Electric window, alarm central and electric lock

Francisco

Member
Hello.
I am new here and before posting I did a search on the forum and did not find the answer to my question.

I have a Defender 90 (model year 2000).
This generation has no electric window and no electric lock. The only item that was sold as an option was the alarm, but this Defender has no alarm panel.
What I want to do is put an alarm panel, electric locks and electric windows.

I want to follow the factory standard.

For the windows I will use CUH000082 and CUH000092 parts
For electric lock I will use parts FUD500020 and FUD500030.

But I had several doubts.

Firstly, there are a multitude of models for alarm panels. I didn't find any technical material regarding the alarm panels, so I don't know which one to choose from the countless ones available. (number "1" in the 2 diagrams.) Not to mention other accessories such as coil engine immobilizer, key fob reciver, spider unit assembly immobilization




The internal panel of my door is the MWC8270 (photo attached).


IMG_20200926_172034657.jpg




I'm not sure but I believe that this model is not compatible with the electric window. If I'm wrong let me know. If I change it will be for the BDO710020. So I ask if this panel is compatible with the electric lock.


There is also the question of the electric lock (FUD500020)

I don't know how they are attached to the door. In the diagrams the lock appears "floating in the air". It is not informed which components are used to fix it. (component number 30 in the 2 diagrams). I don't know exactly where and how it is installed.


Another issue is the wiring used between the door and the body. Would it be LR016316?

When installing the wiring, it will be necessary to make a cutout in the casing front door. How was this opening made?


(If my translation was not clear enough let me know)


TY



Resultados da Web
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
Esse é o mesmo painel da porta interna que minha caminhonete tinha e precisava ser trocado para o estilo mais recente. Pode ser usado para sua conversão, mas exigirá um pouco de retrabalho, o que eu não queria fazer. Eu diria que o painel da porta mais recente também seria mais compatível com a configuração da trava de energia de fábrica, mas novamente isso é um palpite.
Se você for usar interruptores de fábrica, eu também encomendaria o chicote elétrico de fábrica. Se você for usar os interruptores Carling, terá que fazer seu próprio arnês.
Boa sorte e poste um tutorial sobre a instalação do power lock.
 

Francisco

Member
I plan to use the original buttons. So when you talk about wiring, do you refer to LR016316 or talk about another wiring?

Because then I have another problem because I don't know what the missing wiring code is.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
You don’t have to use the factory wiring but it won’t be plug and play. I’m guessing nobody here has done what you are asking about. Please document what you’re doing for our tech section.
 

4RF RDS

Well-known member
What engine? Are you sure it does not have the 10AS alarm and immobilization ECU behind the gauges?
 
Last edited:

Francisco

Member
300 TDI engine. Well, they never told me about the alarm. I do not think so.

Besides, I don't know if it had this alarm, I don't know if it would be compatible with the electric locks and windows.
 
Last edited:

4RF RDS

Well-known member
300 TDI engine. Well, they never told me about the alarm. I do not think so.

Besides, I don't know if it had this alarm, I don't know if it would be compatible with the electric locks and windows.


The 10AS is the only alarm used in Defenders. It should be there. A 10AS ECU can easily be hacked to add the feed for door locks. Suggest you pull the gauges and look for the unit. It should be green for that vintage... However it might also be black. If you have it you can add an alarm sounder and a universal door lock system to your Defender.
1602081697928.png
 

Francisco

Member
The 10AS is the only alarm used in Defenders. It should be there. A 10AS ECU can easily be hacked to add the feed for door locks. Suggest you pull the gauges and look for the unit. It should be green for that vintage... However it might also be black. If you have it you can add an alarm sounder and a universal door lock system to your Defender.
View attachment 15116

Is 10 AS the only alarm model?


But the code AMR6431 appears in your alarm.


If all are 10 AS, why are there so many different codes?

This can be seen in these 2 links:

https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams...ancillaries/alarm-remote-locking-system_52799


Of these models that are on the links, none is safer from tampering or all are equally vulnerable? Which one would be the last (newest) and in theory most secure?

Sorry for the silly questions but you've seen how new I am
 
Last edited:

4RF RDS

Well-known member
Is 10 AS the only alarm model?


But the code AMR6431 appears in your alarm.


If all are 10 AS, why are there so many different codes?

This can be seen in these 2 links:

https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams...ancillaries/alarm-remote-locking-system_52799


Of these models that are on the links, none is safer from tampering or all are equally vulnerable? Which one would be the last (newest) and in theory most secure?

Sorry for the silly questions but you've seen how new I am
Various versions of the same ECU due to engine differences, 300 Tdi, Td5, 2.2 Tdci, 2.4 etc and the number of doors and the like. If you are looking for alarm only I would suggest you consider installing an aftermarket unit with door locks. Food for thought.

Also if you are determined to install genuine I suggest you look for Pace Automotive they make wiring looms for most anything Defender and are very knowledgeable about what you are considering doing. https://pace4x4.com/
 
Top