Thanks.

 

[Viton]

My suggestion is to be rid of the stock LR water temperature gauge and put in a VDO (with numbers) and install the proper 14ga wiring (all 3 wires) to have it read correctly. I feel that many of you have had the issues you've had with over heating could have been averted with an accurate temperature gauge.

From what I've seen of the LR gauge is it sits right in the mid range, regardless of driving on the flat or pulling a steep hill, (which also has a huge temperature range), and then suddenly climbs rapidly next to or into the red. By then it's too late, the damage has already been done.

 

[DefendersNW]

1. What type/brand of oil?
   Any diesel specific oil works just fine - change every 3k
   
   
2. What type/brand of coolant?
   any diesel/aluminium engine compatible - mix it yourself at 50/50 with distilled H2O
   
   
3. What type/brand of oil filter?
   Land Rover, Mahle, Filtron, Filtrex, etc... change every 9k miles
   
   
4. What type/brand of fuel filter, and what micron size?
   Mahle, Muller, Bosch, Land Rover, etc.. Change annually
   
   
5. Where do you buy these things online?
   Insert shameless plug here...
   
   
6. What is a normal running oil pressure?
   1.2 - 1.5 bar
   
   
7. What is a normal running EGT?
   Under 700
   
   
8. What is a normal running water temp?
   ~180-200
   
   
9. Do you have any tips, tricks, or alternate parts that you use?
   Yes - lots
   Drive it slow and easy the first couple months and then don't let it sit for more than a week or so at a time, use a lubricating fuel additive, keep it fed, and change the oil frequently.
   
   
10. What are some warning signs of impending doom?
    Loss of power, oil in cylinders, loss of cabin heat, gauges pegged, excessive loping, oil loss, turbo lubrication failure, and the biggest risk to a happy engine is timing problems (belt slip or degradation, heat from incorrect timing)

 

[RBBailey]

Good replies.

Oil viscosity? I see 15w40.

About the fuel filter:
I've learned that it is very important to have clean fuel. What do you all say about sourcing the finest screen possible? Does this restrict flow too much?

And what about your attitudes, passions, and results from using various combos of biofuels?

 

[chris snell]

About the fuel filter:
I've learned that it is very important to have clean fuel. What do you all say about sourcing the finest screen possible? Does this restrict flow too much?

I run the stock MoD-style fuel filler, which has a screen on it. From the tank, I run it through a sedimenter, one I bought from Robert Davis after my MoD-installed sedimenter started leaking in air. From there, a stock fuel filter and lift pump.

The screen on the filler nozzle stops the larger debris and keeps it from ever getting into the tank. The sedimenter stops the rest.

 

[Wilboro]

Oil viscosity? I see 15w40.

Here is the chart from the owners manual. But as I mentioned I use 15 w 40 (so far)

 

[RBBailey]

So when you guys say Rotella T, is this the T4 Heavy Duty Diesel stuff?

 

[chris snell]

Yep.

 

[RBBailey]

Cool. Thanks.

....had to got to Walmart though.....

 

[110user]

1. What type/brand of oil filter?
   Land Rover, Mahle, Filtron, Filtrex, etc... change every 9k miles
   
   

Brian- Is that a typo on the filter change interval?

FWIW- I run rotella 5w-40 synthetic on every car I own, from a air cooled 911 to the LR V8's and tdi's.
On the Tdi's I've been doing 5k mi oil changes with a filter change at 2500mi.

 

[DefendersNW]

Brian- Is that a typo on the filter change interval?

FWIW- I run rotella 5w-40 synthetic on every car I own, from a air cooled 911 to the LR V8's and tdi's.
On the Tdi's I've been doing 5k mi oil changes with a filter change at 2500mi.

Nope -

Oil change every 3k

Every third oil change:
New oil filter
new air filter
Valve check
coolant check
Sedimenter and fuel filter open until fuel runs without water/sediment
trans/transfer/diff fluid level check
brake/clutch fluid check
belt inspection
- repair or replace any identified issues as needed -

 

[chris snell]

I second the 3k oil changes. Fresh oil seems to make a huge difference in how these engines sound and run.

 

[110user]

I've only run one oil analysis (blackstone) on my 300tdi in the ambulance and everything looked great (5k on oil, 5w-40 Rotella) except the soot levels were a little high. Hence my thoughts on the mid interval filter change.

I changed turbos and the head since then, so I think its time for another set of analyses and I'll post up here.

 

[DefendersNW]

I've only run one oil analysis (blackstone) on my 300tdi in the ambulance and everything looked great (5k on oil, 5w-40 Rotella) except the soot levels were a little high. Hence my thoughts on the mid interval filter change.

I changed turbos and the head since then, so I think its time for another set of analyses and I'll post up here.

Soot is often an indication of overcooling, fuel quality (aerated oil via turbo bearings), short trip (not up to temp), glow plug failure, or a little of all of the above.

We've had customer oil analysis done on a handful of engines - some fresh builds, some 200K KM. Most indicate a oil life of 9K-10K is possible except the contaminant levels (sulphur, water, etc...) are more in the 5k-7k range. Filters become more effective screens with use as the pores are blocked, but also more restrictive to the flow rate. The 3K/9K routine is one that I can easily keep up with, is functional for a daily driver, and seems to keep the engines in a happy place for most of the operational timeline.

After the 9k service, the engine always feels refreshed.