GM 292 Straight 6 - Yet another conversion

85RED110

Well-known member
With the power of the 292 as impressive as you say it is, I would think a 1.2 LT230 would do fine in your truck. Could see your MPG's improve even more over the 1.4, especially if you drive more conservatively than 75.
 

RDavisinVA

Well-known member
With the power of the 292 as impressive as you say it is, I would think a 1.2 LT230 would do fine in your truck. Could see your MPG's improve even more over the 1.4, especially if you drive more conservatively than 75.
The change to the 1.22 is buried deep in my to-do list, but yes agreed.
 

RDavisinVA

Well-known member
Filled up coming back from Uwharrie 153 miles out.
Then filled up and the tank took 10.7 gallons.
153/10.7 = 14.29906542056075 MPG at 40 to 70 MPH.
 

RBBailey

Well-known member
Callsign: KF7KFZ
That's almost .50 less than what we pay here. Premium is still higher than diesel, which is usually within a couple pennies of diesel one way or another.
 

RDavisinVA

Well-known member
Bought gas today for $1.91 cost per gallon (CPG) which was $1.05 cheaper than diesel at $2.96.

So here is the CPG per MPG @ 100 miles driving, as follows:
$1.91 14 0.1364285714 13.6428571429
$2.96 20 0.1480000000 14.8
$2.96 21 0.1409523810 14.0952380952
$2.96 22 0.1345454545 13.4545454545

@ $1.91 CPG @14 MPG, it costs $13.64 to drive 100 miles
@ $2.96 CPG @20 MPG, it costs $14.80 to drive 100 miles
@ $2.96 CPG @21 MPG, it costs $14.09 to drive 100 miles
@ $2.96 CPG @22 MPG, it costs $13.45 to drive 100 miles

Unless our diesel gets 22 MPG or better, it is more expensive to drive than the 292 based on the calculated 14MPG and our local fuel costs.
 

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O2batsea

Well-known member
I never understood this obsession with MPG. Fuel is like THE least of the costs of driving. Even at twice the price it's still a lot less than the amortized cost of the vehicle itself, maintenance, parts, labor, insurance etc...
If you figure all that stuff in it's actually a heck of a lot more than $14 bucks to drive a hundy.
And let's be real. Even if it cost $45 for gas to go 100 miles you'd still do it.
 

85RED110

Well-known member
Probably not a common problem amongst the rest of this community, but if you live off a meager paycheck like I do, mpg is a factor.

If my truck returned better than 9mpg, you bet your ass I would drive it more.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

RDavisinVA

Well-known member
Bill and Kent both make excellent points...

The only reason for the analysis was because of the diesel guys asking about and wanting to factor in the Chevy 292 mileage earlier in this thread.

I want to do a conversion cost per HP and Torque.
The Chevy 292 would be the cheapest by far compared to the LS and Cummins.
Think it's only real competition cost wise would come from a used rover V8 drivetrain pulled from a Disco I or the GM 3.0 liter 4 cylinder we build.
 

O2batsea

Well-known member
Just get the engine you like and be happy! Really, the whole Land Rover thing is not cheap. You don't get into it cz it's a low priced, easy to maintain 4WD vehicle. You get into it cz they get into your blood. Once there, there's no not feeding the beast. You just pay and pay or you quit. That's the only choice here. Cost analysis doesn't really make a bunch of difference in the big picture but I guess it helps when mansplaining the shit to your better half.
 

RDavisinVA

Well-known member
Just get the engine you like and be happy! Really, the whole Land Rover thing is not cheap. You don't get into it cz it's a low priced, easy to maintain 4WD vehicle. You get into it cz they get into your blood. Once there, there's no not feeding the beast. You just pay and pay or you quit. That's the only choice here. Cost analysis doesn't really make a bunch of difference in the big picture but I guess it helps when mansplaining the shit to your better half.
This sounds like something that some profound poet would have said and been quoted on for a hundred years!
 
Thank you for all your talent, expertise and the deep love of Land Rovers that we all share in this crazy but wonderful community.
I 've read this thread twice (probably more than I'd like to admit)
and thinking about this conversion, seriously
Thank you again for sharing , sir.


www.singingcamel.com
 

RDavisinVA

Well-known member
Machinist was out last night doing a mock up of the RHD PS pump and alternator.
Getting closer to having some kits.
 

RDavisinVA

Well-known member
When you road in it, the sniper was reading 76% throttle, and it was fast then.
For fun trimmed the bottom of the accelerator petal to get 100% throttle.
Now I'd say if your willing to start in 2nd and only shift once into 3rd, then wind it up you can get there in roughly 3 to 5 seconds with a 1.4 LT230.
 

RDavisinVA

Well-known member
Updates as to how the kits are coming, no final pricing yet.

The prototype mounting plates for the Delco alternator and the saginaw power steering pump for RHD vehicles are due to be completed next week.
Then we'll have a few manufactured to go with the first few RHD kit offerings.

As of now the kit will contain:
Engine adapter with, dust shield, Flywheel drilled for the Land Rover clutch, pilot bushing housing for the Land Rover pilot bushing, metal mounts from engine to stock frame (4 cylinder pre 300TDI or V8), crank and water pump pulleys, PS and alternator pump mounts for LHD and RHD, machined offenhauser intake manifold and custom fabricated adapter to fit the Holley Sniper 2300 2 barrel EFI and machined to mate to the larger exhaust manifold, accelerator linkage bracket, larger exhaust manifold machined to mount to the engine hold down hardware and use the offenhauser intake manifold (has a 2.5" down-pipe, thermostat water outlet elbow with thermal switch for electric fan, 1/8" brass pipe connection with oil pressure warning light and has a female fitting for the standard VDO oil pressure gauge sender, nuts and bolts.

We are also working on the radiator and the power steering hoses.

Manifolds are optional, but available in sets only with a 2.5" short down pipe with the O2 sensor bung.
The down pipe will have a bolt on flange at the bottom so you can disconnect the lower down pipe and not have to deal with disconnecting the down pipe from the exhaust manifold. Both sides of the flange will be included.
The only custom exhaust pipe will go between the bottom of the down pipe and extend over to the stock system just before the muffler.

So you'll bolt this stuff onto a Chevy inline 6, bolt on your Land Rover clutch (that you buy separately or reuse), drop the engine in that will bolt right to your frane and Rover transmission belhousing, bolt on a new starter (that you buy separately), bolt in an electric fan behind the radiator (that you buy seaprately), bolt on the fuel pump to the frame rail, and run the fuel lines (comes with the Holley Sniper kit).

If you prep the engine with all the parts except for the starter and install the electric fan ahead of time, you can be fully installed in a day or so.
If not the entire conversion will take 2 or 3 days depending on how fast you are.
I did a complete engine swap in a little over a half day when swapping from the prototype engine over to the rebuilt engine.

This weekend am swapping to a 1.22 transfer case and installing a heavy duty stumpy (I know it's probably overkill, but had it from a canceled order).

Will post up a few more pictures as time allows.
 

RDavisinVA

Well-known member
The overall goal is an easy to install kit that will provide excellent performance and reliability with a domestic engine that is cheap and easily maintained.
Lastly, it will be a bolt in kit for the DIY owner that is easily installed in a few days.
 
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