LED Bulbs

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
I think he meant "load resistor"; i.e., resisters to simulate the load of incandescent bulbs, so the flasher and the trailer indicator function correctly

I'm getting bulbs for only the park lights and brake lights. Signal bulbs are pretty bright, and include the side marker, and I don't feel like spending the time and cash on them right now. Unless I'm mistaken, the park light and brake light bulbs should not need a resistor.


What bulb numbers are these things anyway? I know they are a pretty standard type, but I have a bad habit of buying just barely the wrong fit if I don't actually get the PN.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK, so I decided to give a set of the brake lights a try. Since one of you mentioned that Philips sets their bulbs to be only as bright as the standard, I went with the Pilots. They don't have ratings that are as good, but those are from Amazon, and many of them seem to be putting them in vehicles that need resistors, or they get them with shipping damage. Either way, they do work in the ROW Defender. Without, then with:


<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bhcmbailey/46636768331/in/photostream/" title="LED vs. Standard Bulbs"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4837/46636768331_824258c2e4_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="LED vs. Standard Bulbs"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>


<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bhcmbailey/46584469002/in/photostream/" title="LED vs. Standard Bulbs"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4809/46584469002_620d0b52c3_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="LED vs. Standard Bulbs"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>


Next two shots show the left vs. right as lined up as I can make them with a quick shot straight back. First, the parking light, then with the brake light illuminated:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bhcmbailey/46584469292/in/photostream/" title="LED vs. Standard Bulbs"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7819/46584469292_33d2cce768_z.jpg" width="640" height="363" alt="LED vs. Standard Bulbs"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>


<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/bhcmbailey/46636768731/in/photostream/" title="LED vs. Standard Bulbs"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4887/46636768731_66ed7e7f66_z.jpg" width="640" height="304" alt="LED vs. Standard Bulbs"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>


All images were taken with manual settings so that the relative brightness can be compared. The LED side appears to be a bit more orange. When it is in park lighting, there isn't much difference at all in brightness. I like the pattern that the LED bulb has when looking at it from the rear.



When the brake light is on, however, the standard bulb is still brighter, and seems to illuminate in a "flood" better than the LED. This is disappointing, but since I plan on putting a center brake light in anyway, I think the trade off in amp draw is going to be worth it. By the time I'm done swapping all bulbs, leaving the park lights on at a dark camp sight will mean nothing to the battery.


I think I will try the Sylvania bulbs for the front park lights. I don't plan on changing the flashers only because I don't feel like splicing in the resistors right now. I have better things to do with my time, and the amp draw doesn't matter.
 

BarryO

Well-known member
They show on the NAS Part Catalog as well.
Yea I noticed that. Weird that mine doesn't have them. And that RN sells those boot things.

Like a lot of people, I'm switching to waterproof LED lamps, so it won't be an issue anymore. 'seems like most of the Defenders (and even Series) I see have gone this route.
 

Red90

Well-known member
You still want the mud flaps though. It protects the wiring, connectors and the rear panel from damage. Just buy some large truck mud flaps and cut them to fit. It is a small job.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Never had them on my NAS and I'm the only owner. Are these a thing on ROW rigs?
My NAS 90 & NAS 110 had them.
Never seen a defender without them. Generally find them highly annoying but they serve the purpose of blocking pretty much all wheel spray from the lights.
FWIW seemed like it rained 9 mos of the year here this past year- record setting.
 

BarryO

Well-known member
You still want the mud flaps though. It protects the wiring, connectors and the rear panel from damage. Just buy some large truck mud flaps and cut them to fit. It is a small job.
I'll add it to the list of things to do when I get the truck back. :)
 

craigd

Active member
This is the first i have heard about the mud flap things. After having the dealer put on two sets of waterproof boots i fabricated an aluminium shield to protect the wiring from spray off the wheels. 16 years later still working good.
 

Defender425

New member
I just changed all my lights to led on my 85 110. Used Antline LED 1156/1157 red & amber as applicable. Also tried the antline super bright 1156in white for the front running light. It is super bright, bordering too bright!!! Also switched the flasher to Wipac WFL7LED flasher relay. Everything works great!! All ordered via Amazon.
One issue I did have with the rear brake/tail lights is the brake lights where not much brighter than the taillights. This is due to the tail light function was lighting the brighter of the two elements and brakes where the dimmer one which is in correct. Either the wires where colored wrong or hooked up wrong and had to swap them and then had nice bright brake lights with taillights on.
LED lights always get white orange red to match lens. You get weird colors if you don't.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Wipac WFL7LED flasher relay

I was wondering about the relay. You always see the resistors to buy, but why not just get a different relay? Where is the flasher relay located on these anyway?

And my brake lights are a bit orange (using the white lights) but you wouldn't notice unless you looked at it in comparison to a standard bulb right next to it.


Good info.
 

Red90

Well-known member
No trucks should need both. Trucks with full leds also need the instrument light to be fixed. Load resistors are a band aid.
 

rocky

Well-known member
On my build, everything was set up with NAS sized led lights, except for the headlights and the rear work light. I prefer the heat from Halogen for melting snow, and the work light had sat around unused for years.
 

NPT90

Well-known member
I went with the ROW wipac LEDs in OEM colors (not smoked or clear) It really retains the OEM appearance while putting out serious light output and having waterproof housings. I have seen cheap LEDs get water in the housings but my 'more expensive' kit has been great (knock on wood)
 

O2batsea

Well-known member
Conversion LED incandescent replacements everywhere except turn signals. Hard to justify the trouble and expense of swapping those as they're intermittent. Requires resistors and stuff. Oh and not in the alternator warning lamp either!
 
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