OK...
I have new door seals that are only 10k miles old. After getting them installed, I made sure each door shut well, but was never really satisfied with how they each sat. That is, they sagged, or they were further in/out top/bottom, whatever. I decided to start with the driver's door to readjust and try to close the gaps a bit. This door did shut fairly well, opened well, but when it was shut there was a bit of daylight across the aft top edge, and the door was sagging to the aft as well.
I have "new" hex type bolts in place, with CorrosionX on all parts, highly recommend. And the striker plate was secured with bolts with star drive heads. In other words, these things make it super easy to loosen and adjust.
I decided that since the door and body are really the thing we are trying to match up, I would remove the seals this time. After a few minutes, I was able to get the door squared up really well, and it closed really well with all edges and surfaces even and flush with the body. I currently have no shims in the door or bulkhead side of the hinge, but since the door is flush with the bulkhead and pillar, I have decided that this should be good.... then I reinstalled the seal.
It is still straight. But I can't get it to actually close and latch with the stupid Defender seals. I can't get the thought out of my head that there must be a better way. There must be an alternative way of installing a simple seal around the frame or the door itself.
Have any of you had any success using a simple stick on, flat seal? Or, what am I doing wrong?
The door bottom is flush and square. The door top sits a bit tight, but it is flexible enough that this really should not matter.
I have new door seals that are only 10k miles old. After getting them installed, I made sure each door shut well, but was never really satisfied with how they each sat. That is, they sagged, or they were further in/out top/bottom, whatever. I decided to start with the driver's door to readjust and try to close the gaps a bit. This door did shut fairly well, opened well, but when it was shut there was a bit of daylight across the aft top edge, and the door was sagging to the aft as well.
I have "new" hex type bolts in place, with CorrosionX on all parts, highly recommend. And the striker plate was secured with bolts with star drive heads. In other words, these things make it super easy to loosen and adjust.
I decided that since the door and body are really the thing we are trying to match up, I would remove the seals this time. After a few minutes, I was able to get the door squared up really well, and it closed really well with all edges and surfaces even and flush with the body. I currently have no shims in the door or bulkhead side of the hinge, but since the door is flush with the bulkhead and pillar, I have decided that this should be good.... then I reinstalled the seal.
It is still straight. But I can't get it to actually close and latch with the stupid Defender seals. I can't get the thought out of my head that there must be a better way. There must be an alternative way of installing a simple seal around the frame or the door itself.
Have any of you had any success using a simple stick on, flat seal? Or, what am I doing wrong?
The door bottom is flush and square. The door top sits a bit tight, but it is flexible enough that this really should not matter.