LED Headlight recommendation.

[SaintPanzer]

This is a topic of concern for me, mostly because I have a RHD Defender and I'm in a RHD country... so I had to change the lenses.

I have heard good things about the Wipacs, but they are expensive, so I haven't put them on yet.

I did put on E coded lenses with 55W/65W H4 bulbs, and that made quite the difference. I am considering upgrading those to higher wattage, but understand well the need for relays and haven't decided on the wiring package yet. I'm considering adding in the City Light bulbs, but haven't gotten that far yet (it's not critical), and will eventually go LED for side lights, tail lights, etc.

When I do wire, I tend to use marine grade (Ancor) wire with Ancor crimped connectors. Crimps are made with the appropriate Ancor tool. Additional fusing when needed is via a BlueSea box. I tend to follow ABYC 12 volt standards where I can.

That said, my question is this: For those who use the higher wattage bulbs, is your alternator up to the task? I've added the heated windscreen, and heated seats are on the list, and all this seems to mean a higher load to me. My attraction to LEDs is the lower draw required, but if a 100 amp alternator is up to it, I will not worry.

 

[Mdubs]

I ordered the Truck-Lite 27270C headlamps and will post pictures when I finish the install. I didn't get the 27275C's because I live in Socialist Southern California, so heated lights to deal with snow/ice aren't needed.

I also ordered the Truck-Lite 27270C lamps. They’re going into an ex-MOD. Do Ineed any special relays? I already have the RDX Flasher relay installed for the running lights/indicators.

 

[rocky]

Having run led for stop and turn signals, I look forward to LED lights with heaters built in to melt snow and ice.

 

[UnfrozenCaveman]

If you end up with "old" halogen lamps, even in a 55/60 watt arrangement, I like running a relay set up just to keep the high current out of the steering column switches.

I've got a mixture of Hella and some IPF housings in various vehicles ... none of which come close to the pattern quality in the ancient Marchal lamps I had in the 70's

 

[Caligula]

For what it may be worth....

I have been using the heated version of the truck lites for about 7 yrs in inclement weather on a classic. no relays needed, direct replacement no wiring adaptors either. I don't know if there would be any advantages to installing a relay since these lights advertise to have built in circuitry.
when I purchased them, they were advertised to be installed on the new jeep wrangler rubicon and apparently due to the new electronics on said model they flicker. an anti flicker module was offered for an extra charge. back then I paid around $680.00 per light
I took the chance said module would not be needed and my chance paid off.
because of the natural set up of a cone reflector and the led's facing the reflector lens, you do see a distinct Y pattern shadow which can be distracting at first.
my first night time drive experience with new led headlamps, granted US model 2003 to 2010 L322 Range Rover uses halogen and projector lighting but we know they are bright lights. I came to a stop at a dark traffic intersection next to a (then newish) L322 and my new led low beams, were brighter and wider pattern than the L322 upon visual comparison.
I live in the country and drive in pitch dark tree shaded roads, my Classic used to have a pair of hella rallye 1000 mounted on the then usable front brush guard. with the old sealed beam those hellas were a great help in pitch dark country driving, with the LED's high beam suffices, thus when
brush guard became un-useable ornament, the hellas went down with it and never reinstalled.
the classic is very much stock with stock air-dam mounted fog lights and to assist, I installed led bulbs in halogen housings. I don't use them either.

It is my personal experience using truck lite heated Led headlamps only and not comparing to other brands, needless to say I continue to be very pleased with the positive performance. Main reason for having chosen the type and brand over many others of similar performance, the heated element.
it activates at or below 50 degrees F and does not tax the vehicle's electrics, there is no build up of ice or snow and the lens feels warm to the touch but only if ambient temp is lower than 50 deg F.

 

[Napalm00]

This is a topic of concern for me, mostly because I have a RHD Defender and I'm in a RHD country... so I had to change the lenses.

I have heard good things about the Wipacs, but they are expensive, so I haven't put them on yet.

I did put on E coded lenses with 55W/65W H4 bulbs, and that made quite the difference. I am considering upgrading those to higher wattage, but understand well the need for relays and haven't decided on the wiring package yet. I'm considering adding in the City Light bulbs, but haven't gotten that far yet (it's not critical), and will eventually go LED for side lights, tail lights, etc.

When I do wire, I tend to use marine grade (Ancor) wire with Ancor crimped connectors. Crimps are made with the appropriate Ancor tool. Additional fusing when needed is via a BlueSea box. I tend to follow ABYC 12 volt standards where I can.

That said, my question is this: For those who use the higher wattage bulbs, is your alternator up to the task? I've added the heated windscreen, and heated seats are on the list, and all this seems to mean a higher load to me. My attraction to LEDs is the lower draw required, but if a 100 amp alternator is up to it, I will not worry.

You're 100 amp alternator could probably run 10 sets plus the truck. You're going to be fine

 

[Drago.the.D110]

Trucklites here as well. Really happy with them.

 

[skymast]

I bought the Trucklites. Very happy with them. While a little modern looking, the split design works for me.

 

[pmatusov]

For those who use the higher wattage bulbs, is your alternator up to the task?

Absolutely. Two 80-watt bulbs draw about 13-14 Amp - alternator is 100A (rated, at least), easily capable of 50A at idle.

 

[JimC]

I like my Iraq Surge-era multi element Trucklites because it’s harder for insurgents to shoot them out.

 

[WreckITFrank]

I like my Iraq Surge-era multi element Trucklites because it’s harder for insurgents to shoot them out.

View attachment 15822

Ha. Those were replaced with with JW speakers later on down, although I see some HEMTT's rocking a newer gen.

 

[Adog]

I went with the J w speaker 8700 j2 bought them at a off road show at a solid discount ...

crazy bright and easy to adjust.

Upgrading the grill to kbx after I get new engine in

 

[pmatusov]

I like my Iraq Surge-era multi element Trucklites because it’s harder for insurgents to shoot them out.

LOL
I remember just how horrible these lights were - but that's a good reason beyond illumination.

 

[JimC]

Oh yeah, I’m running them for the nostalgia not the performance. The truck is a veteran also, so I just think of them as a Rover campaign streamer.

I wouldn’t mind a wolf-style bonnet basket for added style points.

 

[pmatusov]

For you guys who are not convinced LED bulbs are the way to go:

BulbFacts | Halogen Bulb Chart - Comparing Halogen Bulbs in Reflector Headlights

Bulb Facts, Lab testing on automotive headlight & foglight bulbs, comparison chart before you buy.

www.bulbfacts.com

There's a neat PDF from Hella listing the differences between the bulb types:
http://www.myhellalights.com/links/HELLA-BulbCatalog-2013.pdf

 

[Noyac40]

This is an infomative thread. I've wanted to make the switch on my 85 110 but wondering which are plug and play without relays and adaptors, if any?