Brakes & Things

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...+v8,1187074,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+seal,1860

the rear seal that holds the bearing in

RTC3511 is the OEM number National 710756 looks like an equivalence

for future reference since the hub seals are all the same just lookup a disco or defender on rockauto if you want american part numbers



The seal area that is covered in crap ion your pic hopefully will be in good enough condition to hold grease in. if it all scored up, plan on replacing it when you convert to discs. If you can feel a ridge or a groove that cant be polished out with red scotchbrite by hand, its trash
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Thanks.

So rockauto seems to work correctly for people? And the seal on a disc brake hub from ‘95 is going to be the same as mine?
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
My 'trail fix' seems OK right now. That is, everything went back together fine, and no wobbling hub. I purposefully reused all parts in the hope that I can make it drivable till I can put together the kit needed to swap to discs. So it's just a learning experience, and an experiment to see if I could reset it and maybe not get leaks.... for a bit. I will drive it tomorrow, then pull the wheel and drum off to check for leaks.

However, in the mean time I have to deal with these brakes not adjusting properly. The only thing I can think of is that the drums are warped too much to adjust. I thought I had it today, but then after the successful test drive, I jacked it up again to check the hub, and found that the wheel was locked tight by the brakes I had just adjusted 10 minutes before. I spent a good hour adjusting, driving, adjusting, driving, and finally just gave up. The pedal travel is slightly better than it was, but all this does is serve to make me want to change to disc brakes.

So... over to that other thread to build my shopping list.
 

Red90

Well-known member
Yes, RTC3511. You want an OEM one. Just to verify, this is the right wheel? What method are you using to set the bearings?
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Right rear wheel.

I tighten it down till I feel some resistance, spin it back and forth, do this a few times. Then back it off and tighten hand tight, test spin, then lock it down. When I did the left side after buying it, I tried it with a torque wrench and had to redo it a few days later. When I did it by feel, it seemed to find the sweet spot better, and I've not touched that wheel in almost five years.

Either way, I'm going to check it this evening after driving about 30 miles, and I'm buying the parts to swap to discs ASAP. I just hope I can have the swap done in the next two weeks before school is out for summer. One of these days I need to actually get out and camp. Been able to use the truck once per year for the last four years.
 

Red90

Well-known member
We have probably been over that, but you have verified the shoes are all in the right spots. Leading to front, trailing to rear?
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Interesting.... I was just focused on setting the bearings and didn't think about making sure the brakes were the right way around. If I can get off work early enough, do the work on the rental house that I need to, then get back home and ready to hit the road by 7:00, I'll pull the drum again and have a look. I've got about 4 hours to do 8 hours of work.......
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Pretty sure this image does show that the shoes are on correctly:

7589B7D4-4E6E-4DB8-A702-FCF34A17120A.jpeg
 

Red90

Well-known member
Yes, that shoe is. That does not mean the others are. Just worth checking. The workshop manual instructions are quite vague and it is easy to get them mixed up and that prevents proper adjusting.
 
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