Lights on front affect cooling?

Classic4X4

Well-known member
I have two Hella Rallye lights on the front brush guard of my 90. Have an Ali sport aluminum radiator and intercooler as well. I run a 200TDI with a 300TDI turbo. I'm wondering just how much having these two massive lights in front of the radiator affects the cooling ability. I drove the buggy 300 miles on Sunday and the engine stayed at the perfect temperature the entire time, my VDO exhaust temp gauge for the turbo was anywhere between 450 and would ride right below 650 on some longer hills at high speeds. I guess I have two questions here:

How much do lights affect cooling? Should I take them off for long highway trips?

And what is a healthy temperature for the exhaust? Averaged around 500 degrees most of the ride

Thanks everyone. Love this forum. Lots of helpful people here and a lot less "bashing":eek:
 

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DefendersNW

Well-known member
The cooling issue with blockage is more noticeable at low speed high throttle input - (IE off road) but it sounds like you are all good as long as the tuning on the IP isn't overfueling the engine as compared to the cooling capacity of your setup.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
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And what is a healthy temperature for the exhaust? Averaged around 500 degrees most of the ride

400-450 is what you should be seeing @ idle. Underway somewhere between 600-800 with stock fuel settings.

Where is your pyrometer sending unit positioned ?
 

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Worried my engine might run a little too cold then. At this time of year in the northeast (and on that 300m drive) the engine never gets above ~120 and at idle turbo exhaust is ~300. I have a RN radiator muff but left it at home in CT :-/

Not sure where the sensor is, the PO installed the TDI. Any general idea where I might find it? Can take some pictures of the engine bay.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Exhaust temps have little to do with engine temp or ambient, ie I can make my trucks EGT's hit 1300 degrees when its single digits out.

Where a thermocouple is positioned has a great deal to do with what the gauge will read.
Ie if angled wrong or positioned post turbo will read hundreds of degrees cooler than what's realy going on.
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
Underway somewhere between 600-800 with stock fuel settings.

With my probe in my manifold collector trying to maintain 70ish on the highway I am like 850-1050 now. Stock fueling, 16psi boost. Just throwing another data point out...but like you said it is all about where the probe is positioned. Before I put the 33's/ARB bumper on I was able to cruise at 70-75 at 850. No smoke.

I always freak myself out with EGT numbers.
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
At this time of year in the northeast (and on that 300m drive) the engine never gets above ~120

That sounds too cold to me. The truck on the highway should get up to T-stat temp which is about 190 and than just sit there regardless of your radiator because if the truck is only getting to 120, coolant shouldn't even be circulating through the rad because the T-stat is closed. You might wanna swap your T-stat quick. Around town in this weather the truck won't get to operating temp.

Not sure where the sensor is, the PO installed the TDI. Any general idea where I might find it? Can take some pictures of the engine bay.

It is likely somewhere in your exhaust manifold. Shouldn't be hard to find as there will likely be a wire running through the bulkhead for it. However with the temps you are reporting at highway speed I wouldn't be shocked if it's in your downpipe.

I wouldn't sweat the light thing at all.
 

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Forgive my ignorance but not familiar with what the T stat is. Looks like the sensor is on the manifold?

Worried about engine wear if it's running cold?
 

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Viton

Well-known member
I built a 198*F and a 203*F because off road, the engine wouldn't even get to 180*F?, even in the summer in Moab. Diesels run COLD off road due to low RPM's and burning low rates of fuel at low RPM's.
Higher fueling = higher heat output, low RPM's = low fuel usage & low coolant temps.


On the highway from Oct through May I run the 203* and that gives me a running temp of a little over 195*. In the summer I run the 198* and that gives me a ~192*

Unless you live in say, Phoenix, even the stock 192* makes the engine run cold. My EGT typically runs about 800* at an elevation of 4500'+ at 65 mph.

Javelina Dave here runs a 180* Tstat made by Motorad but he runs his AC in the summer (May through October) in Phoenix.

Do you know the Ford F250 & 350 diesels run Tstats of 215*F ??
Diesels run better when running hotter.
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
Forgive my ignorance but not familiar with what the T stat is. Looks like the sensor is on the manifold?

Worried about engine wear if it's running cold?

Sorry, thermostat. Right in front of valve cover under 3 bolt cap. Super easy to swap if you just pinch the upper coolant hose with some locking pliars.
 

AdamSanta85

Well-known member
I'm dumb... Thermostat lol. You think replacing it would help?

That would be the simplest explanation as to why the truck isn't getting up to temp (leaking/stuck open) and they only cost $5-$10. I prefer the aftermarket Britpart or Bearmach to the OEM in this instance.
 

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Found this on eBay for $10 made by brittpart/allmakes4x4 says 88 degrees. What do you think? Thanks for all the help!
 

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AdamSanta85

Well-known member
Found this on eBay for $10 made by brittpart/allmakes4x4 says 88 degrees. What do you think? Thanks for all the help!

Sure. There is also a Ford Stant Superstat that will work that local parts stores stock that Red90 is a fan of. I found it caused my truck to run a couple degrees warmer than the OE style but at least you don't have to wait to find out.

Stant 45779
 

Classic4X4

Well-known member
Just ordered the one on eBay from lucky 8. Pretty close so I should have it in a couple days or so. Should I avoid driving the truck until it's in?
 

Viton

Well-known member
Sure. There is also a Ford Stant Superstat that will work that local parts stores stock that Red90 is a fan of. I found it caused my truck to run a couple degrees warmer than the OE style but at least you don't have to wait to find out.

Stant 45779

Something very important to consider when using other Tstats is the distance from the top plate (large diameter metal plate w/valve) of the unit to the distance & travel of the bottom plate. The bottom plate (small diameter) is a gate to open/close a coolant passage. If that distance is not the same as as the OE Tstat, that passage opening/closing will not function properly.
The Ford "superstat" appears to be a little short in length to do the same job as the OE Tstat, but I don't have one in hand to measure.
 
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