Door identification question

dkemm

Well-known member
I just picked up a set of used doors - I am pretty excited as I am pretty sure I got a great deal on them.

I am looking for some insight as to model year identification.
I have an '88 Ninety - that had some bubbling on bottom exterior and lots of previous (less than clean) welds on the doors - but were in fair shape.
The new to me doors (still had the Land Rover foam - I hear these are just a second level of water holding), have a larger interior panel, and the gear for the window is "clip on" style vs the screw on that I had.
Is there way to tell if these are LR doors or a specific aftermarket door?
Is there a way to determine the model year (for electric window motor) selection

Here are some pics.
 

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JimC

Super Moderator
Staff member
these are 2002+ doors identifiable by the stamped frames with rounded interior corners rather than the mitered and welded frames on older doors. They are superior in basically every way and can be fitted with genuine power window parts if you like. They are however all steel without aluminum skins.
 

dkemm

Well-known member
these are 2002+ doors identifiable by the stamped frames with rounded interior corners rather than the mitered and welded frames on older doors. They are superior in basically every way and can be fitted with genuine power window parts if you like. They are however all steel without aluminum skins.
thanks Jim..... all steel explains the weight...
Would you happen to know the part numbers for the power windows? I have a set that I had to "retrofit" into my current doors (lower wheel running tracks).... I figure I will need to repurchase them so they are in "factory' shape
 

Ozzie

Well-known member
Hi there. Congrats on the Puma doors.
I TOO HAVE A 1988 LR90 and went this route. Check out this video I made for my YT channel. It will explain alot..
 

dkemm

Well-known member
Hi there. Congrats on the Puma doors.
I TOO HAVE A 1988 LR90 and went this route. Check out this video I made for my YT channel. It will explain alot..
Thanks Ozzie for a great share.
are you running adapters on your boosts? I am assuming that you still have rear drums?
 

Ozzie

Well-known member
Hi.
Thanks Ozzie for a great share.
are you running adapters on your boosts? I am assuming that you still have rear drums?

The previous owner swapped out the entire drivetrain with a 1996 300 tdi/R380/Lt230 1.2 with front and back 24 spline disc axles.
I thank him often for the work he put into his 90 before I bought it.
 

dkemm

Well-known member
Hi.


The previous owner swapped out the entire drivetrain with a 1996 300 tdi/R380/Lt230 1.2 with front and back 24 spline disc axles.
I thank him often for the work he put into his 90 before I bought it.
well, I am not that far off... will 'soon' have my R2.8 and HD R380 - the LT230 1.2 with ATB is already here. Was waiting to complete the engine swap before getting to the F/R diffs - will likley go ATB and get rid of the 10splines. Maybe if I stumble across some D1 axles.....then I can get my disc upgrade....
 
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dkemm

Well-known member
Well, the swap was pretty painless. The power locks just about transferred over - need to drill new holes the power windows were much easier into the proper inner panels! (I had to custom measure and mount in the old style inner panels) both doors took about 2.5hours to mount and transfer all electrics. Here are some pictures of the old doors and the new doors installed.
I do need to get new door cards - old ones had different curves.
 

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dkemm

Well-known member
Here are the new doors installed.
Interesting find....the old doors weighed just about as much as the new doors - that is alot of welding to keep the old ones together.

If anyone is in need of the old doors or any parts from the old doors - just pay shipping, otherwise, they will likely hit the scrap yard (I will probably hold the glass as those dont take up too much space).
 

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dkemm

Well-known member
@Ozzie, where did you get your lock barrels?
I went to transfer my old ones and they are smaller diameter.
If I am understanding correctly, these use the "ignition key" style barrels...so the same key for locks and ignition?
did you replace your ignition lock as well?
I have recently replaced my ignition lock - so that I could have 2 keys...it would be nice to have 1 key for ignition, doors....but not sure if Ib could fit the same/matching barrel into the rear door....so I would still have a different key for that door.
I tried doing some searching, but the descriptions are rather poor - and I have no idea what part number(s) to search for.
 

Ozzie

Well-known member
Yes I purchased a compete set from RN. Full ignition assembly and 3 lock cylinders. I have a rear Puma door so all doors and Ignition use the same key
 

dkemm

Well-known member
Don't they close so much better?
They do now.....I spent some time today on alignment and working the seals. I had to remove the lower seal (existing on the body) so that the new lower seal was retained (and properly sheds water outside). They close much better and now have GREAT alignment! Now if the rest of my ninety had glossy paint...
 

dkemm

Well-known member
Other than alignment, why would closing be improved?
1. easier
2. much more consistent closing
I am guessing that it would be a couple of items - heavier doors (non aluminum) and much more SOLID door. The originals had welds in just about every corner...and then some. The windows also rattled due to loose channels in the doors. I am guessing that the 'loose' parts would absorb energy that affected closure. The old doors were aligned in the door frame, but never really closed flush with the body (adjusted the latch as much as possible). The new doors also seal evenly - which the old ones did not in some places - likely due to the numerous welds and patches.
 
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