Bulkhead Bummer

WK2Burner

Well-known member
Mounting up my roof today and the needed to pull the windshield frame to get rid of a few layers of extra foam tape the PO felt he needed. Once pulled, the lower corners didn't disappoint in a standard defender fashion. The good part from what I can tell is that it does not go down too far. Hard to see in the pics but the rust is only a few inches below the surface, and the back portion towards the dash is pretty solid, and the vent area looks unaffected. Floors are in good shape, as are bulkhead sides.

What is recommended as a brand to to with for a repair piece? Does anyone have one on hand they wont be using. Left side is the what is in need, only a pinhole in the right but will all metal it and frame coat the inside. Happy to buy both if someone has a set they don't need. Also open to any advice from those who have done it. For reference, rest of vehicle is relatively rust free.

definitely a bummer, as i wasn't planning on removing the whole damn dash. fortunately my buddy is a welder, so that wont be difficult just more work than i wanted to do. Thanks in advance.

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Tbaumer

Well-known member
I'll be watching this one. Haven't inspected mine yet, but pretty sure I will have the same mess to deal with (based on the respray & already discovered spots). Post pics as you repair it - some of us are still learning.
 

Napalm00

Well-known member
YRM and Britpart both make patch panels for this exact area. You probably don't even need to remove your dash if your TIG welding it.
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
YRM and Britpart both make patch panels for this exact area. You probably don't even need to remove your dash if your TIG welding it.
yup, was hoping to find on conus, but may put a yrm order together. I asked my buddy exactly that, and he told me TIG will get too hot, but that's his problem, mine is drilling out spot welds and peeling back that top layer. Appreciate the info.
 

BarryO

Well-known member
I think the water runs out the roof drip rails at the corners and runs down into these areas on the bulkhead
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
The foam "seal" holds moisture.
Even just dew in arid climates rots the bulkheads out @ this spot.
Because the lower legs of the bulkhead are open to the elements the only way to insure a bulkhead doesnt rust from the inside out is galvanizing

Galvanize then epoxy prime, I put that crap on thick 3-4 coats across the top of the bulkhead in hopes to prevent this from ever happening again.

If you arent going to galvanize, treat it heavily with Ospho.

If its any consolation I have 3 media blasted bulheads to repair before dipping and they all need repair @ the top corners.
 
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WK2Burner

Well-known member
The foam gasket holds moisture.
Even just dew in arid climates rots the bulkheads out.

We galvanize then epoxy prime and I put that crap on thick 3-4 coats across the top of the bulkhead to prevent this from ever happening again.

Francis, noticed from the pictures you have the early "hinge" windshield bracket. The later cast brackets with backing plate are a bit of an upgrade in rigidity etc imo.
The new style (OEM) brackets are already etch primered and epoxy coated. Just finished those up last week and planned on putting them on before I found all of this mess.

About that gasket...I saw a proline, bearmach, and britpart. Honestly, the britpart was thicker and wider than the other two, but the (assumed) OEM one I pulled off the bottom was in better shape at 28 years old than all the new ones out of the package. The one on there was very thick and heavy rubber foam. What do you use to replace? Is genuine LR the way to go?
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
The new style (OEM) brackets are already etch primered and epoxy coated. Just finished those up last week and planned on putting them on before I found all of this mess.

About that gasket...I saw a proline, bearmach, and britpart. Honestly, the britpart was thicker and wider than the other two, but the (assumed) OEM one I pulled off the bottom was in better shape at 28 years old than all the new ones out of the package. The one on there was very thick and heavy rubber foam. What do you use to replace? Is genuine LR the way to go?
Not sure the best way to go. I've done things like add sealant top, bottom, and behind the foam strip. Time will tell.
 

Ren Ching

Member
Original gaskets are abut 3/8" thick and closed cell foam with smooth sides and edges. New seals are about 3/16 or 1/4" thick, not as wide, and appear to be open cell. You shouldn't need to remove the dash to do that repair.
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
picked up the yrm corner pieces on eBay. hopefully once we start to peel back that's all I'll need. thanks all for the info. I'll make way to big of a deal on gasket selection later.
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
Speaking of gaskets, can anyone confirm there is only the single rubber gasket (inside) for roof to windscreen. it's a "D" style gasket with a groove down the center. I've seen a few diagrams that show inner and outer. TDI era top and windscreen. thanks
 

WK2Burner

Well-known member
^bump on above question if anyone is familiar.

Got the YRM panels and they really didn't cover anything that i need short of the face of the left side, so wont be using them. From what we can see the interior is not at all that bad, so will just naval jelly it all then scab in new tops on both sides and the small strip on the right side. It's likely more work than it's worth cutting it all out as the crush tubes for the windshield mounts don't seem to be available, and we want to keep as much of the stock radius that we can. Looking up from the hinge holes it's pretty clean inside, so lucked out I think but will internal frame coat all of it once we are done.


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