Is my heater working?

V

VantageAuto

New member
Hi All!

First post on this forum, thanks for having me.

I just purchased my first 110, an 87 110 done by Arkonic. 200tdi. Love it to death just wanted to know if anyone can advise me if I am using the heat properly. Does it only come out of two small holes one below the steering column and other below dash in front of the passenger seat? I live in NJ and cant get the cabin to heat up.

I moved both levers to the left of the steering wheel all of the way down, and the lever to the right which shows fan speed and says 2 at the bottom all of the way down. Heat blows out of those two small holes I mentioned above. The air fan and A/C fan both provide plenty of power...just not warm obviously.

Any help is much appreciated! Stay safe

Cheers
Andrew
 
javelinadave

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
Without modifying anything that is how a Defender heater works. People have enlarged the fan hole in the bulkhead and have made the two vent holes bigger but as is it is anemic at best.
You may be able to swap in a warmer thermostat and get a bit more heat or you can add a diesel powered auxiliary heater like many here on the board have done.
 
Napalm00

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Welcome to land rovers ! yes the heat sucks so bad you cant even tell if its working inmost cases. I bought my fiancé a gerbings heated motorcycle jacket liner (12v) and that keeps her toasty warm. My truck is 100% open to the air so we dont even bother with the stock heater.
 
4RF RDS

4RF RDS

Well-known member
Get a front radiator muff and it’ll heat up pretty quick. Also adding seat heaters and such is a simple solution to assist Staying warm.
good luck.
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RBBailey

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Heat in a 110 diesel is rough. If I still had my 110, I'd have gotten some kind of supplemental system for this winter. I was looking into a diesel heater, but my commute is so short, it's hardly worth it for regular 40 degree mornings. If you have the time, these heaters run off diesel, they start up in a minute or two, run very well, but then they also need a minute or two to run and close down. Using a radiator muff is a good idea to get the engine heated up quicker, but don't cover the intercooler! Also, you could help it along the way by getting some kind of block heater to get the temps up quicker.

I have to point out, especially if this truck is new to you, in the last year I've seen three Arkonic diesels that have essentially failed, sitting in the local shop. Each one for odd reasons. Each one looked perfect on the outside. One came with a rag and broken glass in the oil pan. Another had no gasket on the rocker cover, the rocker arms were wrenched down tight to zero clearance, and it had essentially started to eat itself. I can't remember what happened to the third one. Just.... make sure you get it checked by someone you can trust.
 
D

DBrands

Member
VantageAuto said:
Hi All!

First post on this forum, thanks for having me.

I just purchased my first 110, an 87 110 done by Arkonic. 200tdi. Love it to death just wanted to know if anyone can advise me if I am using the heat properly. Does it only come out of two small holes one below the steering column and other below dash in front of the passenger seat? I live in NJ and cant get the cabin to heat up.

I moved both levers to the left of the steering wheel all of the way down, and the lever to the right which shows fan speed and says 2 at the bottom all of the way down. Heat blows out of those two small holes I mentioned above. The air fan and A/C fan both provide plenty of power...just not warm obviously.

Any help is much appreciated! Stay safe

Cheers
Andrew
Click to expand...
If you move the outermost lever to the up position, the heat should come out the top of dash (defrost).
As many have commented, the Defender heater isn't all that powerful.
If the air is okay as you say, but not warm, you have a lack of engine heat or coolant flow to the heater matrix.
 
1of40

1of40

Well-known member
Heat in my early 110 w/Tdi swap is strong and I typically need to slide open my side window to cool down. I’m in Virginia. Check that the cables to the box are dialed in so that the internal flaps are positioned properly.
 
jymmiejamz

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
If it was built by Arkonik, I would assume any of the work they did was questionable at best. They are all about cosmetic work, and you cant see the heater matrix. It is probably the original matrix that is clogged and corroded. I would also assume the heater cables are incorrectly adjusted or the flaps in the heater box are broken.
 
ron

ron

Well-known member
Might also try a drop curtain to limit the space you need to heat.

in my 1995 NAS 90 i added a heater under the passenger seat.

A radiator muff is a good idea.
 
RDavisinVA

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
Heat in our Chevy 250 powered 110 is excellent.
We have to pull the "red" lever back up because it will cook your shins.
With wearing mostly shorts year round, good heat is paramount.
We get heat almost immediately even when the engine temp is on the lower end like at 120F.
 
Last edited:
B

bboretsky

Well-known member
RDavisinVA said:
Heat in our Chevy 250 powered 110 is excellent.
We have to pull the "red" lever back up because it will cook your shins.
With wearing mostly shorts year round, good heat is paramount.
We get heat almost immediately even when the engine temp is on the lower end like at 120F.
Click to expand...
that because you have a working Thermostat in the Chevy I6, My 2.5 NAS froze me out of the cab. At -6 going over a Idaho pass, it was only blowing cold air and the engine temps were not even registering. A piece of cardboard in front of the radiator and I got the engine temps close to normal. First thing I did when I got home was to take the airbox apart, rebuild the flap seals and clean out the heater core. I get warm air now, but still have to seal up the area by the core hose outlets.
 
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