Low Fuel warning light

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
On my 1991 (200TDI, 110), although I have a low fuel warning light, it has never worked. Since I replaced the rear chassis harness, I noticed that the connector plug is a 5-pin connector (connects the rear harness to the short harness to the tank). This 5 pin connector has 3 pins, 2 blanks. The 3 pins correspond to a signal wire for the level, a low fuel warning wire and a reference ground--this connects to the side mounted fuel return/sender. Although each side of the harness has 3 wires, the contactors only align for the reference ground and fuel level, but the white/slate wire doesn't align. So I fixed that and modified a new pin and crimped it on and melted it into the new connector.

Now the issue. I know where the white/slate wire ends up in the engine bay from the rear harness. I also see a white/slate wire going into the main harness bundle at the binnacle tracing it from the warning light cluster. But for the life of me, I can't find where this terminates so I can hook up this circuit. Any help located that? I do see a white/purple wire at an engine bay harness plug but my cursory continuity check doesn't show that to be the right one at the warn light...

Here they show it not hooked up to anything....

1649703568744.png


Connect those dots and I will have a low fuel warning light :)

I think if I can figure that part out, I may do an small circuitry unit for "anti-slosh" warning signal so it doesn't blink in corners. And, frankly, it may have that mysterious circuit that is embedded into the harness that some folks can find that basically does that---and if that is the case, the white/purple wire may be correct in the engine bay and the module is burnt out creating the short from my resistance test to the cluster...

Otherwise I do have one of the low fuel circuit adjustable things that I can always hook up.... (bought this last year: https://www.ebay.com/itm/251309976772 )
 
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Robert

Well-known member
if it has the anti slosh circuit board it wouldnt need the switch signal for low fuel. it would use the regular sending unit signal, compare it, and feed a little bump in voltage out for the hysteresis control.

I believe thats how the defender boards work. I know for a fact thats how the disco board works
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I think there may be four different circuit scenarios: number one is definitely a guess:
1) an anti-slosh for warning/low fuel circuit on white/slate
2) interpreive low fuel+anti-slosh circuit residing on green/black signal circuit.
3) white/slate direct to gauge and gauge annoyingly jumps
4) my favorite, just isn’t hooked up to shit.

the low fuel circuit is simple. An anti slosh circuit isn’t hard. right now im leaning toward the gizmo I bought…
 

Robert

Well-known member

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
post-13593-125440401245.gif

from

op am comparator board here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/low-fuel-light-nightmare.311855/

View attachment 23624
Thanks! And that is the module I got figuring that to be the case. However, in my truck, the old harness had both a white/slate and a green/black wire coming out of the old unit in lieu of everything coming off the white/slate. So that is why I am perplexed. I did notice that the old harness had the white/slate transition in the rear harness to a white/purple and that is what I currently hooked up at the bulkhead, but I can't find where the white/purple wire ends up. Tracing it in the massive bundle, not already behind the dash, has been a real trick. Plus I couldn't find that circuit board anywhere in the bundle. My "guess" is that I have one of the early ones that went straight to the gauge and bounced around, but lack of voltage continuity has lead to no clues. My harness coming off the binnacle is white/slate but no clue where it ends up... All guesses. I'll probably just wire in the Spydia and be done with it....
 

Robert

Well-known member
maybe a PO removed it? one of the pics that showed up on google looked like it corroded badly, and that would compromise everything on that switch circuit



this is for a disco, but I think the ohm range is the same
r14 and r15 are the divider for the comparator. r16 is the pulldown for hysteresis control. that system does run at 5v though and not chassis voltage like the defender
 

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