Nick&Nora
Well-known member
I broke my 110 over the weekend.
I was doing a vehicle recovery course and got more than I bargained for. At the bottom of a steep hill, I forded a tiny stream and coming up the rocks on the other side, heard a clunk and got stuck. After three separate winch pulls, including using a rope retention pulley for a redirect, and then being towed by a (sigh) Jeep, I definitely learned a bit about recovery.
I had a lot of trouble seating the transfer case selector, and my guess is that linkage isn’t working correctly. At various times I had the truck in high unlocked, high locked, low unlocked, low locked and still had no forward or reverse movement with the clutch fully released (ie, foot, completely off the pedal) on flat, packed dirt. No motion at the wheels.
Ultimately, I was able to move with the transfer case selector in the high locked position. Despite the position of the shifter, it didn’t seem like I was locked, and so I drove home.
My 70-highway-mile drive home was normal except for a decided clunk when the driveline took up any slack. If I was overly gentle with the clutch, I could almost but not totally eliminate this.
The R380 and LT230 are new from when Doug installed the R2.8 about 10K miles ago. The shift tower was replaced with a used unit by Trevor at British 4x4 some 3k miles ago. To the best of my knowledge, the differentials, drive shafts and axles are original to my 155k mile 1989 truck.
My garage has it now and says one of the front half shafts is broken. They recommend replacing both but don’t seem yet to have explored the differential itself to see if there is damage in there.
I’m not a mechanic. I suppose it could be that both of my front half shafts or my front drive shaft is broken, and that the CDL really was locked, but if that were the case, I should have had motion in either low or high.
I asked them to check the transfer case selector linkage, the half shafts, and my U joints, plus a transmission mount for the clunk when shifting. Anything else I should be asking them to consider? They said they haven’t checked the rear dif yet and won’t until they address the front and have a chance to drive it.
My garage is not foreign to Rovers, but I wouldn’t call them enthusiasts. If I’m replacing any of these parts, are there OEM versus aftermarket considerations I should keep in mind? I’d really like to get this sorted before Greek Peak.
Thanks,
Matthew
I was doing a vehicle recovery course and got more than I bargained for. At the bottom of a steep hill, I forded a tiny stream and coming up the rocks on the other side, heard a clunk and got stuck. After three separate winch pulls, including using a rope retention pulley for a redirect, and then being towed by a (sigh) Jeep, I definitely learned a bit about recovery.
I had a lot of trouble seating the transfer case selector, and my guess is that linkage isn’t working correctly. At various times I had the truck in high unlocked, high locked, low unlocked, low locked and still had no forward or reverse movement with the clutch fully released (ie, foot, completely off the pedal) on flat, packed dirt. No motion at the wheels.
Ultimately, I was able to move with the transfer case selector in the high locked position. Despite the position of the shifter, it didn’t seem like I was locked, and so I drove home.
My 70-highway-mile drive home was normal except for a decided clunk when the driveline took up any slack. If I was overly gentle with the clutch, I could almost but not totally eliminate this.
The R380 and LT230 are new from when Doug installed the R2.8 about 10K miles ago. The shift tower was replaced with a used unit by Trevor at British 4x4 some 3k miles ago. To the best of my knowledge, the differentials, drive shafts and axles are original to my 155k mile 1989 truck.
My garage has it now and says one of the front half shafts is broken. They recommend replacing both but don’t seem yet to have explored the differential itself to see if there is damage in there.
I’m not a mechanic. I suppose it could be that both of my front half shafts or my front drive shaft is broken, and that the CDL really was locked, but if that were the case, I should have had motion in either low or high.
I asked them to check the transfer case selector linkage, the half shafts, and my U joints, plus a transmission mount for the clunk when shifting. Anything else I should be asking them to consider? They said they haven’t checked the rear dif yet and won’t until they address the front and have a chance to drive it.
My garage is not foreign to Rovers, but I wouldn’t call them enthusiasts. If I’m replacing any of these parts, are there OEM versus aftermarket considerations I should keep in mind? I’d really like to get this sorted before Greek Peak.
Thanks,
Matthew