D1 with body lift: rear/front bumper options?

M

MonLand

Active member
Does anyone have first or second hand information to share regarding front and rear bumper options./pitfalls/etc for a D1 with a (2" in this case) body lift?

I'm investigating the build vs buy route and before I start reaching out to vendors (for the buy part), I'd like to understand what has been done/tried already.

Thanks!
(not looking for feedback on doing or not a body lift, that decision was made a few months and the lift is almost done; still happy to discuss that with anyone in a separate thread)
 
rocky

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
I ran with stock rear bumper and a simple blade style on my D1. Plus a lift and winch. Suited me just fine.
If you can get one that’s galvy under the powder coat even better. An A frame or full brush guard will help you mount radio antenna and lights.
Does SG make a D1 bumper? The originals were functional and looked great.
 
M

MonLand

Active member
rocky said:
I ran with stock rear bumper and a simple blade style on my D1. Plus a lift and winch. Suited me just fine.
If you can get one that’s galvy under the powder coat even better. An A frame or full brush guard will help you mount radio antenna and lights.
Does SG make a D1 bumper? The originals were functional and looked great.
Click to expand...
SG makes D1 bumpers. No provision for body lifts.
 
C

Caligula

Well-known member
for a body lift, you need 10 pucks, maximum height allowed in Va, 2 inches.
following such, you need to extend rear seat belt anchors (X2) radiator support pegs, steering shaft (extension needs to be welded), an extension is needed for the transfer case lever, the gear shifter due to it being cable can stay in place, same with parking brake cable.
bumper gap, on a home made lift I used the same nylon stuff used at bottom of walls, I think it is called "flashing".
another vehicle had ARB bumpers, those have enough material on the mount brackets so they can be redrilled to fit. I think for the rear some material was added to get the height needed and keep rigidity.
another 2 the owners decided to keep it with a 2 inch body gap between the body and the chassis
finally adjust your headlights.
except for the 1 home made, all kits came out of rovertym back when they were in richmond va.

you will need longer brake lines as well, dont forget longer body bolts and those at rear doors are removed with nut down, the new bolts have to be installed nut up due to their lenght.
 
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