Help New Ashcroft R380 shifting problem questions

[El Pinchi]

Greetings NAS-ROW friends,
I just picked up my NAS110 yesterday with a new 4.6L engine and a new Ashcroft R380 installed and the tranny is giving me problems. It’s very difficult to shift it into gears especially 1st and 2nd gear. Sometimes reverse. 2nd is by far the worst and I don’t want to force and break anything. Sometimes it will shift into those gears but most of the time I have to try several times and muscle it a bit!
Is this normal on a new R380 or is there some adjustments that can be made? I wasn’t able to find any inf on Ashcroft’s website. I’m using Redline MTL. Any thoughts or advice in appreciated.
Thanks!
Eddie

 

[javelinadave]

Sounds like the bias springs may need adjustment. From the Ashcroft website:
Bias Adjustment

It is important to check the bias adjustment particularly on the defender boxes if a "notchy" selection on 3rd or 4th is a problem.

The bias plate and springs are pre set on the (short stick) Disco and Range Rover boxes, so should need little or no attention, but if there is a problem selecting 3 or 4 it is possible to move the spring location plate which is held down by the 4 x M8 bolts under the top dust cover.

The"long stick" boxes, Defender and early Range Rover, come without the "turret" assembly. Always check the turret is in good condition ie locates in the socket and feel firm. The 3 and 4 selection is by two "bias" adjustment springs located one each side of the turret under the rubber boot. Pull the boot back and if necessary adjust the two M6 screws under the springs, the lever should self center in the 3 - 4 position.

Other causes of poor selection are "dragging clutch" and "tight spigot", both of these problems will show on the R 380 by tight gear selection in all gears.

 

[RDavisinVA]

It could be a number of things.
Check the clutch adjustment and also read this thread:
https://nas-row.com/index.php?threads/1st-gear-where-r-is-r380.3513/#post-33055

 

[rocky]

Aren't gearboxes shipped with no oil? Lets add a check of the oil level and type....

 

[RDavisinVA]

Great points.
Had an LT77 that someone put 90 WT gear oil in that we just did salvage before it was ruined.
Drained and replaced it with Amsoil synthetic MTF-94 substitute and it miraculously started shifting.
Lucky that it only went a few miles at the most with 90 WT.

 

[Parrie]

If this is new I presume there is some sort of warranty? Ashcroft's customer service is pretty good, give them a call.
In the mean time, as mentioned above, check the bias spring, when correctly set the shifter should rest directly in the center of 3rd & 4th. If after adjustment there is no change than it's probably worth pulling the shift tower and inspect the gear lever to make sure everything is in order. This can easily be done from inside the truck.

 

[Red90]

The bias setting has nothing to do with the issue described.

Make sure the clutch is not dragging, but it does not sound like it is that.

Drop the MTL and put in Redline ATF. If the shifts are hard because of the the synchros, a lighter fluid helps.

I'm starting to think the synchro quality is not where it used to be.

 

[El Pinchi]

The bias setting has nothing to do with the issue described.

Make sure the clutch is not dragging, but it does not sound like it is that.

Drop the MTL and put in Redline ATF. If the shifts are hard because of the the synchros, a lighter fluid helps.

I'm starting to think the synchro quality is not where it used to be.

Hi John, the shifts are not hard it just doesn't want to go into gear easily and its random on 1st but consist trying to get into 2nd. If I change the fluid is it Redline ATF D4? What about Amsoil MTF...I have a bunch of this bc that's what I used in my LT77. Thanks!

 

[Red90]

Well, you really should not be able to ever do first unless stopped or nearly stopped. If getting into 2nd is not easy, it is either a draging clutch, or a shift rail setup error or the fluid is too thick. trying a thinner fluid is easy...

Amsoil MTF won't help. It is pretty close to Redline MTL. The Redline ATF is a big jump and you will know. You could also do another synthetic ATF as they will all be similar. Around here Mobil 1 ATF is in every auto parts store. The boxes were designed for ATF.

http://red90.ca/rovers/MTF.htm

 

[El Pinchi]

Update: I just checked the bias springs and they seem to be set correctly. It shifts straight up and down and very smoothly into 3 and 4th gear. And, when the the engine is off and not moving and pressing on the clutch, the tranny shifts smoothly into all the gears. It only gives me problems when Im driving. I already shot Ashcroft an email yesterday but no response yet. They tend to be very slow in replying and not always answer my question at hand.

 

[Red90]

What about stopped and engine running? If it is hard then, your clutch is probably dragging.

 

[El Pinchi]

What about stopped and engine running? If it is hard then, your clutch is probably dragging.

Yes, when I come to a stop and the engine is running, that's when is difficult to shift into gear. 1st will go in after a couple tries but 2nd is the problem. I forgot to mention that I had the clutch master replace about 2 years ago and when the work was done the mechanic said the fluid was very dirty and sludge like and I believe he said he couldn't shift into gear. He had to flush it a couple times and then it shifted. Should I change that...maybe the problem? Dorman Clutch master conversion kit the way to go to solve the dragging issue?

 

[El Pinchi]

Just an update: determined the clutch was dragging so upgraded to Dorman and new slave (cast iron) and got the adjustment on the pedal corrected. Huge thanks to everyone for your insight and help!
Eddie

 

[El Pinchi]

Well, still troubleshooting hard shifting jnto gears. Going to try and adjust clutch pedal throw. Just 2 days ago the pedal got very hard and now there is no play in The pedal. In the resting position it’s all the way up and very firm. I think the clutch is still dragging and need to adjust push rod closer toward bulkhead. Any thoughts what it could be. Sorry to beat this down again. Thanks in advance!

 

[javelinadave]

So frustrating. Did you drain the fluid to see if there were any unwanted “treasures” in it? I’m starting to wonder if your clutch or throw out bearing may be your issue assuming Ashcroft did the rebuild correctly. Did you get a factory or aftermarket clutch kit?

 

[Red90]

Did you change the clutch and bearing? Clutch definitely in the right way around? Definitely V8 bearing and V8 slave? Pedal adjusted per manual?

 

[El Pinchi]

So frustrating. Did you drain the fluid to see if there were any unwanted “treasures” in it? I’m starting to wonder if your clutch or throw out bearing may be your issue assuming Ashcroft did the rebuild correctly. Did you get a factory or aftermarket clutch kit?

I was going to drain and fill today but it has been raining these last 2 days. I hope to change the fluid tomorrow. New HD LOF clutch from RN installed.

Did you change the clutch and bearing? Clutch definitely in the right way around? Definitely V8 bearing and V8 slave? Pedal adjusted per manual?

Yes, new clutch and bearing. Yes, the clutch is in correctly. I thought I had the pedal adjusted per the manual but honestly, I did have a hell of a time adjusting it in place. I must have not done it correctly.

I think I have finally got it adjusted properly. Adjusted the clutch pedal slight towards the bulkhead and now I have the correct amount of free play in the pedal. Strange, when we installed the new Dorman MC there was play and then it disappeared a few days later. Maybe there was still air in the line somewhere. Fingers crossed that it is set correctly. It shifts very nicely and the pedal feels very smooth.
Thanks Gentleman for your constant input and suggestions.