Made in USA 12V diesel pumps

ghoregon

Active member
I have a Robert Davis sedimenter that I need to install when I install the fuel pump. #selfbleedingfuelsystemisthenewairlocker
Did that too. [emoji846] I do need to install smaller hose clamps since there's been a very slight leak at the sedimentor.
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broncoduecer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Turns out the Holley pump I got is 7 psi, so I?m glad you guys pointed out that about 4 psi is best. I just have mine installed as a backup, but I?ll swap it out so I don?t damage anything. Thanks everyone!
 

Ren Ching

Active member
one thing that has not been mentioned here. The Robert Davis method puts the 12v pump before the sedimenter, as close to the tank as possible. If there are any air leaks in the system, the 12v pump will help you find them rather quickly as fuel will come spewing out. Especially if the engine is not running as it presumably is not in a priming or not-start situation.



I haven't used a Mr. Gasket 12v diesel pump but they are an identical design to the old Facet vibrating pump. Not exactly sure what is inside but they vibrate a lot and need to be mounted on rubber feet or they will self destruct. Also, a prefilter is abosolutely needed to keep them crud-free.



Those types of pumps supply pretty low volume. On my carb'ed vehicles, I always needed an inline pressure regulator. Because of the reduced pressure, there was concern that at higher rpm the fuel supply was leaning out because the little pump couldn't keep up. Never confimed but I did replace it with a Carter rotary vane pump similar to the one in Robert's link. But mine specfically was built to provide high volume at low pressure so as not to overwhelm the float bowl needle.



I'm still on my the first mechanical pump that I put on when I installed my 300tdi engine back in 2009. No sedimenter. No electric pump. No problems. (knock on internet wood)
 

NPT90

Well-known member
I'm still on my the first mechanical pump that I put on when I installed my 300tdi engine back in 2009. No sedimenter. No electric pump. No problems. (knock on internet wood)

I installed a non delphi lift pump maybe 6 months ago which I am reasonable sure is already dead.

To be fair I wouldn't install anything but genuine delphi again, the britpart equivalent with its one piece design is questionable at best, not that I need serviceability for the lift pump but I suspect my diaphragm is no good or perforated.

I have changed my fuel filter several times since, even with a new tank I am concerned with particulates in my fuel line (hence my added sedimenter). I don't worry about water in the fuel because it is pretty much a non issue in North america as best I can tell (aside from getting bad diesel which is going to flood any sedimenter/water filter anyway).

Obviously particulates would be captured in the fuel filter before the IP but again the lift pump is the primary issue.

I have been discussing the Kennedy Lift pumps with Kennedy Diesel and from what I can tell they offer a pretty good solution with minimal noise and since they are centrifugal and essentially solid state they will not impede flow to the mechanical lift pump on the 300tdi should it fail (though Kennedy claims 40000 hours on these units). Only caveat is they are not self priming so I went with the Stanadyne FM100 (now WIX Filters 24911) and to fit in the stock 300TDI location (since the air filter housing and hose routes to the bulkhead filter location) I used A Pair of these to couple to the AN6 hose that is going in so as to reduce the space required.

Kennedy recommended running it at all times during operation and I can't see any reason not to leave the mechanical lift pump in place as most tests I have seen say a single Kennedy pump puts out 3-4PSI.

I will post it up once I get the unit next month
 

Red90

Well-known member
The 300TDI pumps have a screen in them, so can accept some amount of dirt without issue. If you get a lot of dirt, without a sediementer, the screen will plug up. Original pumps can come apart to clean the screen. Later ones cannot.

The 200TDI and earlier pumps do not have a screen. If you don't have a sedimenter and large dirt comes through, it gets stuck in the check valve. The valve then does not seat and the lift pump cannot work. These failures have nothing to do with the quality of the pump.I went through a couple of lift pumps due to this issue after removing the sedimenter. Now that it is back in, I have had trouble free operation.

It is important to look at the failed parts and see what failed. Sometimes the issue is outside of the part and replacing it is a futile exercise.
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
I went through a couple of lift pumps due to this issue after removing the sedimenter. Now that it is back in, I have had trouble free operation.

I cleaned my sedimenter when replacing the electric fuel pump for the lower PSI one the other day. When I saw the junk it trapped inside, I was glad to have it. Since installing this stuff I haven't had any fuel system issues.

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RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
You do t need to crack anything on a TDI. They are self bleeding. With the stock system just crank it for five seconds and it is bled.

I think this must depend on exactly how your hoses are running from exactly what point the filter is sitting from exactly how long each hose is... etc....

In my experience, I have managed to get fuel into the lines by cranking for a few seconds, but I would not go past that. Usually (in the three or four times I've done it) manually pumping, then waiting, then cranking, then manual pumping is what got the fuel to return into the lines, or to fill the new filter.

Maybe my fuel lines just happen to have a certain dip, rise, length in them that allows for some air lock the moment the old filter is removed. Yours doesn't, thereby allowing you to re-prime with the turn of the key.

After rebuilding the fuel system myself, though, I do see how the system will self purge once the fuel is flowing.

I'm leaning toward getting an electric pump, even if I do install a new mechanical, and just using the factory V8 in-tank pump wiring that is still in place. This will be properly connected to the ignition, and fused without any modifications. Redundancy without complication. Good.
 

Red90

Well-known member
If it is not self purging there is a leak or a pump not working or the plumbing is not as per stock. The lift pump and the injection pump supply pump are positive displacement. They both pump air as well as fuel. The lift pump moves a lot of fuel.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
My fuel pump was weak. I forgot about it. I just had to get a tow back home.

So, I already have a replacement electric pump that I could probably put in this evening (a rare day when I was actually going to use some free time to be outside for a while! But Rover had other plans....).

But my one question is, where should I get the power from? I don't want to go to the ignition because that would require me to open up the dash, and do 2-3 hours of work for what is probably a 1 hour job if I could have a good pick off point. The other option is to have a manual switch, but....
 

chris snell

Administrator
Callsign: NW5W
Staff member
I made a hop from an ignition-switched circuit on my factory fuse panel to an empty terminal on that same terminal using factory crimp terminals. I fused that and used that circuit to switch a relay, which switches a Blue Sea fuse block, which powers my pump and APRS unit.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I'm looking to mount it on the passenger side wheel arch, just behind the expansion tank. I could certainly relay it off the aux fuse box. But I'm looking at the bundle of wires that runs up that side of the bulkhead, and thinking about how many of those go live when the key is turned, and that many of them are not used. If I put a fuse in the line from one of those--as long as I can ID the source to know which fuse on the original panel is driving it.
 

ghoregon

Active member
For mine, I piggybacked off the reverse light switch. That goes to a relay in the battery box and then to the fuel pump on the RHS of the vehicle just ahead of the sedimentor. This way it only powers the pump with the ignition switched on.

The pump is fused through a fused Blue Sea panel. Can you be over fused???
 

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RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Your trucks are all so clean it makes me question my humanity. I’m still cleaning my truck after getting 6 inches of water in the cab in December.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Here's what I ended up with. I really had just forgotten that I bought this Airtex pump a while back, and also forgot that I had previously figured out how I was going to do the wiring till it just dawned on me while I was at work today. This is a V8 harness, which means, it has a factory harness end for an in-tank fuel pump. And when I pulled that pump to rebuild the tank system, I made sure to clip the harness from off the old fuel pump and I saved it in my box of stuff for this project. So instead of having to worry about wiring up a new circuit, I figure this one will probably work. (I hope....) At least, the pig-tail is long enough that it easily reaches over the top of the tank, and to where I have the pick up line running down the passenger side of the frame.

So all I needed to do was hard wire the clipped pig-tail from the old V8 pump to the new pump, then find a spot on the frame where the pump could go. Yesterday, I spent an hour poking and prodding up front for a good power feed, then I figured out a place to install the pump, and was ready to do the job.... but today I spent an hour just doing the job with the existing wiring already in place. Take a good look, since by the time it rains on Friday, this will all be just as dirty as the rest of the underside of the truck.

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Primed the line with a turn of the key, checked for leaks, and then test drove for kicks. I'm pretty sure the IP is also a bit quieter now. It's one reason I had originally wanted to put the electric in. Although it never sounded bad, I had always wondered if the IP wasn't just a bit louder than it should be because it was essentially doing the pick-up work. Time will tell, but it might have (fingers crossed) helped with the pinging knock I have always had. Since I don't always hear it, and since it is sometimes quieter than other times, I can't be sure till I put another few hundred miles on it. However, the last time I allowed myself to think about it, I was starting to go down the line of thinking that noise might be fuel flow related.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
So.... It seems as if pressure was lost sitting overnight. But there are no leaks that I can detect. I turned the key, heard the pump, but the truck took a few turns to start. Seemed normal, but then died at the bottom of my hill about 1/2 a mile from the house. Started up again, but I could not hear the pump. I now know that is because I can only just hear the pump when it is primed, I had heard it in the garage in the morning because it was not primed. One way or another, I put new fuel in the tank, drove to work, let it sit for a few hours, then rechecked for leaks. Nothing that I can see.

So other than the hose connection points, is there any other place that might be leaking?
 
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