Clutch Slave & Master Cylinder Question

[GynormousMellon]

I have a 89 ROW, 110, RHD with a 3.5L V8 and a LT85 transmission.

I've had to add fluid to the Master Clutch Cylinder more this year then anytime before. I was deployed over seas and the 110 sat in the garage for 100+ days without being started. Went to start her when I returned and as soon as I pushed in the clutch, it went to the floor with zero resistance other than the spring on the clutch peddle. It has done this in the past when low on fluid but not this bad with zero resistance.

I added fluid, it was a little low but not out, and there is no change in the zero peddle pressure. Checked the slave cylinder and there is fluid leaking around it and it is pretty crusty looking and obviously leaking. The Master cylinder looks pretty new but I have no idea. No service records when/if it was swapped out.

Couple of questions that I have:

It looks to me like the slave is going/gone or is it a combination of both? I don't see any fluid inside the cab at the peddles. Is it best to just replace them both at the same time?

I found this Master cylinder. Is it the best one to get? I would rather spend more for quality than get something less expensive and have to do the repair again.

Clutch Master Cylinder Conversion Kit - for Land Rover Defender & Series

The original Clutch Master Cylinder on a Land Rover Defender (model year 1983-2006) & Series late-IIA & III (model year late-1971-1984) trucks are made from aluminum, and as such is prone to having the inner wall of the cylinder wear over time…creating a situation where the clutch master may...

www.seriesdefender.com

Any suggestions where to get the slave from? I would like to also replace the metal "U" shaped tube for the slave since it is also pretty crusty as well.

Any tips on how to bleed after replacing the parts? Are there any tools that makes bleeding easier?

 

[Napalm00]

The dorman conversion is worthwhile. For the slave just call Trevor at Rovahfarm and he can hook you up the new OEM one. He can also get you the small metal brake line or you can make it yourself.

Bleeding is a pain in the ass. It's best done with two people. No special tools needed beyond a lot of patience

I would replace both.

 

[GynormousMellon]

I ordered the master cylinder from Jason @ Series Defender Outfitters. SUPER helpful guy. Also ordered the slave from Rovers North and the other needed parts for this fix. I'll update once I complete the job.

 

[EBS]

I actually just did all this. Went with the Dorman from SDO which comes with a nice flexible replacement for the upper hardline. I got the rest of the parts, including the OEM slave, from lrdirect.com. I will second the comment above re: Jason at SDO, super helpful. I had some questions on the set up of the new master, which Jason graciously helped out with. All in all a very good experience.

 

[Adam]

Replace the pedal with new style as well while you are in there. I got mine from Safari

 

[UnfrozenCaveman]

Master, braided hose, and the slave from SDO ... been in for a couple of years & still works like new. Bench bled the master & just let gravity do the rest. Don't let the resevoir go empty !

 

[defenderholty]

I have seen the dorman conversion. It is expensive. I just replaced for what looked to be the first time, my master cylinder which had been in there since 1984. My master went bad because the spring broke and gouged the cylinder wall which is aluminum. It would have done the exact same thing to cast iron and if the spring breaks, you'll be pulling the master anyway and putting in a rebuild kit. With that in mind, I think the dorman is overkill. My 0.02.

 

[Napalm00]

I have seen the dorman conversion. It is expensive. I just replaced for what looked to be the first time, my master cylinder which had been in there since 1984. My master went bad because the spring broke and gouged the cylinder wall which is aluminum. It would have done the exact same thing to cast iron and if the spring breaks, you'll be pulling the master anyway and putting in a rebuild kit. With that in mind, I think the dorman is overkill. My 0.02.

Well I agree that the doorman conversion is expensive. They do give a how-to on how to do it yourself just by buying the original dorman and swapping over the parts saves about 50%.

 

[4RF RDS]

I recently did both on my 2000MY 110 CSW. I installed a new OE master and LOF slave. I also have the LOF clutch spring kit installed. Wow! What a difference in pedal effort. Major improvement. I highly recommend the LOF slave at a minimum. I was going to install the Dorman master from SDO but realized the original master lasted 20 years. So I decided to spend the money elsewhere. Just thought I’d share.

 

[Baldewin]

How does the Dorman kit interface with 300tdi that has the hard pipe starting right at the master and then gets plumbed across the bulkhead before dropping down to the slave?

 

[GynormousMellon]

How does the Dorman kit interface with 300tdi that has the hard pipe starting right at the master and then gets plumbed across the bulkhead before dropping down to the slave?

They send you a braided hose that replaces the metal pipe. I have the 3.5L V8. When you place your order, they need to know your engine, trans and left or right hand drive. The braided hose takes the place of the hard metal pipe. I haven't installed mine yet but can tell you the quality is top notch. Like others said, there are less expensive out there but I'm all for paying a reasonable amount more for quality and not having to do the repair again in the future! Also my 2 cents

 

[Z.G]

How does the Dorman kit interface with 300tdi that has the hard pipe starting right at the master and then gets plumbed across the bulkhead before dropping down to the slave?

Lav will let you interface with pretty much anything, you just have to let him know. Im running a LHD 300tdi setup with an MT82 transmission which has a goofy slave cylinder setup and he was able to get me a perfect setup.

 

[Baldewin]

Thanks gents for your responses!