Front Radius Arm Bushings... and then oops.
- Thread starter SaintPanzer
- Start date
SaintPanzer
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SaintPanzer
Well-known member
Not sure. As I said, the holes in the washers are different sizes, and the way I have it is the only way they'd fit. That said, they both have a cup in them, so really don't know what to say. Looking at this photo from a slightly different angle, you can just barely make out the cup in my front one, so I'd say we are the same... except mine is galled, and yours is not.
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SaintPanzer
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I would just use a cut off wheel to cut mostly through nut, metal chisel to finish it off or gap it alittle and then spin off and service the threads in arm
SaintPanzer
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Thanks. That's what I was thinking, except I couldn't find an appropriate cut-off wheel. So I drilled some holes in the flats, and started going at them with the cold chisel. I may still order the nut cracker. Could not get to it today, maybe tomorrow. If I get fed up with the cold chisel, I'll get the nut cracker. That said, any idea on the thread size/pitch? I will need to buy a die.
Did you install an aftermarket nut instead of the original?
SaintPanzer
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Minor victories: I was able to crack the nut with the cold chisel/drill technique, and finally have it off. I do not think I can save these threads with a simple M20 die chase:
So I'm in the market for a new bar. I've already contacted Gwynn Lewis (where I purchased the bushings) to see if they have a reconditioned one available (awaiting reply) and will also contact the previously mentioned site here in Germany.
To answer the question re: the aftermarket nut... yes. A set of nuts came with the bushings, and in my ignorance, I believed the "brand new, virgin" nut would be better than the 22 year old one.
Other note for the record, in case some other rookie comes along doing research before he gets in to this: If you are holding the cold chisel while also cupping the cup washer so that it doesn't "ring", when the chisel cuts through, you run the risk of pinching the meaty part of your hand between the chisel and the washer. When this happens, it's helpful to have a band aid near by, to keep you from getting too much blood on the washer. Just a helpful tip.
So I'm in the market for a new bar. I've already contacted Gwynn Lewis (where I purchased the bushings) to see if they have a reconditioned one available (awaiting reply) and will also contact the previously mentioned site here in Germany.
To answer the question re: the aftermarket nut... yes. A set of nuts came with the bushings, and in my ignorance, I believed the "brand new, virgin" nut would be better than the 22 year old one.
Other note for the record, in case some other rookie comes along doing research before he gets in to this: If you are holding the cold chisel while also cupping the cup washer so that it doesn't "ring", when the chisel cuts through, you run the risk of pinching the meaty part of your hand between the chisel and the washer. When this happens, it's helpful to have a band aid near by, to keep you from getting too much blood on the washer. Just a helpful tip.
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SaintPanzer
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Z.G
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Just grab a used Disco one, they're everywhere and super cheap
erover82
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Are you alluding to aftermarket nuts being grade 5.8 or something else?
No, but the aftermarket one looks like stainless steel to me. I never have good luck with stainless steel fasteners. The factory ones could be stainless as well for all I know. I was just curious since the nut looked new.
Z.G
Well-known member
I had a similar situation happen with a SS trailing arm nut(same nut, same situation)
If not rusty, factory hardware is probably superior to most aftermarket replacements