Front Radius Arm Bushings... and then oops.

SaintPanzer

Well-known member
It looks like the threads galled and seized. I put off the shelf M20s on mine with no issues, but as usual, I coat everything with grease to keep from rusting or seizing. I also added the YRM stainless washers.

Yeah... I had it on "temporarily", and was actually pulling it off to add the anti-seize.

I'll check the other nut I have to see if it's stainless, but I think it is magnetic... I know there's "magnetic stainless", but it's the easiest way to check. It came with the Super Blue kit, so I didn't really think it would be that much of a problem.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I wouldn’t pull the other side apart. May as well wait for the poly bushings to fail and worry about it then.
 
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SaintPanzer

Well-known member
I wouldn’t pull the other side apart. May as well wait for the poly bushings to fail and worry about it then.

Here, you are confusing me. The "other side" hasn't been touched yet, and those rubber bushings have failed. I need to pull this side, re-use the polys, then do the other side. It looks like I can get a pair, galvanized, from Gwynn Lewis for a reasonable price (considering the galvanizing), and go from there...
 

erover82

Well-known member
Will that actually prevent it from galling and pulling the threads?

No guarantees, but any lubricant will help greatly. Unfortunately, unless you had the foresight to coat the threads with antiseize, the only lubricant you’re getting in there is a penetrating oil.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Here, you are confusing me. The "other side" hasn't been touched yet, and those rubber bushings have failed. I need to pull this side, re-use the polys, then do the other side. It looks like I can get a pair, galvanized, from Gwynn Lewis for a reasonable price (considering the galvanizing), and go from there...

My Mistake, i thought you had already replaced the other side with poly.
 

SaintPanzer

Well-known member
Just a follow up: Sourced a couple of galvanized arms from Gwyn Lewis. Things went together well, a bit fiddly on the starboard side since I couldn't really see to line the front holes up. Using the strap winch on the axle was incredibly helpful. Took it for a test drive yesterday and all was fine, but I could probably use an alignment now. Have the back A Frame left to do, but may pay to have that done, as I don't have a lift. Hobby shop back on base is open again, could use the lift there, but now I'm a bit skittish in case something goes wrong.

Did notice along the way that the front jacking points are rusting out. My long term plan is a new bumper, I can do that then... maybe. For now, I do need to re-paint the roof (not only are there leaks, but a large portion of paint has been flaking off and the aluminum is bare. Ordered filter/gasket ring/new plug for an oil change. At some point I will wire in the fog lights because I know I will need them this winter. Next summer will be swivel balls (one seal is definitely leaking) and maybe shocks/springs. About due for a new timing belt as well, I need to watch a lot more videos there. Oh yeah, and general silliness on the diamond plate wing guards. Whoever put them on put them on OVER the vents that are there, so I need to take them off, pull the wing vents, replace the diamond plate and then install correctly. I may take the opportunity to put on a snow guard, because that will come in handy this winter, too. Always projects.
 

MonLand

Active member
Just a follow up: Sourced a couple of galvanized arms from Gwyn Lewis. Things went together well, a bit fiddly on the starboard side since I couldn't really see to line the front holes up. Using the strap winch on the axle was incredibly helpful. Took it for a test drive yesterday and all was fine, but I could probably use an alignment now. Have the back A Frame left to do, but may pay to have that done, as I don't have a lift.
Did my A-frame just a few weeks ago on my driveway. The hard part was not to pull or re-install it. A trick to get the ball joint to unseat itself: remove the nut, spray a lot of liquid wrench, re-install the nut, but only screw it the length of the nut. Go for a dynamic test drive. You should hear it pop.
The hard part was to get it to split (maybe not necessary?). The two bolts that keep the three pieces together seem to rust inside their holes. It took “some” liquid wrench and a lot of heat to get them to turn. (I only have a plumbing torch so... my definition of “a lot of heat” might not be the same as others! ;) ).
i decided to just replace the ball joint, so needed a press (20T was plenty), but it looks like you can buy a ball joint already pressed to the metal piece for (maybe) not that much more.
 
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