LR3 diff issues

rover4x4

Well-known member
I've read and heard a bit about failures in these trucks. Do they fail magically or are they especially sensitive to fluid changes. What's the recommended interval. How hard is it to replace the differential? Seems easy,maybe even less bolts than a third memeber
 

1of40

Well-known member
From what I have gathered (others can agree/disagree) is that some diffs were painted or sealed inside. The internal coating caused some failures. Not all diff have this issue but if the diff is flushed and replaced with proper fluids they tend to operate well.


I plan to cut the service intervals in half and stick to the recommended services.
 

Al Blue4.6l

Well-known member
From what I have gathered (others can agree/disagree) is that some diffs were painted or sealed inside. The internal coating caused some failures. Not all diff have this issue but if the diff is flushed and replaced with proper fluids they tend to operate well.


I plan to cut the service intervals in half and stick to the recommended services.

yeah that is absolutely the main "rumor", though I don't know if that has ever been confirmed. They've also been through a bunch of iterations of the front breather cap due to water intrusion, so it might not be a bad idea to pick up the latest version from LR as well.
 

Ray_G

Well-known member
Related to the rumor, my understanding is that the coated/painted interior that Clay is referring to also had the 14mm hex drain plug whereas newer ones with the 3/8 square drain plugs are fine.

That said, I almost certainly have the old difs (def have the 14mm plug), changed the fluid about 5k ago (have 108k on the truck) and knock on wood...

Bottom is I'm unclear if the dif failure is chronic or just one of the more notable things that could happen. What I've never gotten a read on-and would be keen on observations from our long term LR tech's that are members-is how does this rank compared to say Dii head gaskets in terms of frequency of being encountered at the dealer?
r-
Ray
 

stu454

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4CBB
What's the scoop on fixing the breather issue? Is there an updated one?
 

stu454

Well-known member
Callsign: KN4CBB
So the change is made at the end of the breather line, not at the diff? Cool. I'll take a look at lunch and see if mine needs to be updated.
 
Changed the f/r diff (SE - no locker) fluids at 39k three years ago. What drained from the front looked fine. The rear... not so much.
Changed fluids in the f/r diffs and t/c last weekend at 91k. All three looked great. Great like you could still see the amber color. Zero shavings on the drain plugs observed from either fill. Makes me wonder if the rear diff issues are the result of the some lining shedding as others have alluded to. This did not present during the second drain/fill 52k miles later.
Drain plug is the 3/8" drive for the rear. Hex for the t/c, f/r fill plug, and I believe the f drain plug. No leaks - the undercarriage is dry.
Redline for the diffs and LR's t/c fluid (thanks to Jimmy for dropping off a few qts 3 yrs ago).
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
So the change is made at the end of the breather line, not at the diff? Cool. I'll take a look at lunch and see if mine needs to be updated.

You can just cut the top off of the breather. I was doing that long before they came out with the updated breather valve and never had any issues. It is on the driver's side and clipped onto one of the a/c lines to the condenser.
 
Top