Building the perfect 90

erover82

Well-known member
..continued.

IMG_4659.jpeg

Nearly reaching the desired build thickness, I switched to lighter sanding and spraying engine enamel to make slight adjustments.

IMG_4662.jpeg

About four hours of work later, perfect. The timing gear and TVD fit like a glove. The woodruff keys and large crank washer and bolt do most of the work, but this would ensure the assembly starts off centered and supported just right.

With that sorted I moved on to permanent fitment of the crankshaft.

IMG_4513.jpeg

Using RTV in place of T-seals, I cut the nozzle down to a fitted rectangle.

IMG_4516.jpeg

T-seals done in minutes, with no headaches, and much more reliable.

IMG_4520.jpeg

Crankshaft done.
 

erover82

Well-known member
It may appear all this tedious work and progress had distracted me from the primary task - epic parts hoarding, but no, no it hadn't.

BeFunky-collage2.jpg



IMG_4566.jpeg

Brand new wiring harnesses, bumper to bumper.


IMG_4565.jpeg
IMG_4564.jpeg

Occasionally, I'd order multiple of the same part, or those differing by part numbers, just to see the differences if any.


IMG_4381.jpeg

A bit indulgent, but have you ever seen anything so beautiful?


IMG_4376.jpeg

Like genuine, branded comes with that warm fuzzy feeling.


IMG_4909.jpeg

Chassis serving as a glorified shelf after receiving several large packages from RN. I'd finally run out of storage space and couldn't reorganize my way out of it this time.


IMG_4891.jpeg

Finally, the cherry on top. The wife caught in a moment of pure joy and anticipation at what wonders could be contained within the latest delivery.
 
Last edited:

erover82

Well-known member
In my opinion, you’re making a mistake not using Right Stuff.

Maybe. Time will tell. You do this stuff for a living, but I've never had any issues with any of their RTV products, including Right Stuff. Maybe it's because I follow directions or maybe I'm lucky. If my crankshaft repair proves to have been in vain, I'll be glad not to have used it. If it leaks you'll be able to say you told me so, but I don't think you'll get the chance. The way RTV fills every last crevice in the T-seal area, I wouldn't be surprised if nearly any petroleum-resistant RTV worked.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
Maybe. Time will tell. You do this stuff for a living, but I've never had any issues with any of their RTV products, including Right Stuff. Maybe it's because I follow directions or maybe I'm lucky. If my crankshaft repair proves to have been in vain, I'll be glad not to have used it. If it leaks you'll be able to say you told me so, but I don't think you'll get the chance. The way RTV fills every last crevice in the T-seal area, I wouldn't be surprised if nearly any petroleum-resistant RTV worked.
To be honest, I think you’ll be lucky if the T seals or rear main seal. They can be a real pain. Even if it did leak, I wouldn’t say I told you so.

On the subject of RTV, I think just about every Land Rover tech out there exclusively uses Right Stuff because it’s the only thing that always works. I will concede that no mechanics are reading the instructions 😂
 

KGH

Well-known member
I think he will be fine. If not, no I told you so’s, just the irony of the most organized and cataloged build ever leaving puddles of 15/40.

@erover, may I be the first to call dibs on post build spares? 😉
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor

erover82

Well-known member
With the parts library brimming with new and freshly restored parts, I finally had everything in place to build the engine back up. What could go wrong?


IMG_4568.jpeg

Time to install the oil jets.


IMG_4571.jpeg

..or not. This apparently tired banjo bolt gave up before even reaching the lower-end of the torque range.


IMG_4570.jpeg

Removing the broken end of the bolt from the block with an ez out.

I ordered a replacement bolt, and waited..


Eventually I moved on to pistons, figuring I'd squeeze that jet in later when the new bolt came.
IMG_4572.jpeg

Installing new Kolbenschmidt rings.


IMG_4739.jpeg

Assembling rods and pistons with new King bearings.


IMG_4740.jpeg

Don't worry, it's just engine assembly lube. Silicone caps were installed to protect the freshly polished crank journals during assembly.

IMG_4743.jpeg

3 down, 1 to..

IMG_4741.jpeg

NO!

This suicidal ring had slipped out from under the piston ring compressor as I pounded the piston face downward with a rubber mallet handle. It may have been the Jameson's, but I was oblivious to the fact the poor thing was caught between its groove in the piston and the block face. Each blow brought it closer to being sheared in half until it finally was.

I ordered a new set of rings, and waited..
 
Last edited:

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
And I had just broken off the power steering oil return connector to my brand new Cummins R2.8 when trying to rotate it just a couple more degrees.... Shit does happen... New pump ordered and installed...
 

erover82

Well-known member
A week later.

IMG_4776.jpeg

Replacement piston rings arrived.


IMG_4782.jpeg

Smooth sailing this time.


IMG_4796.jpeg

Was slightly concerned the piston protrusion could be way off due to the machine shop replacing the small-end rod bushings without the the special tooling setup the factory has. However, the protrusions were all consistent and correct for a three-hole gasket.


IMG_4784.jpeg
IMG_4583.jpeg

The cam and respective bearings were in great condition so they went back in.


IMG_4787.jpeg

Lubed and installed.


InkedIMG_4791_LI.jpg

I'd intended to reuse the tappets, but upon better cleaning and examination I found some wear I didn't like.


InkedIMG_4793_LI.jpg

The guides also displayed some wear in the form of steps where the rollers rest. The brass components displayed no noticeable wear and were reused.


IMG_4821.jpeg

Another week later and a box of tappet parts and other goods arrives.


IMG_4823.jpeg

Tappets all wrapped up.
 

erover82

Well-known member
IMG_4859.JPEG

Rebuilt the camshaft gear drive housing with new bearings and O-rings. It's a sure sign that when an O-ring shatters, it might have been a bit past due.

IMG_4860.JPEG

Rebuilt the vacuum pump as well. Also media blasted and painted the casting.

66771712726__C1ADF3D9-246E-4EBA-B9C3-87FFBF53822F (1).jpeg

Starting to fit the block with these new, rebuilt, refinished, and/or re-plated parts.

IMG_4868.jpeg

Head back from machine shop, for the second time.. Why?


IMG_4483.jpeg

While hammering away putting new core plugs in, I managed to badly scratch the freshly skimmed surface. I had it on a slab of UHMW, which is an ideal surface except when it is unknowingly contaminated with steel swarf. I don't have a photo of the scratching, but it was extensive. Was probably too busy cursing at it.

IMG_4879.jpeg

After the second skim. Nice and smooth for the MLS gasket.

IMG_4488.jpeg

Chasing all threads. Also repaired several with inserts, as is common with used aluminum parts. This would be a recurring theme..

IMG_4867.jpeg

Part of what contributes to stripped threads in aluminum is the short length of thread engagement of standard double-ended studs. This is fine in stronger materials but in soft alloys it's a recipe for failure. For this reason I spent some time finding compatible studs with more even thread engagement. (Mixed up the studs in the photo but you get the point)

IMG_4884.jpeg

Ready to mate up
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Your core plug accident. I feel your pain.

I was repairing a kitchen cabinet drawer face and put it face down on a workbench while removing glue like residue from the other side….

Definitely a B@gguh moment at my own stupidity.
 

erover82

Well-known member
IMG_4900.jpeg

Head, front cover, and clutch housing mated up. New Corteco rear seal went on like a dream.


IMG_4901.jpeg

Removing worn spigot bushing with the hydraulic grease method.



IMG_5011.jpeg

Pressed new spigot bushing in.


IMG_4903.jpeg

New starter. Actually tried a TD5 starter first, which is lighter and more compact, but the driving gear doesn't extend out enough to mesh properly with the flywheel ring gear.


IMG_4894.jpeg

Oil pump shaft showed spline wear so was replaced with new. The new shaft featured notably longer splines.


66866586621__0C1A733F-A086-44FB-BA3C-30661F0E95F6.jpeg

This was aggravating, to say the least. The new shaft was not properly engaged and so resulted in one oil pump mounting ear shearing off as it was tightened. I immediately shuddered at the thought of what a new genuine oil pump might cost from such a stupid mistake, and how many more weeks I'd have to wait for it, yet again.


IMG_4905.jpeg

Installed the rebuilt rocker shaft and installed some 8mm hardened lash caps (VW Pro AC109461KB). However, I found that due to their wide face, short skirt, and abrupt shoulder they could theoretically become dislodged even with proper valve clearance. This was tested and is displayed above in valve 6. This might never happen in practice, but I didn't like it.


IMG_5009.jpeg

After some searching I took a chance and switched out to Manley 42125-8 caps (made in USA). They are of a more similar shape to original LR caps, but should be much better quality than most of the junk (insufficiently hardened) caps offered for these now, even Genuine.


IMG_5022.jpeg

I set valve clearances again, repeated the dislodging test, and they passed with confidence.
 
Last edited:
Top